Scraping and whiskering

[bioprof]

I used a scraper to do the final finishing on my current project. Do you need to whisker the stock if you use a fine scraper? For best results, do you burnish the wood before or after you stain it?

I've had so-so results on the finishing on my first two projects, but I'm beginning to think it was the sanding that messed things up. Scraping really seems to make the figure pop out.

 

[dry ball john]

I have had good results by whiskering the wood then using 4-0 steel wool, whisker again then with final,use very fine sand paper. we usually stain and finish off withfour or five coats of hand rubbed tru oil Good Luck John

 

[paulvallandigham]

It really depends on the particular wood. I have had maple stocks that were scraped, and didn't need to have the whiskers raised, and removed, because nothing came up when we wiped the stock with a wet rag. Ohers, you need to whisker, and then I use the scrapers again to remove the whiskers. Sand paper just seems to pull up more whiskers, until you start getting grooves where the soft wood is located. Same with using OOOO steel wool, but in that case, you can also get bits of steel wool embedded in the soft growth rings. Once I get to using scrapers I don't switch back to anything else.

As to burnishing, wait to do this after you stain the wood. And don't use a lot of force to burnish the stock. Soft woods collapse and form wavy lines , when you use too much force. Use a firm hand, but just rub the wood, so that it gets a slick shine to its surface. If you burnish before you stain, its much harder to get the wood to take the stain( Not impossible, but harder.)

( Hint: If you heat up the stain before applying it to the wood, it will stain even burnished wood. You may get some whiskers raised doing that, but light scraping( whisk the scraper like you are using a whisk broom to get lint off a jacket) , and then burnishing the wood again will resolve the issue.)

 

[ricklandes]

As to the 0000 "steel" wool I never use it on wood. I am really happy in those few areas I use a "wool" with the bronze wool from Brownells. Too many horror stories out there about imbedded steel rusting in a finish
:barf:

 

[Birddog6]

.

( Hint: If you heat up the stain before applying it to the wood, it will stain even burnished wood. You may get some whiskers raised doing that, but light scraping( whisk the scraper like you are using a whisk broom to get lint off a jacket) , and then burnishing the wood again will resolve the issue.)

A note of " Caution " on heating up the stain ...... allot of stains have Flamable ingredients in them & you could have a fire or explosion doing this....... :hmm:

 

[bucktales]

I also have used bronze wool rather than steel. I have also used 600 paper very lightly. I also use white vinegar for whiskering.

 

[frou frou]

What's the purpose of burnishing, and is it required?

Also what's the best solvent for whiskering? Water versus alcohol, etc.

 

Bioprof, after you scrape the wood smooth the next step is to use the aqua Fortis and heat blush as usual. Then instead of whiskering with steel wool, burnish the stock with burnishing tools that you can make and shape to your own liking and needs from deer antler. The deer antler tools should be finished slick with fine sandpaper or emery cloth. The slicker the tools the finer the finish on your rifle. After burnishing, the stock will look as shiny as if you already have it varnished. Next, sealer and burnish further with white Scotch-Brite pads between coats. I like to finish off with Tru-Oil rubbed in with my palm about three coats or so. You will know when it is done. BTW, this is a recipe for maple. Aqua Fortis will turn a walnut stock BLACK. I finish walnut with LMF sealer and Tru-Oil. I quit staining walnut.