Shortening a Flint

[Nuthatch]

With my Pedersoli Kentucky Rifle, just about every new flint rests against the frizzen in the half-**** position. This ends up creating a gap for powder to escape since the frizzen can't close all the way. What is a good way to shorten the flint so that it doesn't rest against the frizzen? I know I can tap the edge & chip off pieces. But that creates more of a serrated edge instead of a nice, straight edge the way that a fresh flint tends to look. Any tips?

 

[M. De Land]

With my Pedersoli Kentucky Rifle, just about every new flint rests against the frizzen in the half-**** position. This ends up creating a gap for powder to escape since the frizzen can't close all the way. What is a good way to shorten the flint so that it doesn't rest against the frizzen? I know I can tap the edge & chip off pieces. But that creates more of a serrated edge instead of a nice, straight edge the way that a fresh flint tends to look. Any tips?

You can grind the back of them in a shop grinder with a green wheel for carbide sharpening. Be sure and wear a dust mask.
Actually a serrated edge is what you want because it's stronger and lasts longer than a blade edge. The reason flints come with a sharp even blade edge is because that is the shape they are knapped off from a core before sectioned in individual flints.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Sometimes you can use this hack to effectively shorten a flint. @Loyalist Dave has posted this method of making the leather wrap to hold a flint in the jaws of the hammer. As has provided a very decent description of the process to make the flint wrap, I'll quote it. Expand the quote to see how to make the wrap.

Toothpick, small wooden match body. In the military muskets we sometimes use strips of soft lead.
Also, your flint should rest against the jaw screw. No leather or lead in between. The leather or the lead often has a V notch cut away to allow the back of the flint to rest against the screw. The other way is to have two holes in the leather, and pass the jaw screw through the holes. The second method keeps the leather with the lock if your flint works loose and is lost...,

Here are two leather methods.
View attachment 87964

Here's the upper leather installed in a lock:

View attachment 87965

LD

You may have to expand the quote to see the complete picture. I generally use the oval cut out as it is often difficult to fit the wrap over the jaw screw. You effectively move the flint back the thickness of the leather wrap.

 

[hanshi]

There are two things you can do to correct the problem. If you haven't already cut a notch in the leather where it rests against the **** screw doing that simple alteration will shorten flint length the thickness of the the leather wrap. You can also chip a divot on the rear edge of the flint which will put it against the **** screw. A pair of pliers is all that's necessary to chip out a notch. Other than that you might consider going to a shorter flint.

 

[Nuthatch]

There are two things you can do to correct the problem. If you haven't already cut a notch in the leather where it rests against the **** screw doing that simple alteration will shorten flint length the thickness of the the leather wrap. You can also chip a divot on the rear edge of the flint which will put it against the **** screw. A pair of pliers is all that's necessary to chip out a notch. Other than that you might consider going to a shorter flint.

Chipping a divot on the back end of the flint could work. I already notched the leather & just need a wee bit more. Thanks.

 

[flintsteel]

The best way to shorten a flint is to do it at home. Using Vicegrips clamp the flint and leather padding with the back side sticking out. Cinch the vicegrip in your vice and then take a worn out punch and with a small hammer lightly tap a small piece of the rear end. It’ll pop off, and move a short distance sideways and repeat until all the way across. Do it again if not short enough. Taking small chips I seldom break a flint and can size even a musket flint to fit a Siler in just a few minutes.

 

[Rifleman1776]

There are two things you can do to correct the problem. If you haven't already cut a notch in the leather where it rests against the **** screw doing that simple alteration will shorten flint length the thickness of the the leather wrap. You can also chip a divot on the rear edge of the flint which will put it against the **** screw. A pair of pliers is all that's necessary to chip out a notch. Other than that you might consider going to a shorter flint.

Beat me to it, Hanshi. My suggestion exactly also.

 

[rusticbob]

I have a Pedersoli Frontier that also needed shorter flints to prevent touching the frizzen at 1/2 ****. I do as Hanshi suggested and chip out a small divot from the back of the flint with pliers. I also went to a thin lead strip to pad the jaws. Seems to spark better for me.

 

[ord sgt]

Next flint order, get some smaller flints. You could always send the long flints to me I will dispose of them.

 

[Uncle Miltie]

I use pliers to break off pieces at the back of the flint. I just put the flint in the jaws and squeeze; usually works.

 

[akroguy]

I'm finding that sometimes a flint that's as wide as the frizzen is too long. I've gone down a size or two on an L&R lock and my Pedersoli Kentucky to get some gap between the flint leading edge and the frizzen face at half ****. The smaller (narrower and shorter) flint sparks just fine. So it doesn't have to cover the full frizzen width to function well. As long as the sparks are falling into the pan, it's good to go.

 

[Bushfire]

Smaller flint or thinner leather