I bought a .45 TC Hawken from a member here and checked it over the day I got it so I went and shot it today. After I wad done shooting I was going to start cleaning it. I took the barrel off and got out my nipple wrench to take off the nipple and it won't budge. I hadn't taken that nipple off before which was probably a bad idea but here I am with a fouled rifle and stuck nipple. I went ahead and cleaned it with the nipple in then soaked the breech in a bucket of hot soapy water thinking that might work. Still, it won't budge I even tried a different wrench but with no amount of force could I get it out. I've tried pliers and vise grips with no luck. I don't care how I get it out I just don't want to damage the threads in the bolster. I could really care less if the nipple is salvaged. What do you guys suggest in this situation?
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Stuck Nipple (Advice Needed)
- Thread starter luieb45
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I've used a product called "PB Blaster" with good success, as well as Kroil. Both were better than Liquid Wrench. Biggest thing seems to be to let is soak (inside and outside) for a couple of days.
Hardest thing for you will be if you mangle the top so much in your tries that there's little to get hold of. I helped a friend who'd done that, and we ended up drilling the nipple, then using an easy out.
Hardest thing for you will be if you mangle the top so much in your tries that there's little to get hold of. I helped a friend who'd done that, and we ended up drilling the nipple, then using an easy out.
rafterob
62 Cal.
Get some Kroil or another penetrating oil. Find a small cup or container just big enough around to fit the breech. Figure out some way to secure the barrel in this cup so it won't fall over. Fill the little cup with Kroil to cover the nipple area. Let it set a few days then try it. If that doesn't work try a little heat around the bolster area.
I bought some liquid wrench and put it in a cup to soak in the garage for a few days. I also put some on the inside so it would be soaking from all directions. If this doesn't work what would my second option be? My gunsmith might know something but he really doesn't work on muzzleloaders anymore but he worked with percussions back when they were popular 20 years ago.
ohio ramrod
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Kroil soaking and if needed a little "hot wrench" has always gotten anything loose for me. When I get a neglected percusion gun to work on I automaticly spray the breech area with kroil, put a soft rubber ear plug over the nipple and let the hammer sit on it, Spray the inside of the bore heavily and let it set with the breech down for twentyfour or more hours. Then the nipple, cleanout screws, and if needed the drums, come out with little problem. On the rare occasions they don't a touch of the propane torch will finish the job. I always use nipple wrenches and NEVER USE VISEGRIPS on guns. :hmm: :nono:
Make sure that the clean-out screw isn't turned in too far, locking the nipple in place. In fact, take it out right now, just keep track of it.
RUSELLLEEDORAN
32 Cal.
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Luie,
Does this one by chance have a GM replacement barrel? My son got a good deal on a TC .50 Hawken with a drop in GM barrel. He had the same complaint. I had him bring it home to Dad and I noticed it has a set screw holding in the nipple. With that out, it was a piece of cake.
Fuzzy
Does this one by chance have a GM replacement barrel? My son got a good deal on a TC .50 Hawken with a drop in GM barrel. He had the same complaint. I had him bring it home to Dad and I noticed it has a set screw holding in the nipple. With that out, it was a piece of cake.
Fuzzy
I'll vote a 2nd to Ohio ramrod's advice to the T.
54ball
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As stated above let the rifle soak in penetrating oil. Again make sure the clean out screw has not locked the nipple. Be sure when you remove the clean out screw you use a hollow ground screwdriver that fits the slot. The hardware variety flat head may work but it will booger the screw. Use either a gunsmith screwdriver or a simple chuck driver tip from a drill or hand driver set. The flat head chuck drivers are hollow ground just like a gunsmith driver.
One thing that has not been mentioned is tapping the nipple or screw. A lot of the time a stuck bolt or screw needs to woken up with a few light taps as torque is applied. On the clean out screw tap the end of the driver, on the nipple tap the nipple itself as you use the wrench.
One thing that has not been mentioned is tapping the nipple or screw. A lot of the time a stuck bolt or screw needs to woken up with a few light taps as torque is applied. On the clean out screw tap the end of the driver, on the nipple tap the nipple itself as you use the wrench.
I just cringed when I saw you had used pliers and vice grips on the nipple already. Hard to advise at this point. 
However, if the nipple wrench (a good one what encases the nipple) will still fit, I would do the penetrating oil thing then put the barrel in a big vice and use a 'cheater' extension on the nipple wrench and apply all the gut strength you have. Or drill it out and break up a bit at a time to remove.
However, if the nipple wrench (a good one what encases the nipple) will still fit, I would do the penetrating oil thing then put the barrel in a big vice and use a 'cheater' extension on the nipple wrench and apply all the gut strength you have. Or drill it out and break up a bit at a time to remove.Nope, factory TC barrel. It shoots as accurate as a Green Mt. though. When I was shooting it yesterday I shot a quarter size group at 25 yards :shocked2:. Speaking of quarters then I shot a quarter, and a nickel off a hedge post 20 yards off hand.
It didn't booger up the nipple any. The nipple wrench is the standard factory TC and it always fits all my TC's. A CVA fits also but the barrel has to be off to use that one because it's a little tall so the hammer gets in the way.
Luie, If you don't get it out by then, bring it to the Heritage Days rondy and let me give it a try. I'm not a gunsmith but I've been a mechanic for over 25 years so I know how to get stuck threads loose. Haven't found a stuck nipple yet that I couldn't get out.
'Course, now that I said that,... :idunno: :haha:
'Course, now that I said that,... :idunno: :haha:
:applause: :thumbsup:
:applause: :applause:luie b said:
longcruise
70 Cal.
Put a tiny bit of this on the threads when you re-install the nipple. Makes it much easier to remove the next time around.
anti sieze
The previous owner probably cleaned that gun without removing the nipple. :shocked2:
anti sieze
The previous owner probably cleaned that gun without removing the nipple. :shocked2:
Lulieb, glad you got it out. So my suggestion wont be needed after. However if there is a next time, try this , go out to the barn where your mamma cant hear you and give it a good cussin. that may not get the niiple out but it will make you feel better. ( that is probably bad advice but the devil made me do it yahoo) yours hounddog
ohio ramrod
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Hound dog, your advise reminds me of a preacher who bought a used lawn mower at a yard sale. He could not get it started and the boy who sold it said," You just have to cuss at it a little"rThe preacher told the boy he had been a preached for thirty years and had forgot how to cuss. The boy said," just pull on the cord enough times and it will come back to you!" :idunno:
I always use Birchwood Casey choke tube anti seize lube on my gun's nipples and such. I never have a problem but what happened here is I just bought this gun used and didn't take the nipple before I went to the farm for some shootin time. I may be doing it again soon because my uncle wants me to take out one of his muzzleloaders so I can clean it up for him and shoot it(he doesn't take care of them well and hasn't shot it in like 20 years) it's a traditions carbine of some sort and from what I've seen had some rust around the nipple and down the barrel so I've got a lot of work to do :haha:.
