Single set trigger

[Newguy]

Hello all have a friend that got a 50 Lancaster with a chambers large siler lock single set trigger. Issue is lack of consistent fire. You can hear hammer click but doesn’t fire the ****. But if you reset trigger it will fire on second pull. It did work 4-5 times correctly after issue was found,but then returned back to original problem. I do not know the maker but it is a very nice rifle. And I’m a double trigger man myself so I have zero knowledge on the subject. Thanks everyone for any information.

 

[godutch]

If you could get us a pic of that trigger someone here will know what it is. I think that'd be the first step in getting some insight on the problem.

 

[Newguy]

If you could get us a pic of that trigger someone here will know what it is. I think that'd be the first step in getting some insight on the problem.

Yes sir great suggestion thank you. I’m assuming both in and out of the gun would be best?

 

[Phil Coffins]

Yes, and tuning and or clean and oil the lock maybe all it needs.

 

[Harry Marinakis]

Remove the trigger assembly and clean thoroughly. Check the spring.

 

[BoomStick]

A single set trigger may work best if set before taking to half-****. They generally only fire when set (unlike the 2 trigger set where it fires set or unset) so the trigger unset may be putting slight pressure on the arm of the sear.

 

[Newguy]

A single set trigger may work best if set before taking to half-****. They generally only fire when set (unlike the 2 trigger set where it fires set or unset) so the trigger unset may be putting slight pressure on the arm of the sear.

So I thought the same thing when it first happened, that there had to be a little “trick” to it. But we tried before after and at half-****. It really blew me away.

 

[Newguy]

Remove the trigger assembly and clean thoroughly. Check the spring.

That was really my question could the hammer be weak or dirty. Thank you

 

[Newguy]

A single set trigger may work best if set before taking to half-****. They generally only fire when set (unlike the 2 trigger set where it fires set or unset) so the trigger unset may be putting slight pressure on the arm of the sear.

Thank you sir

 

[Newguy]

Yes, and tuning and or clean and oil the lock maybe all it needs.

Yes sir we are going to try that. Thank you

 

[Norman Brooks]

You may have a wood clearance problem. If the **** does not go back far enough to let the fly slide in front of the sear you will get a half **** hang up, which will break something.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I was thinking along the lines of @Norman Brooks. I was thinking the sear arm in the lock is too long and dragging on the wood in the lock mortise. The other likelihood is that the heavy spring driving the set trigger lever is needs to be a turn tighter. I can only speculate since I can't see the triggers or the internal view of the lock mortise.

 

[Newguy]

I was thinking along the lines of @Norman Brooks. I was thinking the sear arm in the lock is too long and dragging on the wood in the lock mortise. The other likelihood is that the heavy spring driving the set trigger lever is needs to be a turn tighter. I can only speculate since I can't see the triggers or the internal view of the lock mortise.

 

[BoomStick]

So it's kinda hard to see if there's grunge, or a dark spot, or is there a fly on the tumbler? Trigger looks like a Cain single set (I had a gun with one). But the lock must have a fly for a single or double set trigger to work.

 

[Newguy]

So it's kinda hard to see if there's grunge, or a dark spot, or is there a fly on the tumbler? Trigger looks like a Cain single set (I had a gun with one). But the lock must have a fly for a single or double set trigger to work.

So it's kinda hard to see if there's grunge, or a dark spot, or is there a fly on the tumbler? Trigger looks like a Cain single set (I had a gun with one). But the lock must have a fly for a single or double set trigger to work.

So should we take the tumbler off to check for a fly? I can’t see in the picture myself. But no fly would mean it can only fall to half-**** correct?

 

[Grenadier1758]

Need a better look to see if there is a fly in that lock. Pull the hammer to full ****. Holding the hammer to control the fall, lift the sear to release the hammer from full ****. as the hammer rotates slightly out of the full **** notch the nose of the sear should ride along the tumbler. The nose of the sear should follow the tumbler past the half **** notch as the fly will lift the sear over the half **** notch. The tumbler then will rotate to the full down position. If the sear does not stop during this slow release, you have a fly.

It's time to put some marking agent (lipstick? candle soot?) on the tip of the sear lever and install the lock back in the mortise. Work the lock and after removal, look for markings in the lock mortise where the tip of the sear may be rubbing. If there is a mark, then some wood may have to be removed, or the sear arm needs to be shortened.

The trigger will have to be removed from the stock to see if the strong spring that drives the release lever needs to be tightened.

From the original description, the sear is not being struck hard enough to lift the nose of the sear out of the full **** notch. Either the sear lever is dragging on wood inside the lock mortise, or the sear is not being struck hard enough by the release lever in the trigger.

 

[BoomStick]

You should be able to see it under the bridle. Rotate to full ****, it may be visible through the bridle or look at the lock from underneath. If missing or damaged the fly can be replaced. It looks like an LR Durs Egg lock, which should have a fly (or current ones do).

 

[Newguy]

Need a better look to see if there is a fly in that lock. Pull the hammer to full ****. Holding the hammer to control the fall, lift the sear to release the hammer from full ****. as the hammer rotates slightly out of the full **** notch the nose of the sear should ride along the tumbler. The nose of the sear should follow the tumbler past the half **** notch as the fly will lift the sear over the half **** notch. The tumbler then will rotate to the full down position. If the sear does not stop during this slow release, you have a fly.

It's time to put some marking agent (lipstick? candle soot?) on the tip of the sear lever and install the lock back in the mortise. Work the lock and after removal, look for markings in the lock mortise where the tip of the sear may be rubbing. If there is a mark, then some wood may have to be removed, or the sear arm needs to be shortened.

The trigger will have to be removed from the stock to see if the strong spring that drives the release lever needs to be tightened.

From the original description, the sear is not being struck hard enough to lift the nose of the sear out of the full **** notch. Either the sear lever is dragging on wood inside the lock mortise, or the sear is not being struck hard enough by the release lever in the trigger.

Thank you we will give that a try and let you know the results. Thank you for all the help

 

[Newguy]

You should be able to see it under the bridle. Rotate to full ****, it may be visible through the bridle or look at the lock from underneath. If missing or damaged the fly can be replaced. It looks like an LR Durs Egg lock, which should have a fly (or current ones do).

Thank you Is that a good lock? In your opinion?

 

[Grenadier1758]

That looks like a very good lock to me.

It is also possible that the bridle that covers the tumbler and the sear lever is overtightened and binding on the tumbler or the sear lever. Burrs on moving parts may be interfering with the release of the tumbler.