Rust in barrel

[Britsmoothy]

Unless I was taught wrong ? "You can't make nor destroy matter".

You can care about what matters though!

 

[LME]

You can care about what matters though!

I do care about what matters! I also know that some people are confused as to how to clean their weapons because the right way can hide in a sea of wrong ways. I see a few instruction on how to clean a weapon that makes me cringe! If a person doesn't have a little knowledge on the subject they arn't able to sort the right way from the wrong way and continue to have a problem.

 

[Robby]

Unless I was taught wrong ? "You can't make nor destroy matter".

Well, I don't see how that relates, but what the heck. Their purpose has nothing to do with physics, its' all about altering reality.
Robby

 

[Brokennock]

I do care about what matters! I also know that some people are confused as to how to clean their weapons because the right way can hide in a sea of wrong ways. I see a few instruction on how to clean a weapon that makes me cringe! If a person doesn't have a little knowledge on the subject they arn't able to sort the right way from the wrong way and continue to have a problem.

So,,,, there is only one "right way"?
Your way, I assume.

 

[LME]

So,,,, there is only one "right way"?
Your way, I assume.

There are several ways but I know for a fact that there are more wrong ways than right!

 

[Brokennock]

There are several ways but I know for a fact that there are more wrong ways than right!

I can agree with that

I figure if it gets the gun clean with no ill effects and it stays rust free until the next outing, it is a "right way."

 

[LME]

I can agree with that

I figure if it gets the gun clean with no ill effects and it stays rust free until the next outing, it is a "right way."

I some times don't get by message detailed enough and leave a question mark in the minds of others. I have ran into most of the problems I hear others complain about. It worried me to no end. Ironically all my weapons modern and and old are still shooting well? I do check my weapons every now and then to make sure nothing has gone awry!

 

[Nor Cal Mikie]

For what it's worth, have seen tests that show ATF to be one of the better things at preventing rust.

 

[Howard Pippin]

I some times don't get by message detailed enough and leave a question mark in the minds of others. I have ran into most of the problems I hear others complain about. It worried me to no end. Ironically all my weapons modern and and old are still shooting well? I do check my weapons every now and then to make sure nothing has gone awry!

There's no doubt most firearms last a long time. I have more than one unmentionable that's older than I am, that means they could be 83 or even better. They still work, are cleaned just when used without any rust problem on those or the newer ones including the muzzleloaders. A large difference is where you live and how damp your climate, is to create rust. When I shoot my flintlock I never get visible moisture in the pan from moisture in the air, and I understand some do. I believe if I lived where the moisture content in the air was excessively high, I would build a gun room that had a dehumidifier in it, to make it very dry. I believe you would have only minor problems with the wood from being too dry, but it would solve a lot of rust problems on your firearms. I own some that haven't been shot or cleaned in 40 years.
Squint

 

[Nor Cal Mikie]

Worked with a Guy that was from Montana. Mentioned they ran "Swamp Coolers" to keep their furniture from drying out from lack of humidity in the air. That's DRY!!

 

[Crown_Pointer]

...snip
Your barrel has salt corrosion. Not plain iron oxidisation. Corrosion from the salts produced upon combustion of black powder.

The only thing that dissolves salts readily is hot water. The only thing that can readily absorb or carry salt and form a barrier between iron and atmpheric moisture content is animal or vegetable fats and oils.
It's up to you but until you adopt this practice your just gonna go around and around and around and still have visible evidence of corrosion!
Good luck.

I used to do this (and the hot water is good) but it didn't take me long to realize when I put the barrel into a bucket of hot water I was now trying to clean it with a brine solution. The answer, for me, was steam cleaning. It's the cat's *** and I've never looked back. I bought a Pedersoli Turbo steam cleaner and made a mobile stand for it (it also carries my cleaning rods, brushes, jags - see PDF). I additionally made a stand for a Parks Bicycle service clamp which I use to hold the barrel (muzzle slightly downward). I have since made RTV silicone jaw liners for the clamp to protect from the heat but originally I just used a piece of rad hose split in half. The plastic jaw liners that come with a Parks clamp will melt so you have to deal with this (via rad hose or silicone).

I've also made some "musket workbenches" (see picture) which I use to disassemble the gun (barrel off & lock removed) in quick order. While the Turbo cleaner is heating up. After dissassembly I put the barrel into the clamp - muzzle down. When the steamer is up to temp you slowly insert the long steam lance into the barrel while pressing the trigger. High pressure steam comes radially & axially out the lance tip as you insert it slowly up to the breach then slowly withdraw it. At first a river of black water will come running out as you do it. I hold it a bit at the breach so it's face is clean and watch the mini-mushroom cloud come out the flash hole so it's clean too. I want a spotless combustion area. With a second go the water will be clean. I do it a third time just for good measure. I also hit the barrel externally in the pan area to clean that face too. Remember that you are continually cleaning/flushing/rinsing with hot distilled dryish steam (not wet brine). When I run a patch in it comes out spotlessly white. WHISTLE CLEAN. While it's still toasty hot I will patch it good several times with bore butter. It melts but I know it's going into the pores of the metal as much as possible (butter on hot toast?). I leave the barrel there in the clamp to cool and move on to the lock.

After changing over to the short steam lance I put on the gloves and steam clean the lock, inside & out and in every nook and cranny (easy with pressure steam) then hit it good with the aerosol oil. After that it's back to the musket workbench to put it all together again and give it a good external oil "massage". Anyway that's what I do.

The steam cleaner is a little pricey but it's very well made and IMHO you only pay for quality once. I made/designed the ancillary items because it was fun, it would serve me well and, in the end, the cleaning is now easy & flawless. BTW the PDF doesn't show the gloves but they go on the wood paddles on stand column as can be seen in the photo.

 

[JCKelly]

Salt water rusts steel. Hot salt water rusts it faster. ALL store-bought soap contains salt. Salt, NaCl, sodium chloride, the stuff that rusts steel. Been that way since JFK cleaned up the environment.

 

[Britsmoothy]

I used to do this (and the hot water is good) but it didn't take me long to realize when I put the barrel into a bucket of hot water I was now trying to clean it with a brine solution. The answer, for me, was steam cleaning. It's the cat's *** and I've never looked back. I bought a Pedersoli Turbo steam cleaner and made a mobile stand for it (it also carries my cleaning rods, brushes, jags - see PDF). I additionally made a stand for a Parks Bicycle service clamp which I use to hold the barrel (muzzle slightly downward). I have since made RTV silicone jaw liners for the clamp to protect from the heat but originally I just used a piece of rad hose split in half. The plastic jaw liners that come with a Parks clamp will melt so you have to deal with this (via rad hose or silicone).

I've also made some "musket workbenches" (see picture) which I use to disassemble the gun (barrel off & lock removed) in quick order. While the Turbo cleaner is heating up. After dissassembly I put the barrel into the clamp - muzzle down. When the steamer is up to temp you slowly insert the long steam lance into the barrel while pressing the trigger. High pressure steam comes radially & axially out the lance tip as you insert it slowly up to the breach then slowly withdraw it. At first a river of black water will come running out as you do it. I hold it a bit at the breach so it's face is clean and watch the mini-mushroom cloud come out the flash hole so it's clean too. I want a spotless combustion area. With a second go the water will be clean. I do it a third time just for good measure. I also hit the barrel externally in the pan area to clean that face too. Remember that you are continually cleaning/flushing/rinsing with hot distilled dryish steam (not wet brine). When I run a patch in it comes out spotlessly white. WHISTLE CLEAN. While it's still toasty hot I will patch it good several times with bore butter. It melts but I know it's going into the pores of the metal as much as possible (butter on hot toast?). I leave the barrel there in the clamp to cool and move on to the lock.

After changing over to the short steam lance I put on the gloves and steam clean the lock, inside & out and in every nook and cranny (easy with pressure steam) then hit it good with the aerosol oil. After that it's back to the musket workbench to put it all together again and give it a good external oil "massage". Anyway that's what I do.

The steam cleaner is a little pricey but it's very well made and IMHO you only pay for quality once. I made/designed the ancillary items because it was fun, it would serve me well and, in the end, the cleaning is now easy & flawless. BTW the PDF doesn't show the gloves but they go on the wood paddles on stand column as can be seen in the photo.

Very impressive.
I just pour the dirty water away and use some fresh though.
Your set up is however very impressive

 

[Britsmoothy]

I do care about what matters! I also know that some people are confused as to how to clean their weapons because the right way can hide in a sea of wrong ways. I see a few instruction on how to clean a weapon that makes me cringe! If a person doesn't have a little knowledge on the subject they arn't able to sort the right way from the wrong way and continue to have a problem.

I was jesting partner

 

[SDSmlf]

For what it's worth, have seen tests that show ATF to be one of the better things at preventing rust.

Do you mind sharing the tests?

 

[LME]

I used to do this (and the hot water is good) but it didn't take me long to realize when I put the barrel into a bucket of hot water I was now trying to clean it with a brine solution. The answer, for me, was steam cleaning. It's the cat's *** and I've never looked back. I bought a Pedersoli Turbo steam cleaner and made a mobile stand for it (it also carries my cleaning rods, brushes, jags - see PDF). I additionally made a stand for a Parks Bicycle service clamp which I use to hold the barrel (muzzle slightly downward). I have since made RTV silicone jaw liners for the clamp to protect from the heat but originally I just used a piece of rad hose split in half. The plastic jaw liners that come with a Parks clamp will melt so you have to deal with this (via rad hose or silicone).

I've also made some "musket workbenches" (see picture) which I use to disassemble the gun (barrel off & lock removed) in quick order. While the Turbo cleaner is heating up. After dissassembly I put the barrel into the clamp - muzzle down. When the steamer is up to temp you slowly insert the long steam lance into the barrel while pressing the trigger. High pressure steam comes radially & axially out the lance tip as you insert it slowly up to the breach then slowly withdraw it. At first a river of black water will come running out as you do it. I hold it a bit at the breach so it's face is clean and watch the mini-mushroom cloud come out the flash hole so it's clean too. I want a spotless combustion area. With a second go the water will be clean. I do it a third time just for good measure. I also hit the barrel externally in the pan area to clean that face too. Remember that you are continually cleaning/flushing/rinsing with hot distilled dryish steam (not wet brine). When I run a patch in it comes out spotlessly white. WHISTLE CLEAN. While it's still toasty hot I will patch it good several times with bore butter. It melts but I know it's going into the pores of the metal as much as possible (butter on hot toast?). I leave the barrel there in the clamp to cool and move on to the lock.

After changing over to the short steam lance I put on the gloves and steam clean the lock, inside & out and in every nook and cranny (easy with pressure steam) then hit it good with the aerosol oil. After that it's back to the musket workbench to put it all together again and give it a good external oil "massage". Anyway that's what I do.

The steam cleaner is a little pricey but it's very well made and IMHO you only pay for quality once. I made/designed the ancillary items because it was fun, it would serve me well and, in the end, the cleaning is now easy & flawless. BTW the PDF doesn't show the gloves but they go on the wood paddles on stand column as can be seen in the photo.

I haven't tried steam cleaning my weapons but I have used steam to clean dirty parts in the machine shop mostly engines, machinery and all sorts of heavy equiptment. High pressure steam has never failed to remove what ever it came in contact with. Why on earth didn't I use steam to clean my weapons? You have made me feel like a imbecile, well a little bit! LOL!

 

[Crown_Pointer]

I used to do this (and the hot water is good) but it didn't take me long to realize when I put the barrel into a bucket of hot water I was now trying to clean it with a brine solution. The answer, for me, was steam cleaning. It's the cat's *** and I've never looked back. I bought a Pedersoli Turbo steam cleaner and made a snip.../QUOTE]

Me again replying to my own post. I cobbled a movie together of the first time I used the steam cleaner. I've had a person here put it up on you-tube (I don't have an account) since I couldn't upload the whole movie here. This was filmed before I made my stand etc when I saw it would be worthwhile. This short clip should give you an inkling of how wonderful it is to clean this way.

 

[FishDFly]

Unless I was taught wrong ? "You can't make nor destroy matter".

You might not, but rust can.

 

[Omahkapi'si]

I have not shot my Frontier rifle for about a month, and that's the last cleaning it had. I took it down this morning and checked the barrel. Patch came out perfect; no issues at all.
My method:

• pour a little (few drops) TC#13 bore cleaner in the barrel
• add hot water
• up & down a few times with a bore mop
• repeat once or twice
• flush with alcohol
• patch 'til dry
• lube with a Ballistol soaked patch

Works for me every time. Just my method, others have some good ones too. I run a little TC#13 down the hole after I take the nipple out too. Then flush with alcohol as well. This works for black powder, Triple 7 and Pyrodex although I find Pyrodex takes a little extra time with the water and bore mopping. Just my experience. Good luck with yours.

 

[SDSmlf]

pour a little (few drops) TC#13 bore cleaner in the barrel

As others have said, everyone has a cleaning process that they like. When I tried TC#13 it was like rust in a bottle, at least for me. It might act as a surfactant when mixed with water, but I would not leave TC#13 full strength on blued steel.

I’m with the hot water crowd for deep cleaning blackpowder residue. We are on county water here, but use a whole house filter that is supposed to remove chlorine and other nasties. May explain why flash rust, even with hot water, is not a problem.