Single trigger installation....

[GANGGREEN]

All of the triggers that I've previously installed (single and double) were pinned to the triggerplate and basically just required you to inlet to the proper depth and drill, tap and thread with the tang bolt. I'm working on a Chamber's kit right now and it's got just a free-floating single trigger and a trigger plate with a slot through it. Do I pin the trigger through the lock mortise first or inlet and bolt the triggerplate first, then pin the trigger to the appropriate depth? Do I pre-drill the hole in the trigger's hinge pin area or drill it when I drill through the stock (seems like it might be difficult to hit it perfectly that way)?

Does anyone have an particular tips or advice? I don't think it will be difficult and I don't really anticipate any issues, but as I said, I've never done it this way and don't want to overlook anything.

 

[BV]

The trigger plate needs to go in first. I drilled mine through the stock because I didn't see much of hitting a predrilled hole.

 

[GANGGREEN]

Thanks, triggerplate will go in first then. As for hitting the hinge on the trigger, isn't there probably enough wiggle room here that you can place the trigger wherever your hole goes through the stock (assuming you were careful when you measured and drilled it through the stock)? I mean, 1/64" or something isn't going to matter and there are ways to tweak the trigger bar/sear engagement. I'm just nervous that I'd somehow miss the hinge and put it halfway in and halfway out if I drill it with the trigger in the stock.

The trigger plate needs to go in first. I drilled mine through the stock because I didn't see much of hitting a predrilled hole.

 

[EC121]

After deciding where you want the trigger pin, drill the lock inlet side with the trigger in place to mark the trigger metal. Then remove the trigger and drill the trigger hole. Replace the trigger and use the holes(wood and trigger) for a guide to drill the rest of the way.

 

[Spikebuck]

You want your pin to be within 1/4" of the sear location and at an even level, or perhaps even a tad above that for leverage, if you like a light, crisp pull. As stated, make sure you have the bottom of your stock to the finished level and inlet the trigger plate. So that you don't have a "floppy" trigger, I inlet my plate so when the trigger will be in it's normal "resting" position, it sits against the front of the trigger plate slot. I also make sure that, when the trigger is in the position, the part of the trigger that will touch the sear is at least as high as the bottom of the sear location....higher is OK because you can file it down. Then I determine and drill the pin location in the wood and mark the trigger plate for drilling. Then re-insert it and drill all the way through. I put the assembly together and file the trigger plate down to the correct level to it's just below the sear level, but not putting upward pressure on it. This gives you a nice solid trigger so it's not floppy and the proper leverage for a nice light crisp pull.

If you want a picture or two, I can probably take some to illustrate. Let me know. I am in the process of assembling a Chambers kit where I've done this process already, but the gun isn't complete, so it might show it better.

 

[GANGGREEN]

No, good information and I don't think I need photos, although I appreciate the offer.

 

[BV]

After deciding where you want the trigger pin, drill the lock inlet side with the trigger in place to mark the trigger metal. Then remove the trigger and drill the trigger hole. Replace the trigger and use the holes(wood and trigger) for a guide to drill the rest of the way.

That is what I did. I stopped when I got to the trigger and made sure the hole where I wanted it, then finished drilling.

 

[Col. Batguano]

Do you have the books; "Recreating the American Long Rifle" and "The Gunsmith of Grenville County"? Lots of good tips in there for all manner of questions you will have.

 

[GANGGREEN]

I do have Gunsmith of Grenville County and I usually refer to it as I go, but hadn't checked this section before posting the question. Guess I've built enough that I'm full enough of myself that I think I know what I'm doing now. My problem is that I have a terrible, terrible memory (lingering effect of Lyme disease) and it's like I'm building my first gun each and every time. My control and ability to use the tools improves, but I don't remember the individual functions any better. Good advice though and I will refer to Grenville and see what they suggest about the trigger inletting as well.

Do you have the books; "Recreating the American Long Rifle" and "The Gunsmith of Grenville County"? Lots of good tips in there for all manner of questions you will have.

 

[Col. Batguano]

"Recreating the American Long Rifle" I believe is a bit better book. There aren't as many pictures in there as " Gunsmith of Grenville" but at this stage in your career, (after 1-2-3 guns) I think you're a bit beyond it anyway. Most of the stuff in there you will already know, but there are also pictures, decoration, and design tips that may be helpful when you're planning the fun part of the build--your decorations and embellishments.