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squirrelman

32 Cal.
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Jan 18, 2006
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I am having trouble seeing my rear sights on any of my guns as the 40's have hit. I don't really want to go to a scope or #&^( inline. Anyone have suggestions on how to do sights for this problem? I use a .32 flinter for squirrel so this is important.
 
I had the same problem, I now hae collected , over the years, five silver inlays on top of my barrel as I move the rear sight foreward. think of them as hash marks showing years of shooting. Bob :grin:
 
An aperture sight was the answer for me. The tang mounted T/C hunting peep sight is mounted on my T/C Hawken and Greyhawk. A Lyman 57 on my GPR. All work well, but the Lyman is a bit big and clunky compared with the T/C sight.

All of these sights come with a very small aperture (about .040, I'd guess), which is fine for target shooting, but not good for hunting. Bad lighting conditions can make the front sight hard to see. Fortunately, they are all threaded to accept the 3/8" Willams apertures which range in size from .050" to .125".

I've settled on the .093" aperture as the best all-round choice. Coupled with a fiber optic front sight, it throws up a terrific sight picture.

The aperture rear sight is mounted quite close to the eye and 'blurs' even with perfect vision. But you're not dependent upon seeing a sharp outline of the rear sight for this sighting sytem to work. Instead, the eye automatically works with the supporting muscles to center the object focussed on (the front sight) in the rear sight aperture. The result is just as precise as centering the bead in the notch of a open rear sight.

If rear sight blur is the problem, go with a sighting system where the rear sight is meant to blur.
FWIW
Bob
 
Moving the sights forward works as mentioned.

If you can find an optomiterist who shoots, he can make you a set of shooting glasses that will work.

When I switched from bi-focals to progressive lens my scores plummited, I had to go back to bi-focals.

RDE
 
I put a buck horn on my Kentucky. It made a big difference. Now I should get a bead on the front sight.
 
You might go to the local Drug Store and check out the "reading glasses".
Look for the lowest power glasses they have (smallest number) and try them on.
Look at something which is about the same distance away as your rear and front sight. Also look at something 25 yards or so away if you can.
The stronger the glasses, the more the distant things will be out of focus.

Even the lowest power may be too much for you, but then again it may be a $10 fix for your problem.

zonie :)
 
I moved the rear sight forward and also added a globe front sight. The round front sight cover helped to clear up the blurring of the front post.

It may hide some light hitting the front sight, but it worked very well this year on "Ole Thunder"

I also did my 32 cal. it helped also.[adding the front globe sight]
Buggy-globe.jpg
 
Wait till you hit the sixty's, my back sight is almost touching the front one!!!! :rotf:
 
The rear almost touching the front. That's funny!!!
I have tried reading glasses, the rear sight is real clear but the everything else is blury. I guess moving the rear sight is the way to go.
Maybe if I hold the gun out away fom me, like when I try to reading without glasses would work also. :rotf:
 
aperture sights are great and I love them, on my Sharps, bolt and lever actions. I know they were known on muzzleloaders but I haven't gotten to the point I'm willing to put one on any of mine. I haven't moved the rear sight forward, yet, but will probably have to before long. Here's what I did and it works.......for now. (By the way, this is a problem for the rest of your shooting life....just like the rest of us..welcome to the club...hehehe).

All my rifles have the flat topped rear sight so it was easy to open up the notch. That let more light show around the front sight and my shooting improved significantly. For sighting in rifles I use the old "hole punched in a piece of tape" trick and that REALLY helps. Of course, it's essentially an aperture on your glasses. I don't use it hunting but will in matches that allow it. Just keep after it, you'll find something that works for you.

Vic
 
I was thinking about lengthening my stock and using a string to pull the trigger :rotf:
bramble
 
While peep sights are probably the best answer, they are not allowed in any of the primitive shooting events I attend. It ended my competitive shooting about 10 years ago. Our primitive guns, with primitive peep sights, are not really competitive in the any iron sight catagory.

The pitty is that these sight rules were instituted years ago by people that were shooting origional guns, with their sucky sights, to keep new gun builders from outshooting them at matches. There is no historic basis for the discrimination between open and peep sights. It was a pol;itical move by the leaders of the NMLRA back in the early days of the organization.

Moving the rear sight foreward is not effective for whatever eye problem it is that plauges me.

I have found two things that work for me.

1. Widen the notch in the rear sight. It puts more light around the front sight and eliminats the "lost sight" syndrome I deal with. I still have to hunt for the front sight most of the time and then squint to line it up.

2. Use a shallow V rear sight with a large bright bead front. I am talking about 1/8" beads or bigger in bright brass or ivory. This has become standard for my hunting rigs.

Neither of these things really allows me to shoot the way I did before the eyes faded.

I use a scope on a magnetic base to work up loads, which is also frustrating. After using the scope to develop a fantastic load that centers POA with every shot, I remove the scope and find I can not keep the groups at half the size of the sighters.

I am finishing up a rifle that will have an open sight that works like a peep sight and conforms to the NMLRA rules. They state that the sight must be located at least 5" from the breech and if the rear sight forms a circle (Like a full buckhorn) the gap at the top of the horns must be a minimum of 1/4". This mandates that the peep circle be at least 1/2", but there are ghost ring sights with openings that large, so the experiment continues.

Getting old sucks! :cursing:
 
Since you should be focusing on the front sight, get eye glasses that allow you to see at that distance cleary. You look through, and OVER open sights, so they are supposed to be " fuzzy", in your vision. The target also should be fuzzy. Only the front sight should be clear, without eye straining squints. Opening the rear sight so that there is plenty of daylight on both sides of the front post, and then making a center line on the backside of the rear sight so you can aligh that front sight post in the center quickly, and consistently should produce the best groups you are going to be able to shoot with that gun and load.
 
These sights are mounted in same position as others, they work great for me. A couple I have taken a jeweler's saw with a very thin blade to cut a top slit, takes nothing away from it's effectiveness and is OK for primitive shoots.
[url] http://trackofthewolf.com/(S(...SUBID=167&STYLEID=768&PARTNUM=RS-CA-PEEP[/url]
 
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Those are nice sights but they are not accepted as primitive for competition.

Making a slot with a jewelers saw does not provide the 1/4" opening at the top required by the regulations.

Most shoots follow the NMLRA guidelines here in the east, even if it is not an NMLRA club.
 
squirrellvr said:
I am having trouble seeing my rear sights on any of my guns as the 40's have hit. I don't really want to go to a scope or #&^( inline. Anyone have suggestions on how to do sights for this problem? I use a .32 flinter for squirrel so this is important.

This is what I did to my 32 this year.
Hood-32.jpg

Squirrels can't tell that it is not legal for compatitions :blah:
 
" There is no historic basis for the discrimination between open and peep sights."

I think there would be depending on the time period and the style (modern or primitive type of peep).... putting a high tech modern micro click peep on a 1780 longrifle would not be the same as useing a peep type of the period if one could find a documentable one on anything other than specialized target rifles, I wonder how often one would see any peep on a typical civilian rifle of that period? I do not recall seeing any peeps on any of the guns in Schumways or Kindigs or Whiskers works, I suspect they would be use on the later ML's during the transition period to cartridge guns more than on guns 1840 and earlier, I have never seen much on peeps in the earlier time period on common guns, one on a Jaeger I think that could have been mid 18th century.
 
=ghost Making a slot with a jewelers saw does not provide the 1/4" opening at the top required by the regulations.

Most shoots follow the NMLRA guidelines here in the east, even if it is not an NMLRA club.

Where I have shot at, (t'warent back east) it stated open sights only, they were not exactly into the holy grail of regs sanctioned by the grand poopa council from on high.
 

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