rust prevention products

[pinemarten]

I found this extensive study on 46 different lubricants useful for gun protection. It tested the products for rust prevention and other properties in a very controlled manner. I don't know if this has been discussed here before (I couldn't find it in a search). Took place back in 2014. The three most protective products were SIGNIFICANTLY better than the vast majority. They were Froglube, Hornady One Shot, and WD-40 Specialist. Some of the metal plates were solid rust while the ones coated in these products seemed shiny after many days. The link to his study is: http://ronkulas.proboards.com/thread/274/review-comparison-gun-care-products?page=1&scrollTo=711

Anyone ever use any of these products? Are they ok for Blackpowder guns? I have been using Barricade up to this point, but like to stay open to new (new to me at least!) ideas...

Dan

 

[pinemarten]

I don't know if that last link works (I tested and it didn't for me). Here is another place the study is listed:
http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

Dan

 

[Billnpatti]

Of the three, the only one that I have used is the Frog Lube. It seems to be great stuff on modern guns and the outside of muzzleloaders. The guns on which I have used it have had no rust problems, but none have been exposed to extreme weather conditions and all are stored in a gun vault with a controlled low humidity atmosphere.

Frog Lube has a very high lubricity coefficient and when applied according to the instructions is excellent stuff on the slides of all of my 1911 handguns and the bolts of my suppository guns. On the other hand, its high lubricity makes it too slick to be used as a patch or bullet lube in a muzzleloader and I would not use it in my muzzleloader bore. It may well protect it from rust but it may make the bore too slick and reduce its accuracy. I know it sounds funny but it is a proven fact that you can have a bore or lube that is too slick.

Dutch Schoultz discusses the idea of a lube being too slick in his publication. When a patch or bullet lube is too slick, it will allow the projectile to start moving down the bore before the burning powder has reached maximum breach pressure. This results in varying breach pressures which gives varying muzzle velocities. The varying muzzle velocities translates into poor accuracy.

So, if you want to use Frog Lube on your muzzleloader, it is great stuff on the outside, not so good on the inside. I will add that when I have used up my supply of Frog Lube, I will not buy any more because it is just too pricy for what it offers in rust protection. You can get good rust protection from products that are fare less expensive. But, that's just me. I'm a tight old fart. :haha:

 

[don hepler]

I thought Hornady One Shot, was a dry lube used when reloading to lube the case prior to sizing.

I've often wondered how it would be as a patch lube.
I have some One Shot, I might give it a try.

Hornady, might have a different lube with the same
name.

I have tried many products and reached one conclusion. The cleaning process is critical to preventing rust, regardless of type of lube. However, "prevention" is the best way to protect the gun. Check them often, and keep a record of what works.

 

[Billnpatti]

That was a most informative and well designed test. If I were to make any changes, it would be in the way the water displacement test was conducted. I would have used a container of water to which a drop of a surfactant such as dish soap had been added to break the surface tension of the water and insure a good coating of water onto the test subject. Then I would have removed the test subject from the water, allowed it to drain for a few seconds and then applied the test material to see if it did, indeed, cause the water to bead up and be removed from the test subject.

After having read this test, I have changed my mind about WD-40 as a rust preventive but only the WD-40 Specialist. I still have reservations about regular WD-40 as a good rust preventive. I still believe it to be an excellent water displacer, however. From this test, it is obvious that WD-40 Specialist and Frog Lube are excellent rust preventive products. Based on cost, my choice will be the WD-40 Specialist.

 

[coloradoclyde]

I'd take that test with a big grain of salt.....also my favorite preventative gun treatment wasn't on the list....G96

 

[coloradoclyde]

I have tried many products and reached one conclusion. The cleaning process is critical to preventing rust, regardless of type of lube. However, "prevention" is the best way to protect the gun. Check them often, and keep a record of what works.

That's is the most important " take away"

 

[Billnpatti]

I'd take that test with a big grain of salt.....also my favorite preventative gun treatment wasn't on the list....G96

Check again, Clyde, G96 was included in the test and came in about in the middle of the pack.

 

[Billnpatti]

This is an addendum to one of my previous posts where I stated "From this test, it is obvious that WD-40 Specialist and Frog Lube are excellent rust preventive products. Based on cost, my choice will be the WD-40 Specialist." I looked up WD-40 Specialist and found that there are two kinds, one is a silicone based oil while the other is a lithium grease also containing silicone. I assume that in the test the silicone oil form of WD-40 Specialist was the one that he used. I will say this, it is obviously a great rust inhibitor and I will use it, but....since it is a silicone oil, it will never find its way into the bore of any of any of my guns whether they be muzzleloaders or modern. Silicone oil does not belong in the bore of a gun. I will use it on all other equipment and on the outside of my guns but never in the bore.

 

[Black Jack]

What are your objections to silicone oil?

 

[coloradoclyde]

I'd take that test with a big grain of salt.....also my favorite preventative gun treatment wasn't on the list....G96

Check again, Clyde, G96 was included in the test and came in about in the middle of the pack.

The product they tested was G96 synthetic Milspec CLP...This is not the product I was referring to..
I was referring to G96 gun treatment. Two completely different animals.... Like I said Take it wit a lot of salt....

 

[Brokennock]

I cry :bull: upon this study. I myself, and a few others at the shooting range I work at tried that FrogLube excrement. Nothing but problems. As far as rust goes. I tried it on a tactical folder I carry i.w.b. that had some freckles of rust on the side of the blade nearest my body. The rust issue got worse. One fellow's gun was stuck together when he tried to disassemble for cleaning.
Who funded he study?

Oh, and, f.w.i.w. the business practices of the current FrogLube people are extremely shady. They are not the originators of the product....

 

[sidelock]

Don't care what others think, 3 in 1 oil is the best and cheapest.

 

[coloradoclyde]

I cry :bull: upon this study. I myself, and a few others at the shooting range I work at tried that FrogLube excrement. Nothing but problems. As far as rust goes. I tried it on a tactical folder I carry i.w.b. that had some freckles of rust on the side of the blade nearest my body. The rust issue got worse. One fellow's gun was stuck together when he tried to disassemble for cleaning.
Who funded he study?

Oh, and, f.w.i.w. the business practices of the current FrogLube people are extremely shady. They are not the originators of the product....

Yep!...my salt shaker is empty.....I think frog lube was invented in Iraq...

 

[rijerolmon]

I believe that you are correct with the 3 in 1 oil. I was a bit surprised to see "SAE 20 Motor Oil" printed on the front of my newest can. Maybe I will buy it by the quart. :metoo:

 

[Archer 756]

:hmm: Just a note that motor oil has wax in it. Should note be used for firearms due to the wax.

 

[Elnathan]

Something he didn't think to test - animal fats. My (involuntary) experiment with hydrogenated lard as a gun preservative indicates that, despite its tendency to turn rust-red as it dries, it preserves the metal underneath quite well. Doesn't stink, either...

 

[Billnpatti]

What are your objections to silicone oil?

In my more ignorant years, as an experiment,I tried silicone oil as a patch lubricant. I noticed a white residue in my bore along with the usual crud. I later found out that the white "stuff" was fine silica powder. When silicone is burned in air or oxygen, it forms solid silica (silicon dioxide) as a white powder, char, and various gases. The powder is sometimes called silica fume. As you know, silica is abrasive and I do not want to put abrasives in my bore unless I am polishing it intentionally.

 

[RonRC]

I've followed corrosion tests for many years and saved all the old tests in Word files. I've looked at the result for all the well known products based on oil, grease, wax, etc.
There are several sites with test reports:
http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html
http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html
http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/corrosion/corrosion2.html
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid...inic-Knowing-the-Limits-of-Rust-Preventatives

Several brands and types keep coming out on top:
1.Breakfree CLP (originally invented to prevent flashrusting of parts prepped for plating)
2.Eezox (very toxic-contains Trichloroethylene)
3.Corrosion X
4. Hoppe's Gun Grease, RIG grease, Outers Grease (need to be applied thick to be as effective as the afformentioned products)Fluid Film (a waxy material)
5. Birchwood Casey Sheath/Barricade
6. Outers Gun Oil


Ron

 

[coloradoclyde]

As a rust and corrosion preventative, I'm still going with Fluid Film....It has the widest range of industry applications and the best success among them collectively...
Fluid Film is used in the Military, Navy, Aviation, Automotive, Aerospace, Agricultural and other industries......under the widest and most demanding conditions...

It's also non-toxic.