Just noticed that I have rust on my 1858 after only one use. I spent half an hour cleaning it, too. The rust isn't located anywhere vital, but I don't like seeing it already. The only thing I can think of is I left a little too much bore gel on afterward, because the rust is located where there was no open air contact (between the front of the cylinder on the steel frame, and behind the cylinder in the middle of the nipples). I'm going to try to remove it with Hoppe's No. 9 type liquid and a bristle brush. Any thoughts?
Rust
- Thread starter Erik550c
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Spray WD-40 and let it sit an hour or so....should come off easy. The when cleaning dry well with a bunch of ear swabs (Q-tip types bought at dollar store is what I use). Use the swabs to apply barricade or whatever yer using for oil. Good to catch it early, if you didn't see it in months it would be tougher to address.
hanshi
Cannon
RUST? I'm against it. :hmm:
Rust, it never sleeps.
Like Az wrote, soak in WD 40 & then what I do is brush with a fine brass wire brush like the type sold for cleaning suede shoes.
It brushes right away seeing as how it has only just formed & the fine brass brush does not scratch the blueing.
O.
Like Az wrote, soak in WD 40 & then what I do is brush with a fine brass wire brush like the type sold for cleaning suede shoes.
It brushes right away seeing as how it has only just formed & the fine brass brush does not scratch the blueing.
O.
What is bore jell??
Really you do not need anything but water, warm is fine. Add a little soap and then use a water displacing oil [wd-40] then a preservative oil or grease.
Cheap and effective. Also check the gun 2 days later to see how it worked. Yours did not.
I have used the 1/3.1/3,1/3 formula for 20 + years on competition guns. It works for clean. Murphy's oil soap, denatured alcohol, drug store peroxide.
Many here will think I am a piranha with the peroxide and causing flash rust. What is flash rust??
Immediately after soaking and wiping the bore dry I saturate in WD-40, wait a couple of minutes and wipe dry. Then coat the bore and every where I cleaned with RIG grease.
I do this at the end of every day of shooting. To shoot and compete the next day 1 patch of denatured alcohol cleans the bore for the fouling shot of powder only.
On the last match of the season I clean them the same way and have never looked back as the next season they are the same as shot the day before.
Really you do not need anything but water, warm is fine. Add a little soap and then use a water displacing oil [wd-40] then a preservative oil or grease.
Cheap and effective. Also check the gun 2 days later to see how it worked. Yours did not.
I have used the 1/3.1/3,1/3 formula for 20 + years on competition guns. It works for clean. Murphy's oil soap, denatured alcohol, drug store peroxide.
Many here will think I am a piranha with the peroxide and causing flash rust. What is flash rust??
Immediately after soaking and wiping the bore dry I saturate in WD-40, wait a couple of minutes and wipe dry. Then coat the bore and every where I cleaned with RIG grease.
I do this at the end of every day of shooting. To shoot and compete the next day 1 patch of denatured alcohol cleans the bore for the fouling shot of powder only.
On the last match of the season I clean them the same way and have never looked back as the next season they are the same as shot the day before.
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2013
- Messages
- 20,091
- Reaction score
- 1,025
Obviously something that doesn't work.....nhmoose said:
Most people have the wrong attitude about cleaning...They think you need some special made, secret, just for the purpose, expensive, magical elixir made by secret monks high up on a remote mountain top...
They look for magical shortcuts instead of just making sure their gun is CLEAN.
If there is any trace of what you used to clean your gun left on your gun than your gun is not clean......
it's just that simple....
colorado clyde said:
:applause:
Don't know how many times it's been said, BP arms absolutely will not tolerate laziness like modern arms with cleaning, period. I use ballistol and water along with my low tech fixin wax, no rust, no problems, no gripes. Black powder arms have been around allot longer than modern arms... They certainly have survived the test of time and IMO modern "wonder lube cleaners" are just not needed, nor are they a substitute for some elbow grease.
Archer 756
40 Cal.
:td: WD40 :thumbsup: G96
That should work. These gents have recommended a few other good methods.
Muzzleloaders are lots different than modern weapons, mainly in that the propellant is so highly corrosive that cleaning is a very important task. Once you get the hang of it, you'll find it to be a wonderful hobby.
Kudos to you for climbing a steep learning curve, checking your weapon to ensure it was cleaned properly. You'll do just fine.
There are a bunch of posts wherein we've hashed out discussions on cleaning - give a gander through this topic and you'll see them. They tend to be kind of long!
:hatsoff:
Muzzleloaders are lots different than modern weapons, mainly in that the propellant is so highly corrosive that cleaning is a very important task. Once you get the hang of it, you'll find it to be a wonderful hobby.
Kudos to you for climbing a steep learning curve, checking your weapon to ensure it was cleaned properly. You'll do just fine.
There are a bunch of posts wherein we've hashed out discussions on cleaning - give a gander through this topic and you'll see them. They tend to be kind of long!
:hatsoff:
SgtErv said:
:rotf:
Billnpatti
Cannon
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2008
- Messages
- 7,340
- Reaction score
- 44
If it is light surface rust, it is not hard to remove. Use a penetrating oil on it. Let is sit for an hour or so and then wipe the rust off. If it is more than surface rust, you can get it off by using motor oil and 4 ought steel wool.
As an added extra, here are a couple of good videos on disassembly and cleaning of an 1858 Remington.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qtMkLGdZA4 (Part 1)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=057mS44KLCA (Part 2)
And here is a video on a product that Colorado Clyde put me onto. It sounds like an excellent product. I have not tried it yet but it is high on my "to do" list.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JJ_esqxCKA
As an added extra, here are a couple of good videos on disassembly and cleaning of an 1858 Remington.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qtMkLGdZA4 (Part 1)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=057mS44KLCA (Part 2)
And here is a video on a product that Colorado Clyde put me onto. It sounds like an excellent product. I have not tried it yet but it is high on my "to do" list.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JJ_esqxCKA
Last edited by a moderator:
SgtErv said:
Actually the powder isn't corrosive, its the fouling left after firing the gun.
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2007
- Messages
- 542
- Reaction score
- 52
I've found this to be an effective product:
http://www.big45metalcleaner.com
http://www.big45metalcleaner.com
Last edited by a moderator:
Greg Blackburn
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2012
- Messages
- 900
- Reaction score
- 395
I used to shoot the crap out of my CVA caplock. I mostly shot Pyrodex but I have shot black powder out of it too.
I cleaned it with a synthetic rod and cleaning jag. Bucket of scalding hot water and soap, cleaning patch, beginning with nipple inserted and following with nipple and lock screw removed.
The "giant squirt gun" effect. After a few patches I would follow with another bucket of scalding rinse water.
Then dry patches and the blow dryer treatment. I'd then clean my nipple by patch and my finger nails. I'd do the same to the nipple screw threads.
I used to keep the barrel and nipple parts in plastic bags SOAKED in Rem Oil but later used Bore Butter.
My caplock was bought new in 1994 and it still looks new. I probably overdid it but I never had any rust. I plan to do the same with my new-to-me flintlocks.
I cleaned it with a synthetic rod and cleaning jag. Bucket of scalding hot water and soap, cleaning patch, beginning with nipple inserted and following with nipple and lock screw removed.
The "giant squirt gun" effect. After a few patches I would follow with another bucket of scalding rinse water.
Then dry patches and the blow dryer treatment. I'd then clean my nipple by patch and my finger nails. I'd do the same to the nipple screw threads.
I used to keep the barrel and nipple parts in plastic bags SOAKED in Rem Oil but later used Bore Butter.
My caplock was bought new in 1994 and it still looks new. I probably overdid it but I never had any rust. I plan to do the same with my new-to-me flintlocks.
I don't know what bore gel is. How ever lots of stuff we rub on steal will oxidize and brown, with out rust being underneath.colorado clyde said:
I like barristol, will use mink oil or lard, some like wd 40, or three in one, or rendered oil of knights templer done by cistercain monks in hidden trail monostary. However the plan is simple. Clean with water, dry, oil.
Similar threads
