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Stuck clean out screw

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The clean out screw on my GPR takes an Allen wrench. Along with ant seize, never had a problem getting it out.
Clean out screw......That is what its there for, right? So I use it.

What that screw at the end of the drum or on the side of the patent breech is a manufacturing shortcut to drill the flash hole from the nipple seat to the powder chamber. And after the flash channel is drilled a screw is installed as a plug. It is handy to give it a new function and recommend the removal of the plug to facilitate cleaning. Note: After T/C replaced so many of the "clean up screws" on their breech, the process to drill the flash hole was changed and there was no longer a clean out screw. Some original drum and nipple percussion breeches have the "clean out" screws. Many do not. If proper care is taken, removal of the plug and nipple will make access to the flash channel for cleaning more acceptable. Be sure to always use a never seize lubricant on the threads of the what is now a clean out screw and the nipple. It is important to properly tighten these threaded items to the snug level of torque for easy removal when removal is warranted.

So Ames is correct. Once the rifle is completed and determined suitable for use, that screw is there as a clean out screw if you wish to use it for that purpose.
 
I guess it's worth noting that nipples are usually made of a corrosion resistant metal. Clean out screws are not.
 
The so called clean out screw doesn't need to be removed to clean your barrel. In fact, if the hole is tapped to deep, then you could screw it in deep enough to block the flash hole from your nipple. I remove the nipple every time I clean my gun and put a couple wraps of teflon tape on the threads for easy removal and no thread wear. Just take care not to cross thread when screwing the nipple back in.
 
I clean mine every time. And if you do they come out with no issues. Forget a time or two and you'll be drilling! BTW when one dry balls and one will, I have found it MUCH easier to get a bit of powder through the clean out screw hole than the nipple, its a straight shot.

To each his own. Now whats the best patch material? LOL (sorry),
 
Boiling water is not a help. Metal expands with heat. If you are cleaning your barrel by removing it, let it set in a bucket of warm soapy water a few minutes. Do most of the barrel cleaning first by flushing the water in and out of the barrel, then remove the nipple and flush some more water through the barrel. Usually by then the clean out screw will be ready to remove.
 
Thanks for all the responses. Looks like there's no real need for working on getting that pesky screw out. I always use those pipe cleaners to brush out the flash channel. No problem doing it through the hole for the nipple.
I always use a dab of breech plug grease on the nipple threads before I reinstall it.
 
Dumb question, but if it is not a "clean-out screw" for cleaning, what is its true purpose? (and, I'd rather shoot a flintlock.)

Tom
 
:doh: Thanks to all that remove the "clean out screw" it make me money for me as a gunsmith. most really screw up the removal by having screw frozen treads then have to drill out screw or they screwed up head if screw :ThankYou:.
 
I had on e the other day come into my shop with a clean up screw that would not budge. I removed the nipple and filled the drum with liquid wrench and let set for about an hour then with my screwdriver held firmly in the slot lightly tapped the the handle with a hammer whilst applying moderate force counterclockwise. The screw came right out unharmed.
 
In the "tool and die" world, which threads are easier to clean black powder fouling from ?
From personal experience I have found ‘fine threads’, 1/4- 28 vs 1/4-20 for example, easier to to work with and providing a better seal in a variety of hostile/corrosive applications, provided threads were assembled with a thread lubricant. Call it an opinion based on experience. Also interesting that black powder barrel makers use finer threads for nipples and touch liners? Could they all be wrong?

Curious as to why, other than taking your usual negative argument point of view, what your reason for disagreeing is? Would love to hear about your actual personal experience. And I apologize for bringing my tool and die experience into the muzzleloading world. Guess it doesn’t apply here. Curious, what is your background and experience? I am always willing to learn from others.
 
It's rare to find What you call "clean out screws" on the East side of the Pond as most of our Cap guns were made as cap guns. Flint guns were rarely converted as the new invention was so cheap with so many makers scrabelling for a living in the post war years. The hole the makers drilled to access the chamber from the nipple hole was usually plugged with Iron or German (Nickel) Silver or on best guns Platina(a platinum alloy) ..OLD DOG
 
Greenswlde Old bean I could never figure how they drilled such fine holes or slots in the Platina plugs . Every FME tells you there blow out plugs but I much doubt it . The Platina vents must work I stocked up an old very well worn barrel by Henry Tatham . orig vent still intact and serviceable just the Brl rest all my make up to use it .
Cheers Rudyard
 
I have removed a few stuck clean out screws by first putting masking tape around screw and then using a small chisel on the edge tap it out ,you ruin the screw but track of wolf has them and ace hardware has gun screw assortment
 
You’ll find most clean out screws are nearly impossible to remove, I just ignore them and move on. However I do remove my nipple each and ever time I clean.

This is what I do also. Get plenty of suction and cleaning power sitting it in a bucket of water and just pulling up and down on the cleaning rod with a strip of cloth on it.
 
The nipple hole is bigger.
If you do get it out, you can use T/C Bore Butter on the threads prior to screwing it back in the drum. There is also a grease for rifles that works well keeping the screw easy to take out.
No need to remove the screw. Just put the breech in hot soapy water and insert cleaning rod with a cleaning patch. By pumping the rod up and down it will create a slush pump effect
Do it several times,dry patch an lube.
 
From personal experience I have found ‘fine threads’, 1/4- 28 vs 1/4-20 for example, easier to to work with and providing a better seal in a variety of hostile/corrosive applications, provided threads were assembled with a thread lubricant. Call it an opinion based on experience. Also interesting that black powder barrel makers use finer threads for nipples and touch liners? Could they all be wrong?

Curious as to why, other than taking your usual negative argument point of view, what your reason for disagreeing is? Would love to hear about your actual personal experience. And I apologize for bringing my tool and die experience into the muzzleloading world. Guess it doesn’t apply here. Curious, what is your background and experience? I am always willing to learn from others.

When I said "fine threads" I was referring to the size difference of the clean-out screw. Don't get bogged down with useless details.
The point is that, clean-out screws have a tendency to seize and become "permanent", so it's just best to view that little screw as permanent in the first place.

I am always willing to learn from others.

Me too, I'm also trying to save people the headache of a stuck screw and a buggered up screw head for no reason.
You know, that whole "learn from others mistakes thing".
 
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