Sharps failures. Suggestions?

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I'm an absolute acolyte of the Holy Black, SDS, and have been since I started with charcoal burners in the mid 70's. Good thought, though. Dave951, what caps do you use, and where can I get some?

Dusty, I'm going to take the block to my shop and see if I can get the clean-out screw out this weekend. Here at home I'm not having any luck, which bothers me as much as anything. I don't ignore my guns, and this is acting like I haven't had it out ever. I don't want to strip it.
 
If a good cleaning and clearing of the nipple and firing channel doesn't fix the problem, chances are pretty good the main spring is weak. IAB's aren't known for high quality.
 
I'm an absolute acolyte of the Holy Black, SDS, and have been since I started with charcoal burners in the mid 70's. Good thought, though. Dave951, what caps do you use, and where can I get some?

Dusty, I'm going to take the block to my shop and see if I can get the clean-out screw out this weekend. Here at home I'm not having any luck, which bothers me as much as anything. I don't ignore my guns, and this is acting like I haven't had it out ever. I don't want to strip it.
Use a well fitting driver, radius cut if you have one, as it might be rusty inside there. Some gentle pressure and raps to the driver with the hammer go a long way. So do heat and kroil. Good luck!
 
Fifteen shots at 50 yards, no miss fires.
@Phil Coffins - Is that your roundball and loose powdah load?
If a good cleaning and clearing of the nipple and firing channel doesn't fix the problem, chances are pretty good the main spring is weak.
Frankly ... that makes absolutely ZERO sense what with the musket cap being set off OK ...
 
@Phil Coffins - Is that your roundball and loose powdah load?

Frankly ... that makes absolutely ZERO sense what with the musket cap being set off OK ...
@Phil Coffins - Is that your roundball and loose powdah load?

Frankly ... that makes absolutely ZERO sense what with the musket cap being set off OK ...
I believe that was slugs and loose powder, but they could have been paper cartridges. My memory isn’t that sharp. But since I was testing a barrel that I had to fix for a number of short comings it was certainly slugs.
 
When I bought my 1859 carbine the block clearly had some reddish dirt probably from a dirt dobber nest. It seemed to have been in a barn or attic for many decades. I went to the Sharps expert in Baton Rouge and he got the clean out screw out for me. We put white lead (no longer legal) on the threads and it has functioned well for the last 45 years.

Today I would recommend any one with a repro Sharps use a nickel based anti size on those threads and on the nipple threads too. They tend to foul up and corrode if not protected.
 
I'm an absolute acolyte of the Holy Black, SDS, and have been since I started with charcoal burners in the mid 70's. Good thought, though. Dave951, what caps do you use, and where can I get some?

Dusty, I'm going to take the block to my shop and see if I can get the clean-out screw out this weekend. Here at home I'm not having any luck, which bothers me as much as anything. I don't ignore my guns, and this is acting like I haven't had it out ever. I don't want to strip it.
I use Scheutzen or RWS. I won't even buy CCI.
 
Well, I took the block to my shop today. I didn't have any luck getting the blamed clean-out screw loose, but I blasted some air through it from the nipple and the other end and it came through like gangbusters every time. Definitely no obstruction in there. That leads me to believe it had to have been the caps. Has anyone else had this happen? It just boggles my mind. Now I've got to try to find good musket caps! Arrggh!
 
Here's a question: Are there nipples, or is it at all difficult to turn a nipple, to make it use a primer? Any reason not to?
If you can match the threads in the bolster, a Mag-Spark will allow use with 209 shotgun primers. And you if can find a percussion cap nipple that fits the bolster, small pistol or rifle primers can be made to work with a small piece of tubing (think aquarium tubing).

Easiest answer is to get some decent musket caps.
 
Okay, so I just bought some Scheutzen caps. I hope that takes care of the problem, 'cause brother they ain't cheap! If anyone's interested I'll post back after my next trip to the range (at which point I'll also bring one of my many rock locks, which never fail me).
 
I hit the range today with my IAB Sharps. It was impromptu so I planned to loose load and just tune myself up at 50 yards. It was clean and everything seemed to be operating as it should. I blew through the channel to assure myself it wasn't blocked (air came right out where it should) and then snapped a cap before loading.

Bullet pressed in with a dowel, 50 grains measured on top, closed the action, capped, aimed and snap. No fire. Another musket cap, snap, no fire. Unloaded, cleaned, did it all again, and the same blasted result. The caps themselves seemed underwhelming to me, just a little pop, so maybe that's something to do with it. CCI winged caps. The whole thing was just so frustrating I packed it up and played with my pal's plastic unmentionable for the rest of the morning.

I have the entire block soaking in Kroil right now so I can try to get the clean-out screw loose and to hopefully help clean up whatever's in the channel. Tomorrow I'll use some compressed air on the channel too, if need be.

This isn't the first time I've had this sort of problem. (I really wished I had a rock lock with me. Those I can keep working every time). Any thoughts, suggestions, observations, undeserved allegations? I've had good sessions with this in the past, I'm sure, and I do keep my guns very clean. I'm frustrated and could use some guidance.

Thanks in advance.
What does the flash hole in your nipple look like? Here is an example of mine - on the left is the one that came with the gun, on the right is the replacement from TOW - with the left - many misfires, with the right - no misfires.
 

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Well, I did have a somewhat burnt out nipple (thanks Columbus) and after comparing the old CCI caps to the new Scheutzen caps there's no comparison. The former give me a tiny little pop, while the latter actually bang and ignite the charge. Man, ain't that something?

But I still have a question for y'all: I'm no machinist, but I'm generally quite handy. I absolutely cannot get the clean-out screw out of the block. I've soaked it in Kroil, I've tried heat, I have what I believe (based on a magnifier) to be a very well fit screw driver, but I just cannot budge the thing. Short of drilling it out and retapping does anyone have any suggestions?
 
My assumption was that something was partially blocking the channel, but is it possible I've got a tin of bad caps? It would be a first for me over a long time shooting, but does that happen? They seemed lackluster, just a tiny little pop.
When I use musket caps I wear ear plugs because they are loud. CCI caps are no different, loud. You may very well have a batch of bad caps or they were stored at some point in a moist environment.
 
Well, I took the block to my shop today. I didn't have any luck getting the blamed clean-out screw loose, but I blasted some air through it from the nipple and the other end and it came through like gangbusters every time. Definitely no obstruction in there. That leads me to believe it had to have been the caps. Has anyone else had this happen? It just boggles my mind. Now I've got to try to find good musket caps! Arrggh!
Did you try the drill press method for removing stubborn screws? Lock the block in a drill press vice then use the down pressure of the drill press and manually turn the chuck while applying down pressure on the screw. You'll need a tool to rotate the chuck with one hand and of course a proper fitting screwdriver bit.
 
The flash hole in the nipple is critical. An eroded nipple or enlarged flash hole can easily lead to misfires.

Let's correct a few things here-

there is NO bolster on a Sharps. It's a Falling block unlike a regular muzzleloader

there is NO "clean out" screw on a Sharps. It's a hole that must be drilled in the block to complete the fire channel. After drilling, it has to be plugged to complete the fire channel, hence the screw. It does make cleaning the fire channel easier.

Part of my cleaning process after a match involves removing that screw and gently (GENTLY) using finger pressure, use a small drill bit to scrape out the fire channel. You want to remove the carbon but not the steel so when that bit binds while you are gently moving it with your fingers, stop, back up, you're hitting steel. Reinstall the screw with anti-sieze of some type. I use a very small dab of white lithium grease and have had no issues.

As a previous poster has observed, CCI caps are weak. Yeah, they're that way on purpose because of a reenactor who sued them and in response, CCI weakened the caps. It's well known in the competition world. They work ok for blanks, but for live fire and accuracy? Don't bother.
 
Call Bob Gorsky to discuss your problem(s). He's the man when it comes to repair of percussion breechloaders. He's worked on my Sharps and Gallagher. I agree with Dave's comments about CCI caps. You could also have a problem with the nipple(you fix) or a corroded flash channel(Bob's fix) or a combination of all three. Home 410-795-2677. Cell 301-452-4601. Email [email protected].
 
I'm extremely embarrassed to write this, but I've been calling my Sharps an IAB when it's actually Armi San Marco*. Do any of y'all know the correct nipple for their Sharps Cavalry Carbine?

And Gemmer, thanks for the contact. If a new nipple doesn't set things straight I'll definitely get in touch with Bob.

(*Or is there a difference?)
 
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