Small Gap .23MM Breech to stock

[Tre4]

Building my First ML Flintlock, went with a almost completed Kit. Everything Looks good, However, I went to Screw the Lock in place, one of the screws was more difficult to turn than I thought it should be. Turns out, when i tighten that screws it pulls the barrel forward slightly (Off the Breech). This creates a .23MM (2 pieces of paper) Gap. For one, I don't like the gab because I am worried about recoil causing damage, and I Feel it might be putting recoil stress mostly on the Lock screw, and I don’t like the stress on the Lock end threads. So, with how the Tang bolt (that goes into the lock) is oriented with Lock placement, the barrel cannot afford to go back AT ALL.


Hopefully I am explaining this clearly. Is a gap this small and issue? I assume its not good to have the Tang screw (horizontal screw going into the Lock) taking all the recoil.

Being how thin the Gap is, I am thinking of Bedding it with Epoxy, I have read up on this and know what to do. But before I bed this, could there be better methods? or Leave it alone?

Thanks!

 

[The Appalachian]

Whatever is binding your lock bolt inside needs to be relieved. Do that and it likely won't "pull" the barrel forward.

I want zero gap on my tang to wood fit, and you surely don't want just a lock bolt taking recoil.

 

[Tre4]

My first thoughts, explored this extensively. Unfortunately, nothing is binding on the Lock, it sits in great, put trasfer fluid on everything.... Having the Lock move back a tad would prevent the barrel from moving but obviously that would cause other issues, and the horizontal whole in the stock wont line up anymore as its already to its max.. I think bedding the Breech, or attach a metal shim from a feeler gauge to the barrel is all I have. Next time ill be more careful inletting the breech..

I appreciate your Insite!

 

[Phil Coffins]

Agreed! Fix the problem and leave the epoxy out.

 

[Sean E Bug]

put inletting black on the barrel. then put the screw in and tighten. take it apart and remove metal from where the bolt is contacting the barrel. lots of original guns had notches in the barrels to accommodate lock bolts.

 

[Tre4]

put inletting black on the barrel. then put the screw in and tighten. take it apart and remove metal from where the bolt is contacting the barrel. lots of original guns had notches in the barrels to accommodate lock bolts.

I think this is it. Was just thinking to clearance the tang screw hole a bit.

I’m not sure it should hold recoil, and and recoil on this screw could damage the stock. So, I think making this hole a little bigger won’t hurt anything?

Thanks for the reply!

 

[Tre4]

And miss understood the first reply. I think everyone is spot on. Going to go this route.

 

[The Appalachian]

I think making this hole a little bigger won’t hurt anything?

This is what I meant above. Just enough clearance on the bolt hole through and through so the bolt(s) don't bind when installed. I think if you relieve the pressure on the bolt that makes it "difficult to install", your issue will go away.

 

[waksupi]

Enlarge the hole. Don't over tighten the lock bolt. You're not building a bridge.

 

[Eric Krewson]

Agreed, lock bolts are supposed to be snug not tightened.

 

[Johnny Too-Tall]

If its moving the barrel 99.99% chance the lock hole in breech isn't aligned right and moving the barrel. Make the hole a tad bigger issue solved.

 

[Wncman]

Building my First ML Flintlock, went with a almost completed Kit. Everything Looks good, However, I went to Screw the Lock in place, one of the screws was more difficult to turn than I thought it should be. Turns out, when i tighten that screws it pulls the barrel forward slightly (Off the Breech). This creates a .23MM (2 pieces of paper) Gap. For one, I don't like the gab because I am worried about recoil causing damage, and I Feel it might be putting recoil stress mostly on the Lock screw, and I don’t like the stress on the Lock end threads. So, with how the Tang bolt (that goes into the lock) is oriented with Lock placement, the barrel cannot afford to go back AT ALL.


Hopefully I am explaining this clearly. Is a gap this small and issue? I assume its not good to have the Tang screw (horizontal screw going into the Lock) taking all the recoil.

Being how thin the Gap is, I am thinking of Bedding it with Epoxy, I have read up on this and know what to do. But before I bed this, could there be better methods? or Leave it alone?

Thanks!

Is this the lock bolt through the breech ?
If so, you might relieve the hole in the breech. That might allow it to not move the barrel/tang forward.

 

[Tre4]

Wow, you all are awesome. I really tried to find an answer for this, but was difficult with my lack of terminology and experience.

Everything is fixed. I think in the end, my tang bold was slightly misaligned from the beginning, and really confused me. Only a very small amount needed clearanced.

Thanks!