Stitching Question...

[SpottedBull]

There are some talented "leatherin" folks here on this forum, and I was wondering about something. When you get to the end of your row of stitches, how do you all finish off the thread?
I will always make sure that I have enough thread left over to "back stitch" at least three holes with each needle and then just cut the thread off really close to the leather, usually on the back side of the project. Some times, if its the body of a bag and I badly misjudged how much thread I needed, I will leave the ends of the thread inside the bag or inside a seam and cut it off there after the back stitches.

 

[LRB]

That's about it. In some situations, you can use a tiny drop of super glue, but I would not recommend that for stress areas or where it might be seen.

 

[BrownBear]

Yeah, back stitch for me too. Maybe I'm lucky, but I've never had any work loose, no matter the leather or the project. I tend to use 2 stitches for heavier leather and 3 for softer. This book was the greatest thing ever to hit my workbench. Real authoritative and helpful in very few pages with great drawings.

Only thing not in that book is something Wick contributed to help neaten up my stitches. He can explain it much better than I can, but the key phrase is "over and under" for your stitches. I wouldn't bug him to explain again if I could find it in his past posts and link you to it, but no dice. Great stuff. After switching to the over-and-under technique he introduced to me here, people always ask me if I sew with a machine. Never happened before that! :rotf:

 

[LaBonte]

The "industry" standard has long been 2 1/2 or 3 1/2 backstitches 0- by half it means both threads end on the back side....pull hard on the thread ends and clip right at the surface - you will get just enough pull back so you won't see the thread ends, If well waxed or waxed/pitched then the threads will not pull out..

 

[crockett]

Same with me. When I started I wanted to "make sure" so I was knotting, putting on the glue dab, etc. but then got my mind right and did the back stitch and trim, one thread back 2 1/2 and the other back 3 1/2- if that makes sense. As stated, trim both on the back side of the project. Never had any thing unravel. The professional way to do it.

 

[crockett]

And... just to cause trouble.. :stir: :stir: What we have discussed is when you are putting a needle on both ends of a string and stitching like you would lace up a pair of shoes. HOWEVER, in some photos of bags and sheaths, etc.- it looks to me that many had a very simple running stitch, in and out each hole- the style that when viewed from one side you only see the lace/thread every other set of holes. I don't know how that style begins or ends. What I have done is take the tag ends on back and thread them under three prior stitches but whether that is the HC correct method of not- I don't know.

 

[SpottedBull]

What we have discussed is when you are putting a needle on both ends of a string and stitching like you would lace up a pair of shoes.

Kinda, except both needles go through the same hole from opposite sides, called a saddle stitch. That's the very best way to stitch.

But heck I haven't worn lace up shoes in so long I can't remember. My old boots don't have laces!

 

[SpottedBull]

Only thing not in that book is something Wick contributed to help neaten up my stitches. He can explain it much better than I can, but the key phrase is "over and under" for your stitches. I wouldn't bug him to explain again if I could find it in his past posts and link you to it, but no dice. Great stuff. After switching to the over-and-under technique he introduced to me here, people always ask me if I sew with a machine. Never happened before that! :rotf:

I think I know what you mean here. An old timer once told me to always stitch from the same side. Like always put the right needle through the hole first. And when you do, pull it tight and lift it up and hold it. Then insert the left side needle in the hole under the thread sticking out. Do it every time. That and a nice groove from a groover will make 'em look nice and straight. I've actually had to demonstrate once how I did it, because a fella didn't believe that I was hand stitching!

 

[crockett]

Yeah, that shoe lace thing was a little off- the needles go through the same hole but from opposite sides. I think on the back stitching, it may be that the needles pierce the stitching already in the hole and in that manner lock everything together.

 

[Capt. Jas.]

You should not pierce your threads going back. Each saddle stitch should be creating a knot inside the hole.
A good stitch for sewing up bags that will be turned in lieu of the saddle stitch is the back stitch..

 

[BrownBear]

If you're using a blade-type awl, the leather slowly closes back up and really grips the thread, too. Learned that the hard way- poked a few holes for sewing, then got distracted for a few days. Could hardly get the first needle through, and the second was nigh onto impossible.

 

[smo]

Thanks for the tip Capt. :thumbsup: I will give it a try.

 

[crockett]

Yeah, don't punch holes that removes material, the awl pierces and pushes material aside that will close back up over time. If I'm doing a long row of stitches I've put little brads into the holes to keep them open and I remove a brad at a time as I get up to that particular hole. This is very helpful on soft leather like brain tan.
On pulling the needles through tight holes such as back stitching, use a pair of pliers if need be but be careful you don't snap/break the needle.

 

[SpottedBull]

On pulling the needles through tight holes such as back stitching, use a pair of pliers if need be but be careful you don't snap/break the needle.

I was sitting in my easy chair, stitching a bag one night. The needle was a little hard to get through the layers of leather, so I was holding it close to the eye ands wiggling it to get it through, while pulling. Well, when it decided to come on through, I stuck about 1/2" of that needle into my belly...

Yeah, it hurt.

 

[crockett]

Well, maybe I have a weak grip but I've used pliers on occasion- usually just at the end of the job when I am trying to run the needle through a hole that has already been stitched. Pull straight, if you pull at an angle you'll snap the needle in two.
The other trick of the trade- as I said- is in brain tan or soft type leather. If you pierce a hole the hole tends to close up quick or it is hard to see due to the soft material. If you use sinew you keep one end of the sinew dry- sort of an integral "needle" but it isn't strong enough to push on very hard so I put very small brads into the holes made by an awl and then pull out a brad and run the sinew through the hole while I can see the hole, then pull out the next brad, and run the sinew, then the next brad- like that.

 

[BrownBear]

...I stuck about 1/2" of that needle into my belly...

Yeah, it hurt.

That's a dandy trick. Goes into the mix with other ways to DNA-mark your gear. :applause:

 

[R.I.Jerolmon]

I've got an old pair of 4" long pliers with smooth jaws. They dont mark up the needles to make the next job harder and the short length minimizes the "angle" pull that breaks needles. A pair of glovers needles often work well on soft leather, sharp tip does not require the awl hole. They will stick you quicker and deeper than a blunt harness needle!!

 

[drwatson1873]

And, if those glovers' needles are nice and new, the edges will slice you as well. If you use just your fingers to pull them through, make sure you have a good grip. Make that a really good grip (or have the band-aids and cussbox handy). Great tools for soft leather as noted, but watch out for the edges. (Yes, I learned this one the hard way, too...)

 

[BrownBear]

One thing I've found with glover's needles, they need sharpening and a touch of rouge now and then, just like awls. If you do that, they're sure a lot easier to get through the leather and less likely to require pliers or a hard grip with your fingers.

 

[Shotgun232]

If you are using nylon or polyester thread, simple tie a overhand knot and then melt the ends with a lighter. I usually mash the whole bit down with the side of the lighter, while it is still hot.

This only works for manmade threads through, which I tend to use more now, since they last a lot longer and will not rot out. not PC though.