Simple instructions for making a matchlock

[Barry Strickland]

I would certainly like to see this thread continue on. I am interested in the matchlocks and will eventually make one. I am also very interested in the wheellocks and would like to see some drawings of the workings and their relationships to each other. I have the different components in mind how they would work together but having a proven design to work from would be easier.
Barry

 

[Rudyard]

I would certainly like to see this thread continue on. I am interested in the matchlocks and will eventually make one. I am also very interested in the wheellocks and would like to see some drawings of the workings and their relationships to each other. I have the different components in mind how they would work together but having a proven design to work from would be easier.
Barry

Yes having plans would make things easier . Where there's a will there's a sobbing relation .But many books shew these details if seldom quite enough to go by without tears . I've make 5 wheellocks & umpteen matchlocks all sorts and I still struggle oft times . I've concluded the original makers just did that time & regional type guns . No other influences and thusly worked out all the kinks. While we jet age people have so many other distractions & options . Best of luck .
Philosophic Rudyard

 

[TobJohn]

I figured out enough French to find the musket I had mentioned earlier.
https://basedescollections.musee-ar...&queryId=ccffc319-a3c4-420c-9065-bd26319bced4
There is only the side profile, but its shape is archetypical for a fishtail matchlock.

This example in the Royal Armouries Collection has an amazing amount of detail (including parts removed and the inside of the lock) but could be a little large for a home project (13+ lbs and a 49 inch barrel):
Matchlock muzzle-loading musket Littlecote collection. - Royal Armouries collections

 

[TobJohn]

Here is another gun for inspiration:

Months ago, I got some of the dimensions over email:
Barrel length: 1133 mm / 44.61 in
Overall length: 1530 mm / 60.24 in
Weight: 4.200 kg / 9.26 lbs

Matchlock muzzle-loading musket With fishtail butt. - Royal Armouries collections

 

[TobJohn]

Looking back at this thread, one potentially useful addition would be a view of the butt of a fishtail matchlock with dimensions, particularly width. That is not something I have been able to find online

 

[Pukka Bundook]

You see folk making guns something like the above John, then they shoot them off a rest!
This sort were never meant for a rest.
These stocks are not usually real delicate, so if you go by the width of the stock at the barrel breech, they likely taper a little wider towards the butt plate.
Mine does but would have to measure it as I didn't use measurements when I made it.
Below is a pic under the foreend.
These guns were usually slab sided, so as you can see the stock follows the barrel profile
This continues to the buttplate, flat slabs, Not organic like more modern guns.
Thought I had a pic of buttplate but can't find it!
I would Guess butt plate is 2" thick... but that Is a Guess!

 

[TobJohn]

You see folk making guns something like the above John, then they shoot them off a rest!
This sort were never meant for a rest.
These stocks are not usually real delicate, so if you go by the width of the stock at the barrel breech, they likely taper a little wider towards the butt plate.
Mine does but would have to measure it as I didn't use measurements when I made it.

Yeah, I believe the French one (actually Dutch) and the lighter English one are both from the post rest era.

Did you make your stock off of feel and look? I have never actually seen this type in person, but I believe the wide parts are parallel, have a concave curve inward and then are parallel again to the squared off top?
Quick ms paint mockup:

The slab sided detail of the stocks overall is not something I had noticed. Thanks for pointing it out. Some of the vertical curving near where the ramrod channel approaches the lock and trigger area give an illusion of a bulge in width around the lock, but looking back at them, that is not actually the case.

 

[rickystl]

Looking back at this thread, one potentially useful addition would be a view of the butt of a fishtail matchlock with dimensions, particularly width. That is not something I have been able to find online

Hi John

Here is a rear view of a fishtail butt stock if that helps. It's mounted with an English lock versus a matchlock. But you get the idea. They are actually more comfortable to shoot than you would first imagine. Seems the Fishtail style of butt stock, with it's thumb cut-out was popular with gun builders from the end of the 16th through the early 17th centuries.

Rick

 

[TobJohn]

Hi John

Here is a rear view of a fishtail butt stock if that helps. It's mounted with an English lock versus a matchlock. But you get the idea. They are actually more comfortable to shoot than you would first imagine. Seems the Fishtail style of butt stock, with it's thumb cut-out was popular with gun builders from the end of the 16th through the early 17th centuries.

RickView attachment 194521View attachment 194522View attachment 194523View attachment 194524

Thank you!!!! I had a lot of details wrong, so this is very helpful to see.

 

[TobJohn]

I thought of another possible problem for someone attempting this build in a home shop/backyard. What is a good way of attaching a trigger lever to the sear?
For normal triggers, the bar can just be bent from a metal strip. For the lever trigger, it’s my understanding the the sear bar is flat vertically (same as the previous type), but has to bend horizontally and be flat enough in that plane to be threaded.
Some of Michael Tromner’s pictures to illustrate what I am trying to describe:

I can guess at how this was done with forging, but what would be a good solution without a forge?

 

[Billy-by-gosh]

I thought of another possible problem for someone attempting this build in a home shop/backyard. What is a good way of attaching a trigger lever to the sear?
For normal triggers, the bar can just be bent from a metal strip. For the lever trigger, it’s my understanding the the sear bar is flat vertically (same as the previous type), but has to bend horizontally and be flat enough in that plane to be threaded.
Some of Michael Tromner’s pictures to illustrate what I am trying to describe:
View attachment 194759View attachment 194760
View attachment 194761
I can guess at how this was done with forging, but what would be a good solution without a forge?

FWI have often viewed and wondered about this item in Michael's posts. Obviously the flat sear is drilled and threaded to receive the 'trigger bar'. That trigger item always reminds me of something we had for had in the kitchen for many years: a set of nutcracker handles and the decorative picks to dig nutmeats out of cracked hulls. I found modern ones for sale on Amazon and ebay- searched for Nutcracker & pick set. You might be able to modify one of these to fit, and they are cheap enough to experiment with.

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Bit small, Billy.
John,
A simple propane or Map gas torch will get small bits plenty hot for flattening out like you want. An old sledge hammer will do as an anvil.
No needum forge. ;-)

 

[TobJohn]

If a gas torch was going to be used for flattening the sear bar, I am assuming it could also be used to bend the trigger bar into shape? Start with a straight rod, heat each place it needs to bend and then use a vice and hammer to bend it? Would any decorative carvings and tapering of the rod be done before or after bending?

 

[Pukka Bundook]

After would be my choice John. Some hammer marks are not out of place on most of these though!
Avoid machine made look.

 

[Arquebusier]

These images should provide some clarity on details I think a lot of reproductions miss.

This image shows the shape of the trigger, where it is pinned and how it works with sear bar. It also shows how the tag screw goes up through the front of the trigger guard into the barrel tag.

These images show how the pan is dovetailed to the barrel.

Rear sights can either be dovetailed in from the rear of the barrel like the pan or dovetailed in from the side.

 

[TobJohn]

Does anyone know how these tube sights are made and attached?

Another observation is that the pans of these guns are all slightly forward of the breech plug. Would they have still been dovetailed or soldered on?

 

[Rudyard]

View attachment 197138View attachment 197139View attachment 197140
View attachment 197150
Does anyone know how these tube sights are made and attached?

Another observation is that the pans of these guns are all slightly forward of the breech plug. Would they have still been dovetailed or soldered on?

Boring or smithing likely only historical option braze could be bit overkill but possible but expect solder would be used . I do when needed . If thats any help Regards Rudyard

 

[Arquebusier]

View attachment 197138View attachment 197139View attachment 197140
View attachment 197150
Does anyone know how these tube sights are made and attached?

Another observation is that the pans of these guns are all slightly forward of the breech plug. Would they have still been dovetailed or soldered on?

I wonder if a dovetail blank was used behind the pan on these guns. The tube rear sight was dovetailed in from the rear of the barrel and held in place by the breech plug.

Part of the pan on this petronel extends further back.

 

[TobJohn]

I wonder if a dovetail blank was used behind the pan on these guns. The tube rear sight was dovetailed in from the rear of the barrel and held in place by the breech plug.

Part of the pan on this petronel extends further back.
View attachment 197202

The patina of all the ones I posted could have also covered up the dovetail seams.

 

[Pukka Bundook]

John,
Its interesting in your photographs above, how the breechplug has shoulders filed to the shape of the barrel , like we would later see on guns with a hooked breech. rather unusual and what makes these old guns so fascinating!