Using a combination of heat & cold can break the rust bond free. Heat will expand the joint between the two. Also vibration from impact will loosen up the rust bond. Place your nipple wrench on the nipple and tap on it a few times with a 4 oz ball peen hammer no need to go ape on it just many little taps then try to remove the nipple. Applying downward pressure from a drill press will keep the nipple wrench firmly engaged with the nipple will also help from marring up the nipple and slipping off of it.
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Stripped screw help
- Thread starter stevie
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Buffaloman
32 Cal
I have success using an impact driver and or oscillating tool to loosen rusty nuts, bolts etc. The oscillating tool sets up high frequency vibrations that allows penetration oil to seep down quickly. You don't have to cut any metal just use it as a vibrator. I use two penetrating oils. Free All and Kroll. Both are available in auto stores. Free All is less expensive and has been my go to oil for 20+ years.
I have been a motorcycle mechanic and IBM repair technician for decades, I have several 3/8" impact drivers and will have to find a 1/4" impact driver shown above. They are wonderful. My suggestions in order: High quality proper fitting tool/bit/socket. Penetrating oil/solvent with time and vibration (hammer,ultrasonic cleaner). Temperature change with more penetrating fluid . Impact tool or more leverage stopping short of what will twist the fastener apart (good luck with that). Never heard of the rubber band trick, but I have used an abrasive paste (valve grinding compound) to improve tool grip. One of the benefits of a hammer activated impact driver is that the internal cam forces the bit into the fastener head as it twists and vibrates.
I never thought of freezing. Thanks for that little tip. I've used heat many times but that can be damaging.
Sam squanch
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I’ve tried a screwdriver bit chucked in a drill press- unplugged! Have someone hold down the handle to force the bit in the slot , and turn the chuck- I made a modification to a wrench to fit the drill chuck, usually works after the kroil treatment.
I've always had luck with the freezer method, being as how I don't own a torch. Carol isn't too crazy about the idea though. I think she's afraid I'll get oil in "her" freezer.
Sam squanch
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Wrap the item up to look like a steak......butcher paper is your friend.
What about PB Blaster? I’ve never used it on a gun before but many of seized and bound up screws, bolts and nuts. I don’t know how caustic is on bluing but penetrates like o other liquid I’m aware of.
Got a can of Marvels Mystery Oil myself, an inheritance from my tool maker father.
Marvels Mystery Oil is not a penetrating oil. It is a lot thicker than penetrating oil's are.
It's benefits and use remain a Mystery.
It's benefits and use remain a Mystery.
Some claim acetone and transmission fluid mixed 50/50 out performed products like Kroil. Make Your Own Kick-*** Penetrating Oil
glad to hear that! so I am not alone in posting it. I am in that over 70++++++ group, so I remember it and still use it. now every thing comes in ARESOL CANS/ SPRAY NO LIQUOD.
so tell them that. and read the can. it is indeed a penetrant! used for loosing frozen parts, ETC.Marvels Mystery Oil is not a penetrating oil. It is a lot thicker than penetrating oil's are.
It's benefits and use remain a Mystery.
I've used this for years. Works great
appalichian hunter
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Soak it in kerosene for about a week, always worked for me on rusted parts.
Marvels Mystery Oil = Good Stuff 
