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Bo dunlap

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I just finished 66 pages of muzzleloader advice on another site. There was a lot of debate on the subject of cleaning and how to store you rifle .

I've used gun oil in the past and always ran solvent patches through it before firing . Now I'm reading that's maybe not the best way of doing things.

On one of the post someone said after cleaning with soap and water and flushing with clear water they dried the bore and ran olive oil patches through it before storing it

Has anyone tried this . if so how did it work.
If it works it should eliminate the worries of tar build up if you miss some of the gun oil in your bore.

Thanks.
 
Sounds like what you are doing is fine. Many people do it that way but there are allot of different ways and I'm not going to say any is wrong as long as you are getting your gun clean and no rust. You're not going to get the tar buildup just from a little gun oil. It's the repeated use of petroleum products while firing layering with the fowling and heat causing the tar build up. You are running solvent first to also remove it which many people do here.

I don't do that method myself. I clean with hopps9 and dry and then lube with WD40 but I also live in a very dry climate so I don't have to worry about rust as much as most do.
 
I live in a very humid place, After a good cleaning I give the bore a good wipe with a soaked Barricade patch, an then I still check it every 3 to 5 days and give it a wipe with another Barricade patch. I do the same for the outside also.
 
+ One for Barricade here. I have had very good luck with it, and can highly recommend it. At least it works in Alabama.
 
Rifleman1776 said:
I am sure you have discovered others methods run from doing nothing to using witches brew. And lots in between. What you are doing is fine, if it works, stick with it.

:hatsoff: Another vote for witches' brew!
 
I use a squirt of 409 cleaner and hot water. Follow up with dry patches, an alcohol patch and Barricade. For long-term storage, I use Rig instead of the Barricade.
 
I haven't used olive oil in my guns bores but I have used it on my wok's.

It is moderately good at keeping them rust free but if left too long between oilings rust will begin to form.

For my guns steel parts, including the bores I use Birchwood Casey Barricade.

It is excellent at keeping rust away and although it is petroleum based, it drys to a non oily coating that will not need wiping before loading and firing a muzzleloader. In other words, once dry, it does not create any fouling or tarlike stuff in the bore.
 
Well i been using olive but switched to coconut oil
Why it is cheaper now i been using this for last 3 years on both my guns and cannons but i live in the desert witch dry climate
I also use crisco beezwax mix s a lube when needed
 
Zonie said:
I haven't used olive oil in my guns bores but I have used it on my wok's.

It is moderately good at keeping them rust free but if left too long between oilings rust will begin to form.

For my guns steel parts, including the bores I use Birchwood Casey Barricade.

It is excellent at keeping rust away and although it is petroleum based, it drys to a non oily coating that will not need wiping before loading and firing a muzzleloader. In other words, once dry, it does not create any fouling or tarlike stuff in the bore.

Same here. It works. :thumbsup:
 
As has been said, "Cleanliness is next to Godliness." If you are going to keep your gun from rusing and/or corroding, you must get it absolutely clean. Warm soapy water is the answer for this. Then it must be absolutely dry. Several dry patches followed by a good spray with WD-40 will take care of making it dry. Next, you must keep air and moisture away from the metal. To do this, wipe away all of the WD-40 (it is just a moisture displacer and a poor rust preventer) It will have done its work and must go to make way for the real rust preventer on clean metal surfaces.....Barricade.

The above is the answer to keeping your guns clean, working properly and rust-free.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Synthetic motor oil, automatic transmission fluid and air tool oil..... What do they all have in common?

Anti-oxidizer additives to PREVENT rust.

Car engines get hot and then cool. That creates condensation. Next time you warm the engine, the condensation evaporates and goes out the PCV valve. Stop the engine and let it sit overnight - the process happens again.

You ever seen the inside of a modern car engine with 250,000 miles that's been run on synthetic oil since the day it was driven off the showroom floor? I have seen more than most folks. The engines are NOT rusted.

Same applies to a transmission. How many automatic transmissions have you seen with rust inside? I've seen a LOT of transmissions torn apart. If they were serviced regularly (fluid changes), they are NOT rusty inside.

Air tools don't rust either. If you treat them with proper air tool oil or ATF mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits - they DO NOT rust.

Is it period correct? Nope. You want period correct or a shiny barrel? :idunno:

Don't make me get out the bore light and prove it to ya. :nono:
 
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