Suggestions for staining 'maple' ?

[roundball]

Thought I'd try using loading blocks for the experience of it this fall...the ones I have coming from TOW are listed as being sanded / finished.

So right now, I just want to darkern them some and seal the wood...I know that Tru-Oil darkens walnut the more coats I applied but don't know if I can expect maple to do the same...or if I first need to darken the maple some with actual stain before sealing with Tru-Oil.

So, any advice about staining / sealing maple loading blocks are welcome

 

[rawhide]

true oil will darken it some. if you want it darker I would get a water based stain then cut it with water. if you want it darker ad another coat. best way I can come up with. all depends on how dark you want it to be. I use minwax stains on all my wood work. then true oil or bioled linseed oil. both work well.

 

[roundball]

Thanks...doesn't have to be 'pretty' or match anything...it'll be out of sight anyway...just thought a tad darker might have a bit more eye appeal, hide handling marks better, etc.

Have a couple bottles of Birchwood Casey water base Walnut Stain and Tru-Oil on hand...I'll try just Tru-Oil on one and see how it does...try both on another and see that turns out.
One concern was whether or not maple 'took' common stains like walnut seems to, as I've never worked with maple before.

 

[BrownBear]

...listed as being sanded / finished.

That would be my biggest concern if you're planning on refinishing those. You might not be able to get past the finish without quite a bit of stripping and sanding.

If you're just shaping and drilling your own maple, then finishing, that's not as big a deal.

You'll find the BC water base does fine, long as you want walnut color. I ran out of it some time back and didn't want to wait for more to arrive, so I tried some of the Fiebings leather dye I always have around. And danged if I don't like working with it better. Comes in lots of colors and seem to be fond of most woods.

 

[roundball]

...listed as being sanded / finished.

That would be my biggest concern if you're planning on refinishing those. You might not be able to get past the finish without quite a bit of stripping and sanding.

Well, I just realized I may have had a big misunderstanding...never occurred to me that TOW description meant they had "finish" ON them...I may have mistakenly misunderstood the phrase sanded and fiished to simply mean the woodworking was all done...assumed that meant they would be READY to stain or seal...I'll give TOW a call right now to find out

 

[roundball]

Track is closed...sent them an Email.

If they do in fact have a coat of clear finish on them I'll want to find some place or somebody who has some made up on hand for sale right now, already stained darker and sealed, etc.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Darkening and sealing are, or IMHO, should be separate steps.
Darkening, especially maple, and most especially figured maple, an acid stain is best. Dilute it and apply until desired color is achieved then stop with a neutralizing rinse.
Sealing can be done with a lot of things. BLO is probably the most popular. Real tung oil is great and will last until the dinasauers come back. But tun oil does darken so the staining process should stop just short of desired coloration.
Time consuming, especially with repeated sandings but not really difficult.

 

[Macon Due]

1776
I discovered that 'Vinegaroon' does a pretty nice job on Maple as well. :thumbsup:
Macon

 

[Birdman]

Round ball there are several waxs that cabinet makers use to antique cabinets n tables n such. It comes in several different colors from light to very dark. If ya got a good paint sstore around they may have examples or at least be able to run ya in the right direction to find some. It goes on just like car wax n is very durable. Might be something to think about other then stain. just some thoughts YMHS Birdman

 

[BrownBear]

Have a look at this chart. If you have scrap lumber around and a drill, you're golden.

I've used everything from pine to maple, stained to unstained, finished to unfishished, and 2- 3- 4- and 6-hole depending on caliber. When I'm collecting gear for a hunt I'm more likely to grab a scrap of wood and whip out a new one than to spend any time searching drawers for one from last year.

Of course, in the slow season I turn out some real fancy ones, too! :wink:

 

[LRB]

The Fiebings leather stain will do well on maple. The spirits type. Not the oil type. I would suggest medium brown which gives a rich reddish brown on maple. I like the Permalyn Sealer myself, and it can also be used as the final finish. It is thin and penetrates very well. It is also very tough and durable as a finish and sealer. If my memory serves me, John Bivins used it on his fine guns.

 

[LaBonte]

The Fiebings leather stain will do well on maple. The spirits type. Not the oil type.

FYI - Fiebings Oil Dye is a spirit based dye - it's actually just an improved version of their regular line of spirit dyes - in fact their oil dye has NO oil in it at all per their MSDS.
Why they ever called it oil dye I haven't a clue especially since it causes a bunch of confusion those who are just beginning in the craft.
Back in the good old days many of us leather crafters (and some still do) did add oil to the spirit dyes to improve penetration and to keep the leather from over drying, thus making it a true oil leather dye.......

 

[Leatherbark]

Every one I have bought from Track are in the white. Sanded and ready to be finished/stained.

Bob

 

[roundball]

Every one I have bought from Track are in the white. Sanded and ready to be finished/stained.

Interesting...that was the context I assumed their description was about...also figuring they'd know different folks might like to have them stained/finished different ways, etc.
But then seeing BrownBears comment I realized I had no way of knowing for sure so I emailed them to shut off the order until further notice.

 

[roundball]

Well...I'm an idiot.

I was just sending TOW's loading block link to someone as an example of the shape I was interested in and noticed that the text clearly lists them as 'unfinished'...not finished.
:shake:
Sorry about that but thanks for the replies anyway...learned some things along the way

 

[fatboy]

If you already have Tru oil gunstock finish on hand just 50/50 minspirits and truoil for a sealer then top coat with Truoil. BLO wont do real good as a moisture barrier if thats what your after. Bees wax blo and turpintine mix makes a nice finish warm your stock or other wood project and rub it in and apply a coat every day for 3 days and it looks great on wood and adds a little better moisture barrier IMO and can be touched up as needed.

 

[rawhide]

maple will take stains just as well if not better then wallnut. I love working with maple! because it is a light colored wood you can all most make it any color you want.

 

[Rifleman1776]

1776
I discovered that 'Vinegaroon' does a pretty nice job on Maple as well. :thumbsup:
Macon

I don't know wat that is. Is it a self mixed concoction or a brand name?

 

[Macon Due]

Sir
A quart of white vinegar with a pad of 'de-oiled' [washed in actetone] 4 ought steel wool torn into pieces and dropped in it.Let it set for a week or so and pour the vinegar off into a clean jar. just paint it on and let it dry then oil it. Do NOT use it on Oak! [unless you like Jet black]
Macon

 

[shortbow]

I must concur with the advice on Fiebings. I too started with it on leather and then found it is great on wood. Easy to use as well.