Most of it is the government. They have made the licensing and rules so tuff, it's not worth the trouble for most.
Seeking Black Powder
- Thread starter Henry2357
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Henry2357
40 Cal.
It figures. Maybe things will change...for the good.
Well my order from Grafs has shipped so, should be good to go soon.
Well my order from Grafs has shipped so, should be good to go soon.
Mountain Joe said:
Government? Change for the good? :rotf:
Henry2357
40 Cal.
We can only hope.Mooman76 said:
Henry2357
40 Cal.
Now I'm having a tough time finding #11 caps in the area, I never figured that.
Wait until you try to find suitable flints!
At least there's no hazmat charge for flints.
At least there's no hazmat charge for flints.
Archer 756
40 Cal.
:surrender: here in Hudson Valley no problem with #11 caps, just $$$
I live in upstate NY but fortunately close to the PA border. I drive over to Sayre, PA which is 18 miles and get caps, black powder and supplies there at the Agway. Great place to shop.
:thumbsup:
Dave
:thumbsup:
Dave
Henry2357
40 Cal.
I guess I should have order caps when I ordered my powder. Dang.
Henry2357
40 Cal.
Mountain Joe said:
Take that back, not having a problems finding casps, I must have called a place or 2 that did not have them and figured it would be trouble. A couple other places around here have lots of them, picked up 200 RWS 1075 plus #11's, decided against the CCI caps due to a bit of feedback here. Soooooo Sunday I shoot. :applause:
I use RWS 1075 caps & buy 1000 at a time.
Henry2357
40 Cal.
I have heard "read" that they can be a bit unreliable, please correct me if i'm wrong. Reviews at different places to buy, also.
Anyway, will try these RWS caps and decide if they will do the trick.
Anyway, will try these RWS caps and decide if they will do the trick.
Mountain Joe
IMO, it is very rare to find modern made caps that are poorly made by any company.
Remember when you read stories about people having problems with caps, there can be a lot of different reasons they are having problems.
Probably the biggest problem people have is the nipple cone size is too big for the cap they are using.
There is no set standard for the diameter of nipples or of caps so if the cone is a little large and the cap they are trying is a little small, the cap will not seat on the top of the nipple.
Often, changing to a different cap company can "fix" this problem if the new company's caps are slightly larger. A better fix IMO is to file the nipple cone down just a little until the cap fits like it should with the caps on hand.
Another problem can be caused if their gun has a damaged nipple where the top of the cone has been pounded into a small mushroom shape.
Caps placed on nipples like that often won't fire on the first hammer fall.
A weak mainspring in the lock can also cause the hammer to strike the cap with insufficient power to make it fire. (This is not common with new locks but some older CVA's and some Italian locks had this problem.)
Another thing that can cause problems on many modern factory made guns is the flame channel that connects the bottom of the nipple with the bore is partially filled with old fouling or it has oil in it because the owner over-oiled the bore and stored the gun butt down.
Then, there are the people who leave the old fired cap on the nipple while they are loading the next round.
This will keep fresh powder from blowing back to the bottom of the nipple where it can instantly ignite when the cap fires.
In other words, there are a lot of reasons a cap won't fire other than the company that made them.
Pyrodex and other synthetic powders have a higher ignition point than black powder. This, coupled with any of the problems noted above often leads to misfires.
If you are shooting one of these synthetic powders you might find the "Magnum" or RWS caps work a little better.
IMO, it is very rare to find modern made caps that are poorly made by any company.
Remember when you read stories about people having problems with caps, there can be a lot of different reasons they are having problems.
Probably the biggest problem people have is the nipple cone size is too big for the cap they are using.
There is no set standard for the diameter of nipples or of caps so if the cone is a little large and the cap they are trying is a little small, the cap will not seat on the top of the nipple.
Often, changing to a different cap company can "fix" this problem if the new company's caps are slightly larger. A better fix IMO is to file the nipple cone down just a little until the cap fits like it should with the caps on hand.
Another problem can be caused if their gun has a damaged nipple where the top of the cone has been pounded into a small mushroom shape.
Caps placed on nipples like that often won't fire on the first hammer fall.
A weak mainspring in the lock can also cause the hammer to strike the cap with insufficient power to make it fire. (This is not common with new locks but some older CVA's and some Italian locks had this problem.)
Another thing that can cause problems on many modern factory made guns is the flame channel that connects the bottom of the nipple with the bore is partially filled with old fouling or it has oil in it because the owner over-oiled the bore and stored the gun butt down.
Then, there are the people who leave the old fired cap on the nipple while they are loading the next round.
This will keep fresh powder from blowing back to the bottom of the nipple where it can instantly ignite when the cap fires.
In other words, there are a lot of reasons a cap won't fire other than the company that made them.
Pyrodex and other synthetic powders have a higher ignition point than black powder. This, coupled with any of the problems noted above often leads to misfires.
If you are shooting one of these synthetic powders you might find the "Magnum" or RWS caps work a little better.
rodwha
58 Cal.
Granted the CCI caps I tried were the #11 magnums and didn't fit my nipples requiring an additional strike all too often. But they always fired.
My TOTW nipples state they are designed for CCI #11 caps (standard) but found Rem #10's fit excellently. However I tend to find no less than 1 or 2 (or more) caps per tin missing the compound finding it at the bottom of the tin. They work great when they are whole...
I'd sure like to try standard CCI #11's...
My TOTW nipples state they are designed for CCI #11 caps (standard) but found Rem #10's fit excellently. However I tend to find no less than 1 or 2 (or more) caps per tin missing the compound finding it at the bottom of the tin. They work great when they are whole...
I'd sure like to try standard CCI #11's...
Henry2357
40 Cal.
Thanks guys, RWS are a tight fit but do seat all the way. We'll see what happens after the shot.
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2015
- Messages
- 5,069
- Reaction score
- 3,707
Interesting on the Remington caps. I had a tin from somewhere that I picked up second hand that had a bunch where the compound fell out. More recently, I purchase several tins of Remingtons and they all seem to be okay.
rodwha
58 Cal.
It's been no less than 2.5 years since I've bought caps. Still have maybe 5-8 tins left.
Archer 756
40 Cal.
:rotf: Remington :cursing: caps might be ok their 22's :cursing:
