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Sillywet Question

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Gus

40 Cal.
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Hey folks, looking for threads and info. on silhouette shooting, specifically target size - full scale, half scale or what? There are some nice sites out there on how to build and where to buy, BUT what size do WE use for muzzleloading rifles and smoothies - choices being large bore rifle, pistol, cowboy action rifle, etc.? :hmm:

gus
 
NMLRA; targets are capable of being toppled with a .45 cal and 60grn charges;

Crow--12" x 8 1/2"x 3/8,,base 2"x4"x 3/8
Groundhog--6 1/2" x 13 1/2"x 3/8,,base 3"x6"x 3/8
Buffalo--22" x 15"x 1/4,,base 3"x5"x 1/4
Turkey 18"x 21"x 1/4,,base 3'x7'x 1/4
Bear 13"x 35"x 1/4,,base 4"x6" 1/4

These are placed above the ground ,,like on a plank,, and adjusted back far enough to reach topple point then moved forword enough to achieve stability.
Crow at 50yrds
Groundhog at 100
Buffalo at 150
Turkey at 175
Bear at 200
 
.40 RB over 75 gr FFG will take off the 100 yard targets when hitting at or above mid point.

TC
 
If you want to preserve the steel targets for any length of time, expect guys to be shooting HUGE lead balls, and even minie balls( bullets) at these things. The short range targets get beaten up fairly badly.

If you use the standing targets the friction caused by the weight of the targets on their stands allows more damage to occur, than if you hang them from Chains, so you have a " Swinging Target" instead of a " stander". Mount the chains to the back side of the silhouette target, about 1/5 of the distance down from the top of the target. This will cause the target to lean a bit- about 10-15 degree angle-- TOWARDS the shooter, and cause the balls to rebound down into the dirt IN FRONT OF the target. Otherwise, the lead can be going everywhere, and that creates safety hazards.

Swingers, as they are also called, can be scored from the firing line, without having to stop the shooting and go out to put the targets back up.

Use armour plate if you can for these targets. Target made for close range shooting, where the energy of the heavy bullets is the highest need to be made from 5/8" thick steel plate. If they are not hardened, or armor plate, they get beat into a hollow cup in a year or so of shooting. Some can be "saved" by using a sledge hammer to pound them back Flat. Heating the plates help with this. The hammer blows actually help to work harden the steel, so the plates take more abuse with less " cupping" each year they are used. Protect them from rust. For the bigger, long range targets, 3/8"-1/2" have proven sufficient to provent abuse. Again, use Armor plate if you can get it.

As anyone who has seen the Primitive Range at Friendship knows, you can make targets in any shape you want. Some of the hardest targets there are in various geometric shapes, with holes of various sizes in the middle: YOU have to hit the edge of the target to score!! :shocked2:

When we first made our silhouette targets at my club, the guys with the cutting torch decided to show off their skills at cutting fine lines to do Squirrels, rabbits, etc. After a few tails, and ears were shot off, the guys now are making the targets in more " rounded" forms- blobby outlines of the animals, without small appendages that can be easily broken off. Squirrels still have tails, of course, but they are a lot " fluffier", ie, WIDER where they come off the back of the target, and a lot shorter.

Squirrels have no cute little ears sticking above their heads, as if they are pulling them down and forward to listen to something below them from a tree limb. And, because the targets are so small, and located so close to the shooters, the club insists on body shots, and not head shots on these targets.

If you hit the head( by accident or intent) you are punished by having points taken away from you. If you break a target doing that, you may find yourself assigned to a work crew to weld it back together again.

If you don't want to take the time, or have the equipment and skill to make your own targets, send me a PT and I can give you the name and phone number for a company here who makes these kinds of targets commercially. I don't know what they charge, and have no connection with the business at all. I only know a mutual friend, who serves on a Board of Directors with me, and I know the younger brothers of the owner.
 
I have made chain-hung 'swinging' targets for lead slugs from pistols and RB muzzleloaders useing scrap 5/16th" abrasive resistant steel plate meant to be used in fabricating buckets for loaders and scraper sheilds for dozers it's some tough stuff. have to use s/s or LH 90 or 110 rod to weld it.
just regular hot-rolled mild steel 3/8 or even 1/2" would likely be better choice. I love the 'whack' sound that is made when a slug hits it and even better when the target is out there aways.
 
necchi said:
NMLRA; targets are capable of being toppled with a .45 cal and 60grn charges;

Crow--12" x 8 1/2"x 3/8,,base 2"x4"x 3/8
Groundhog--6 1/2" x 13 1/2"x 3/8,,base 3"x6"x 3/8
Buffalo--22" x 15"x 1/4,,base 3"x5"x 1/4
Turkey 18"x 21"x 1/4,,base 3'x7'x 1/4
Bear 13"x 35"x 1/4,,base 4"x6" 1/4

Wow, what great info. all. Did the data above come from the NMLRA Rule Book? I've searched and search to no avail until this thread.

I've got a set of silhouettes that are no where near any official size by anyones standards. By far the best reference I've found online is at the International Handgun Metallic Silhouette Association at http://www.ihmsa.org/ On that site they have jpegs of the basic shapes and I printed them on 8 1/2 x 11 paper, gave them to my welder and he cut the steel that size out of 3/8 plate, then he made me some swingers. The swingers and the knock-offs both have there charm, with the swingers being more convenient. BY FAR, THE BEST THING ABOUT SILLYWETS is IMMEDIATE RECOGNITION OF SUCCESS, especially for new or young shooters.

I like the idea of odd and/or geographic shapes. Dinosaur shapes would be fun.

Thanks again all and happy 4th! We're having a big shin-dig today, which also includes a going away party for my son going into the Marine Corps tomorrow. Don't you think today's a good day to break out the Charleville for a family flintlock demo??
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Gus said:
necchi said:
Thanks again all and happy 4th! We're having a big shin-dig today, which also includes a going away party for my son going into the Marine Corps tomorrow. Don't you think today's a good day to break out the Charleville for a family flintlock demo??
What better reason than that would you need??? And wish your son all the best from us!! :applause: :applause:
 
Gus said:
necchi said:
NMLRA; targets are capable of being toppled with a .45 cal and 60grn charges;

Crow--12" x 8 1/2"x 3/8,,base 2"x4"x 3/8
Groundhog--6 1/2" x 13 1/2"x 3/8,,base 3"x6"x 3/8
Buffalo--22" x 15"x 1/4,,base 3"x5"x 1/4
Turkey 18"x 21"x 1/4,,base 3'x7'x 1/4
Bear 13"x 35"x 1/4,,base 4"x6" 1/4

Wow, what great info. all. Did the data above come from the NMLRA Rule Book? I've searched and search to no avail until this thread.
...

At one time Muzzleblasts (about 20 years back) had scaled patterns for these targets. Our club has a set of four each that we use for silhouette shoots a couple of times a year.

You should be able to get a set of patterns from the NMLRA.
 
My state assoc will be putting on this shoot

Link

We plan to use the same silhouettes as used in BPCR only at lesser distance.
 
Gus said:
Did the data above come from the NMLRA Rule Book?

We're having a big shin-dig today, which also includes a going away party for my son going into the Marine Corps tomorrow.

Yes, I couldn't find it on their web site, so I pulled out my "Rules and Reg's" book
And your right, gong's, ballons, Dixie Cups full of flour,,anything that has an action when hit is really fun for new shooters, kinda like starting kids with bb guns and tin cans :grin:

But most important is best wishes to your boy, hope he makes it! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :hatsoff:
 
As Paul mentioned AR plate is good as well as CHT [ carbon steel heat treated ] for targets. If you are going to a scrap dealer he probably won't know what you are talking about so take a magnet with you. A lot of armour plate has manganese in it and manganese tends to make steel less magnetic. Pads off of cat tracks and grader blades and grader bars usually have manganese in them. It will take a lot of shooting to wear them out.

If you run across it Astroloy is super hard. High chrome content.
 

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