Stuck Nipple

[Eutycus]

It took a little "engineering" for me to remove a stuck/stubborn nipple from a revolver once. I wish I video taped it. I'll see if I can describe the unorthodox procedure.First off this was good weather so it was all outdoors.The homemade wrench kept jumping off the nipple.I could not apply enough downward pressure. Not a perfect fit I guess.So.. A floor jack was placed under the rear bumper of my pickup. Blocks were added between the jack and cylinder then the cylinder with the nipples face up. My homemade socket then went from the nipple through the hole for my hitch.Some configuration of washers were used so only the small tip (with the threads) of the socket came through the hole. The pickup was jacked up a little to apply downward pressure to keep the socket on the nipple A couple of hundred lbs? A small pipe wrench with a 2 ft.cheater pipe turned the socket. It screwed right out. All of this because I didn't have a torch to apply heat.Oh penetrating oil was used too.

 

[Eutycus]

Normally a screwdriver fits right in the other end and that's all it takes. Nipples dont need to be too tight. This was a factory nipple that the Italian gorilla, Luigi, must have put on.

 

[Jappo]

I used to restore antique engines. I used a trick I learned to remove rusted stuck nuts, bolts and screws. So far it’s worked without fail. A nipple wrench that will sit on the base of the nipple. Strike the wrench with a hammer. Lightly at first. Try to turn. If it doesn’t turn loose, increase the strike Just watch them fingers. Make sure the wrench sits on the base and not the cone. A old small socket should work. 1/4” I believe. I’ve used this method to remove stubborn screws on revolvers. Especially the screw that holds the trigger/bolt spring. I use a screwdriver blade. I have special punches I ground down to fit screw heads.

 

[pacanis]

Jappo, that's what I do for slotted screws that neither Kroil nor heat will budge. Sometimes a good whack will break the bond of whatever is gripping it.

 

[Jappo]

Jappo, that's what I do for slotted screws that neither Kroil nor heat will budge. Sometimes a good whack will break the bond of whatever is gripping it.

I learned that in the oil fields. I was a mechanic. There was an old gentleman that taught me a lot. He was a "fix it all". He used to say " if I can't fix it, I'll mess it up so bad, nobody will" except he used another four letter word besides mess hehe

 

[Idaho Ron]

If heat doesn't work then it is applied wrong.
You should never heat the nipple its self. You should heat the metal that the nipple goes into. Ideally the metal is heated fast and in a very concentrated spot, and that swells the metal. The nipple stays cooler so it stays in a smaller state.

 

[Tn mtn man]

Put so.e oil on it then next heat it then turn it it will come out if not tap it a little try again

 

[coupe]

I have always mixed it 10/20% acetone to any atf mostly dextron mercon, or type f if I changed my ford tranny fluid never had a problem with either

 

[chorizo]

@Jappo What I learned in the oil patch was get a BFH. Of course, I was just a roughneck. I don't think that will work in this instance. The right tool, rightly applied works most every time.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I have used this tool to remove some very tightly installed nipples from my revolvers. None of my standard nipple wrenches worked. The pistol one was too small. Of course, copious quantities of penetrating oils were applied. I did have to make the 1/4" hex nut driver. The 3/16" nut driver was the best size for a pistol nipple.

I made two short lengths of rod that fit into the chambers of the cylinders. These were clamped in my large vise to fit into two opposing cylinders. A couple of tap with a light hammer started the nipples turning and out they came.

Harbor Freight no longer has this tool listed in their catalog. I did find a similar tool on Amazon.

 

[Okie Hog]

This is a Traditions nipple wrench, it works with #11 and musket nipples.

https://www.sportsmans.com/shooting...es/traditions-number-11musket-wrench/p/317911

 

[Jappo]

View attachment 195856

I have used this tool to remove some very tightly installed nipples from my revolvers. None of my standard nipple wrenches worked. The pistol one was too small. Of course, copious quantities of penetrating oils were applied. I did have to make the 1/4" hex nut driver. The 3/16" nut driver was the best size for a pistol nipple.

I made two short lengths of rod that fit into the chambers of the cylinders. These were clamped in my large vise to fit into two opposing cylinders. A couple of tap with a light hammer started the nipples turning and out they came.

Harbor Freight no longer has this tool listed in their catalog. I did find a similar tool on Amazon.

Yep, those work also.

 

[Jappo]

@Jappo What I learned in the oil patch was get a BFH. Of course, I was just a roughneck. I don't think that will work in this instance. The right tool, rightly applied works most every time.

Haha, I remember those 3 letters. Put a roughneck in a solid metal box with just a BFH and a pipe wrench and he'll get out.

 

[TNTraveler]

If its rusted bad enough you will break it with to much force, as already stated plug the nipple and fill the bottom of the barrel with a penetrating oil, if you do break it, us an easy out like they use when removing broken bolts, if you strip that out then you have to drill it and retap to a bigger size, if the nipple is that bad odds are the breech is going to be just as bad

 

[Eutycus]

I didn't have a torch so I put the revolver's cylinder in the freezer for a few days. I figured if heat could make metal expand the cold should make it contract

 

[SLOTHEAD]

Yup. Kroil should be on everyone's bench or shelf if your working on BP guns.

Kroil hasn’t worked for me on one of my revolver nipples, and it has been soaking for days! I haven’t tried heating the nipple because the nipple is an inside radius and its expansion would only seat it harder (and I’m not inclined to heat the entire cylinder). I hadn’t thought about a rap with a hammer to shock the rust free so I may try that. I think I destroyed a Slyxprings nipple wrench on it and am expecting a new nipple wrench from TOtW today.

 

[ernbar]

A couple of minutes with a Dremel to modify the socket and you will have a fantastic tool.

 

[RicM]

I have an original 1854 Aston/Johnson single .54 cal ball shot pistol thats in excellent shape but the nipple while still in good form is forever stuck, I tried soaking the barrel in "you name it I used it" even for two days. Tried heat too. Finally gave up, cleaned it and made sure there is no blockage. It shoots fine with no misfires. My biggest fear would be forcing it to the point of snapping it off, then I'm screwed! So I left it be, it shoots with no misfires and I can still clean it and the hole with a proper pick. All the above comments are helpful most I have tried, had in my case the pistol was a replica or beat up non original, I would have chanced it. With my other PC muzzle loaders after a day out shooting, always remove the nipple when cleaning the barrels and also clean the threaded area and the nipples and use anti-seize in the threads. Just snug the nipples back in place.

 

[Granville]

Whats up forum! I posted that and left offshore fishing. I appreciate everyone's input. All I had was a cheap traditions style wrench that would open up and slip. I ended up making one from the 5 mm socket and with the ratchet it worked beautiful. It seems the old wrench was just to soft, thanks again.

 

[Newtire]

Do they, or wouldn’t it be nice if they made a socket type tool to remove old Rusty nipples? My traditional wrench won’t cut it. I think it’s an 11. This is an old 8 Gauge English Fowler…

If the nipple wrench socket doesn't work, try this.

I was presented with many a frozen fastener in my time as an automotive instructor. This method worked on everything that I can remember. We've all heard of the Eazy-Out tool where you drill a hole and drive this splined bit into the hole and presto! Trouble is, when you jam that extractor into the
hole, it expands the stuck bolt, wedging it in even tighter. Better is to drive a set of splines over the stuck fastener. Then, you are squeezing it away from the threads that it's stuck into. I always heat and Kroil the thing first and then drive a sacrificial 12-point socket over the outside and unscrew it by shocking your ratchet with a couple of hammer taps and unscrew it. They make a great set of tools that work like this but they are just too big for a percussion nipple.