Sharpening inletting tools

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Deerstalker

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Hi, Folk's. Lookin for some advise. I bought some tools to inlet my first rifle( first real build, my first kit was a CVA). I didn't buy expensive tools so that I can see if I really want to do this before I drop that much cash on the tools. The sets I bought are definately needing a proper sharpening. I have slip stones, diamond stones, etc.( the sharpening stones are the good ones) but I would like to hear how you sharpen your tools. Do you use a jig to keep the angle correct, what angle do you use, homemade or store bought jig, etc.
Thanks in advance,
Bryan
 
Some books will tell you that you need an exact angle. But I haven't found any wood that could tell the difference between a 22 degree and a 27 degree angle on a chisel. :haha:

I cut my chisel angles by eye on a benchtop vertical belt sander. I use a 80 grit belt that is worn down a bit. A new belt cuts very aggresively. Light on the touch, and watch the heat build up. Do not let the edge turn color!!!!! When the angle is cut, I use a hard Arkansas stone and then I use the strop and cutting comound mentioned above to polish the edge. And if you strop the edge often, you won't have to grind it for a very long time...just don't drop it on the concrete floor of the garage! :shocked2:

And this technique isn't the best for everyone...and some folks may slightly flame me for using it. It is just the method that works for me.
:v
 
Scary Sharp system.
[url] http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=scary+sharp+system[/url]
 
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if you have good stones with which you are comfortable, the only thing you need is a strop- i made mine out of an old piece of still thick leather, and i've cut grooves in it so that i can strop the inside of gouges, etc.

i use jewelers rouge (although some would say use this, that or nothing at all- experiment and see what works for you, after which don't put too much water in someone else's bucket) the advantage of the leather strop is that it's handy at the bench and therefore gets used often...

therein lies the secret.

good luck

MSW
 
Dearstalker, all the above advice is right on. Been doing all the above for many many yrs. These guys know it. :thumbsup:
 
Just a hint for strops that might help. I've been able to find several of those heavy, wide, leather belts that weight lifters and other use at garage sales and even flea markets. They are all 3/16" to over 1/4" thick and I have yet to pay more than $4.00 for one. I cut them up into strops, sometimes mounting them on a wooden paddle. I then get a block of polishing compound to load them with. I have made up several sets and given them to friends that do gun or furniture carving. Everyone seems to enjoy using them as much as I do using mine.
Just a thought.

Regards, Dave
 
No I am not gonna flame you but, I can imagine some "person" standing at the end of the sander (horizontal)wondering why there is a chisel sticking out their sternum! or worse looking down at the vertical one with a blade scewering their jaw to their rest of their head. kickback is a B#tch. Please dont say this doesnt happen I have seen some weird and wonderful, idiot tool accidents. Like the person who run their hand under the router to see if it had stopped. Result: a 1/2' rebate running accross the palm, a person who walked a plane off the the edge of door and accross their knee. Best one was from a table saw and a piece of 1/4 waste kicked back and through a guys side below the ribs and above the kidney, Very very lucky, he looked like a human skewer.
If I can suggest maybe a sentence of brief instruction to save those who think they know what they are doing when they actually dont?
But I agree they are a very handy tool for that sort of use, work great on wide plane blades.
 
Thanks for all the replies, fellas! Do most of you use some sort of jig to keep the angle true, or is it an eyeball affair? By the way, I never could really sharpen a knife with just a stone, and bought a Lansky sharpener, had "scary sharp" knives every since!
Bryan
 
"Lots of times now I think it's sharp but it's not. Old eyes need help"
_____________________

I don't even try to "see" if my chisels are sharp.
I just lay the flat side on my thumbnail at the tip, then raise the handle maybe a degree or two.
A short move of the chisel towards the base of the nail when using a sharp blade will instantly start to cut into the nail. :)
 
I do it by eye. I use sand paper that is measured in microns, got it from a wood carving club that I used to belong too. then go to a leather strop. Gets them nice and sharp. I also have the slip strop for my gouges and vening tools.
 
YOu cannot emphasize the use of a strop to hone a fine edge on chisels and other sharp instruments enough. Sharpening has almost become a lost " art", when it really is a science, with very verifiable principles, and techniques that can be repeated and produce the fine edges needed. A leather belt with any of the fine jeweler's rouges, or honing grits can keep that fine edge on the tool longer.

The secret of keeping the edge sharp is to not let it get too dull in the first instance. Some people want to use a chisel in a prying motion to dig out chips. The correct technique is to come in from the side and cut out the chip. The Prying motion first bends the fine edge, and then breaks it off, dulling the tool. It then takes much time and skill to bring that edge back up.If you have to push a chisel sideways to break it free of the wood, push the chisel sideways back and forth, in a line parrallel to the edge of the chisel, and not at 90 degrees to the edge. If you think of a chisel as a specialized, small bladed knife, and use it like a knife blade, you won't bung it up. If you want to pry something, use a pry-bar, or a screwdriver you don't mind sacrificing. Save the chisels.
 
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