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Should I reach out to builder or adjust at home? Gap between lock and barrel

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There are several things wrong with this gun; which indicate it was poorly made. In addition to the lock inlet and trigger guard... and concerns others have pointed out. The lock, side plate, and perhaps trigger guard still show "as cast" surfaces. All cast surfaces should have been filed. My guess is that, if we were to see good photos of other areas of construction, there would be more issues.

My advice would be to return the gun for a refund, if possible. There is a lot to look for when considering a handmade gun. Proper architecture, fit, and finish are essential to a Longrifle's appearance and performance. It looks like this rifle is missing all three. Many of the issues can be remedied; but given what we can see, there may be issues with the gun that cannot be corrected.

There is a lot that goes into proper Longrifle. Design, architecture, fit, finish, spatial and mechanical relationships. An uncorrected mistake early in the building process will created more problems later on. Every builder makes mistakes; but good builders will correct them before moving on. At the risk of offending... knowing how a gun should look, feel, and function will save a lot of frustration later on.
 
My advice would be to return the gun for a refund, if possible.
Good luck with that. I will say that I knew whom the builder was INSTANTLY just by seeing the nature of the issues and I didn't even have to read their name off the barrel flat. They can make some good to excellent ones (as I just sold one that was PERFECT in every degree ... ).

But they are also know to farm out some of their builds and I'd bet $$ they do not go to the main shop to be checked prior to being shipped. Their track record of dealing with customer complaints doesn't appear to be too stellar on here ... unfortunately.
 
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No intention to pile on here. New to flintlocks, so very hard for me to assess what’s normal. I have some pictures of when I first got the rifle. I ran into a problem where at the first trigger pull the top of the **** jaw (holding the flint) slightly scraped the frizzen and was hitting at too sharp of an angle. The flint really wasn’t properly installed when it left the shop. Looking back at photos when I was diagnosing contact w/lipstick and adjusting the flint I can see now the start of another issue I had. The **** is about 1/16 inch left of frizzen center.

This captures it more.

View attachment 220981

I don’t know if the longer frizzen lock screw was accommodated via screw tightness but I did see one / both lock screws not all the way seated on arrival and touching the outer lip of where it’d reside in the lock. Here’s a photo of that with the front screw noticeably protruding on arrival.

View attachment 220982

Maybe there were fitment issues during the build given how the screw holes in the plate were ovaled out.

View attachment 220983

Once I fully seated the screws after my first cleaning (it took only an index finger and thumb of torque - really minor pressure honestly), I cocked and pulled the hammer/**** to test everything. I got a scratch on the finish from the hammer / **** contacting the stock. It seemed like the relief on the other side wasn’t enough. Am I new and missing something or is everything a little out of wack here down to the crooked front sight?
You indeed have numerous issues to deal with. Solutions have been given in the previous post. But I think your pan gap problem is two fold, if you can prove your getting full inlet contact with lipstick or what have you, then the rear inletting is too shallow. If your showing poor or no contact at the rear then the **** making contact on the stock may be the culprit. There should be zero wood to **** contact. The slight misalignment of the **** and frizzen face is not a problem. Your flint needs to be mounted more forward in the jaws. This will give you better contact with the frizzen face and open the frizzen fully before the jaw makes contact. Your front sight is a good example of a sloppy dovetail, really a shame. You can get another sight with a longer base and file the dovetails to true.

Wanted to add that, as mentioned, check to make sure the tip of the sear isn't contacting the stock. However, any contact of the sear or contact of the **** to the stock will be evident in the lock being difficult or impossible to fully **** and slow or incomplete **** movement when released.

One would think the builder will make good on these issues, but the gun should never have left as is in the first place.
 
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Should I reach out to builder or adjust at home? Gap between lock and barrel​

This rifle is not acceptable! Quality control was obviously not present when the rifle was shipped. When you don't get what you paid for, naturally you have the right to send it back. Why should you have to repair something you paid for?
Larry
 
Lots of bad guesses here. The bolster needs fit to the barrel. In this case the lower part of the bolster needs filed to fit the contour. I've done dozens of these using my belt sander. Once you understand the problem, it is an easy fix. A bit of inlet clean up may be necessary. You may also need to grind a bit from the frizzen so it doesn't contact the barrel.
As far as lock bolt tightness goes, they shouldn't be gorilla tight, just nice and snug. The rear should be snugged first, then the front.
If the **** is contacting the stock, it's wrong. All in all, whoever built the gun did a half assed job of it.
I disagree with filing the lock to fit the barrel. If the barrel was installed correctly, the lock would not need filing. Semper Fi.
 
I hope that you did not pay a lot for that rifle. Your rifle has some major and minor issues from what I see. That sight being one of the major issues along with the lock to barrel gap. Good luck on getting the gunmaker to fix it :rolleyes: . You might be better off trying to fix it yourself then shipping it back at your own price for shipping because you surely know that the gunmaker will not be paying the shipping costs:eek:o_O. You may not even get the rifle back for maybe over a year if at all - more headaches!
 
I disagree with filing the lock to fit the barrel. If the barrel was installed correctly, the lock would not need filing. Semper Fi.
Disagree if you like, but I have had to do it on kit guns, and custom builds. Assuming barrels are cut on perfect planes is a dream. I got hired as a builder because I DID know how to properly fit bolsters.
 
Good luck with that. I will say that I knew whom the builder was INSTANTLY just by seeing the nature of the issues and I didn't even have to read their name off the barrel flat. They can make some good to excellent ones (as I just sold one that was PERFECT in every degree ... ).

But they are also know to farm out some of their builds and I'd bet $$ they do not go to the main shop to be checked prior to being shipped. Their track record of dealing with customer complaints doesn't appear to be too stellar on here ... unfortunately.
Based on your comment that is disappointing with the builder. To have sub par work vs other times perfect shows a real lack of professionalism and pride in their work. Tough to recommend someone like that for a commission build. Integrity and reputation is everything in this business. If there is an excuse, health for example, there is really no excuse. Ask for help or decline the work. Do not put out sub par work in hopes a sucker will not notice the flaws. Really not a good look on this one.
 
Well since this is a learning experience for me. Please point out anything else you can see.

Also, the potentially bent lock face photo didn’t attach, so added here. At the rear of the lock it turns outward, which was my idea on that there should be a gap with it slightly convex to the stock.

7EBAFE88-000D-4B1E-946A-CF5BC1F2A254.jpeg


I don’t have anyone around me knowledgeable on flintlocks. Appreciative to have this community as I really would know nothing. Here’s a few other assorted pictures.
 

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More of the inletting. It was $2,350 including a Chambers colonial lock, rice swamped radius barrel, walnut stock, and wooden patchbox. Will let you know how things go. Builder is going to take it back to look over. Was going to mention the builder just since it’s nice to have the information available to the community, but want to give a chance and be open minded in case there’s something im missing here. All said, I’ve shot two shots through it, cleaned it, and it’s lived on the wall absent photos for troubleshooting.

The lighter wood color where the inletting is for the **** is me. It was gashed more than it was dinged, so I took the mark out from the **** dropping with very light sandpaper and an initial wiping of linseed oil.

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Well since this is a learning experience for me. Please point out anything else you can see.
For the money you spent and the quality barrel and lock you ordered, I would not be happy. What I see is poorly done inlets. Particularly the butt plate, side plate, and RR entry pipe. Hard to tell from the pics but it looks like your frizzen may be rubbing the barrel, there is a mark in front of the vent. I would not be happy with the triggerguard casting being left rough either.

Hope you come to an agreeable resolution.
 
I hate to be so blunt and forward, but this rifle is a lemon.
Why send it back to the builder who boned it in the first place? Find someone better qualified to fix it, or fix it yourself. The original builder was well aware of his mistakes. You don't make something and not be keenly aware of your mistakes. Probably got frustrated with it and at some point threw his hands up and just said good enough.
 
Even if this builder makes it right, he should be outed. Shipping that rifle with those flaws was unprofessional and unscrupulous.

Commissioning a custom gun is an act of faith and trust backed up with a sum of money that, for most of us, is not inconsiderable. I have done it once with Brad Emig at Cabin Creek and was rewarded with a gorgeous and functional rifle. Putting my trust in Rick Baker now for an SMR. I know it will be sweet.
 
Even if this builder makes it right, he should be outed. Shipping that rifle with those flaws was unprofessional and unscrupulous.

Commissioning a custom gun is an act of faith and trust backed up with a sum of money that, for most of us, is not inconsiderable. I have done it once with Brad Emig at Cabin Creek and was rewarded with a gorgeous and functional rifle. Putting my trust in Rick Baker now for an SMR. I know it will be sweet.
I have mixed emotions on this next step you are recommending. I think the builder should have a chance to make it right before getting called out. Yet it never should have left either. I do agree with you as I stated in my earlier post, I just hate to go straight to condemnation without an opportunity to make it right. We had that on here before, builder got called out before he was even contacted to make it right. I felt that was wrong and I stated so. In the end though a full blown accounting should be communicated with final outcome. Good, bad, positive, negative with names so folks can make an informed decision when they want to do the same.
 
This looks like an easy fix to me. The back edge of the lockplate is most likely touching wood unevenly. Put some inletting black on the lock plate, install the lock, then remove. If you don't see an even line of black on the wood then you've got a high spot. A couple minutes with a chisel, problem solved.
 
Why would anyone recommend the OP fixes this. He paid for a correctly finished product and obviously got a piece of garbage instead. This builder has been called out so many times they should be out of business by now. If the one I received from them were anywhere near that bad I would of requested a full refund. Hopefully you paid on a credit card then you can get your money back and then send them that pile of junk back.
 

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