I pin the trigger into the wood first and then elongate the front end of the trigger plate slot so that it stops the trigger when there's still a rearward slant to the trigger. Personally, I don't like the looks of a forward slanted trigger. The trigger bar has an insert of high speed steel silver soldered at the point of sear bar contact for no wear and very smooth operation. I time the trigger so that there's a little pretravel {slop} in the half and full cock postions ensuring full engagement of the sear w/ the tumbler notches. The Chambers flintlocks w/ the same sear bar locations in both the full and half cock positions allow for a very small amount of pretravel. The trigger bar has sufficient wood clearance to eliminate any interference from swollen wood later on. I make my triggers from .100 thick steel and they're guided by the pin and trigger plate slot. Washers aren't necessary....Fred