Shot the new fowler

[paulvallandigham]

Rebel, as thick as that index card stock, I still think you will benefit more if you do two wraps around the mandrill before gluing. I don't know what the condition of those paper shotcups are after the shot is made, but even with that index card stock, I would expect to see holes where the pellets pressed against the paper. With two layers of card stock, you should see impressions but not hole. Holes mean that the shot is still being pressed hard enough against the side of the barrel to have a flat rubbed on the pellet.

You are now using 2 slits in the cup. How about using 4? And maybe only half way down the length of the cup? You are trying to create an air brake with those petals, to stop the cup, and release the shot. The more wings opening, the better the brake, no? And, if you don't make the slits so long, the core shot at the back of the load of shot remains held together longer, and that is the core of your pattern at distance, according to Bob Brister's book.

Thanks for the information on how you are making those cups. That is similar to what I am doing, except I have been trying to get performance out of 3M post-it note paper, and its not been satisfactory. I will be trying index card stock next. I am still thinking of putting some smaller OS cards inside the cup to provide an even, flat, smooth surface to push the shot.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Rebel, as thick as that index card stock, I still think you will benefit more if you do two wraps around the mandrill before gluing. I don't know what the condition of those paper shotcups are after the shot is made, but even with that index card stock, I would expect to see holes where the pellets pressed against the paper. With two layers of card stock, you should see impressions but not hole. Holes mean that the shot is still being pressed hard enough against the side of the barrel to have a flat rubbed on the pellet.

You are now using 2 slits in the cup. How about using 4? And maybe only half way down the length of the cup? You are trying to create an air brake with those petals, to stop the cup, and release the shot. The more wings opening, the better the brake, no? And, if you don't make the slits so long, the core shot at the back of the load of shot remains held together longer, and that is the core of your pattern at distance, according to Bob Brister's book.

Thanks for the information on how you are making those cups. That is similar to what I am doing, except I have been trying to get performance out of 3M post-it note paper, and its not been satisfactory. I will be trying index card stock next. I am still thinking of putting some smaller OS cards inside the cup to provide an even, flat, smooth surface to push the shot.

 

[Rebel]

Paul, you may be right about 2 wraps, but the index cards are pretty thick and i have found whats left of them after being shot and haven't noticed holes in them from the shot. As for the slits, i am try to keep the shot together as long as i can for tighter patterns at longer range. I tried 2, 3, and 4 slits but the 2 slit seemed to work better, at least for me. And if you want to put an overshot card inside the cup you will have to go with a smaller size, probably a .28 ga wad, so it will fit inside. Good luck, these smoothies are a challenge, but sure are fun. :grin:

 

[paulvallandigham]

Rebel : I used 20 ga. cards in my 12 gauge cups, and would use 16 ga. cards if I could find some. I do think that my cups for my 12 ga are a little undersized, and want to put some tape on my mandrill to increase the diameter to make a better fit. I am going to try the index card stock, based on your success there. And, I am going to try the two slit approach to see if that won't help. I do believe that we will eventually find a combination of things that will improve patterns out of cylinder bore guns enough to make the effort worth while doing. Most people do not realize just how much an advantage it is to go from cylinder bore patterns to even just Improved Cylinder patterns. I will be happy with good Modified patterns as the result of using paper shotcups. It may be possible to also get to full choke patterns, but that will be a dream for now. I do think the only way to reach full choke patterns is to shorten the slit in the cup so that the shot is held together over a longer distance before separating from the cup.

 

[rabjr]

I'm curious...This maybe way off base but has anyone tried leather? I would think leather of a good thickness used for a cup and filled with shot would work no?

 

[Rebel]

Not sure how yu would form it into a shot cup unless it was pretty stiff leather. Why not try it out and see and let us know? :grin:

 

[rabjr]

Really wouldn't have to form it would you? Just push a piece cut to the right length into the bore and fill with shot I would think?

 

[Rebel]

As long as it didn't fld over the shot on top and form a solid bag of shot it might work.

 

[Frank/Pa]

Checked out the pictures. Nice job and quick delivery. Sent you a PM.