Swabbing Barrel Between Shots

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I have a well used rifle that is a couple of years older than yours. It has always done well when the barrel is unfired after cleaning with a .490 ball with mattress ticking patch, and way back when with Crisco (although now I use Hoppes BP lube), 80 grains ffg Goex for deer hunting.

For targets at 50 yards or less I reduce the charge to 50 grains and use a spit patch. TCs like a tight patch.
 
Dutch's system produces good results too.

This is my 100 yard group off a bench. The higher one hole is my 1st shot. The tip of my front blade sight is just touching the purple bottom side.

Also, if you use some sort of wet patch when hunting. You got 2 issues. 1.) the patch will dry up. 2.) when the patch dries up it'll likely wet some of the powder. It may not cause a failure to fire, but some of that powder will not burn completely, or too late. Wet can mean water or oil based material getting out of your patch and absorbing into the powder. IF you use those wet methods when hunting, it's a good idea to use some wasps nest. Some folks have used a small bit of corn starch between the powder and patched ball too. As for myself, I use dry lube patches. So, I do not use wasp nest anymore for a hunting load procedure.

This below is a dry patch, a weight verified ball, and a once down and out wipe with a patch with a few drops of moose milk on it.

Most guns should make this. My gun is a bit easier to shoot well because of a peep sight on it. Could fill up that 2.5" square hole at 100 yards using the same method with a custom built .45 cal percussion rifle. The peep just reduces some human error.

lyman_group.jpg
 
It used to be necessary to swab my barrels after every 5-6 rounds fired. Now that I'm using a dry castor oil patch (adaptation of Dutch's dry patch), I can go over a dozen rounds fired before even considering swabbing.

My bore swab mix is equal parts GoJo Hand Cleaner and water + 2 drops of dish soap. I have a little 4 oz squeeze bottle of the stuff & it lasts a long time.
 
You are very specific about the two drops of dish cleaner but we don't know the size of the two equal parts of water and "Colo Hand Cleaner:. Cups. Pints Gallons ? EWhat

I am interested in your adaptation on my Dry Patch Formula using Castor oil instead of Ballistol.

What kind of groups are you getting. Normally there is a build up of reside that you seem to have minimized.

That would be a major breakthrough. Is there a pariular brand of Castor Oil. ( Is the viscidity of all castor oil the same?)

I went from water soluble oil to Napa Cutting and Grinding oil til that changed and ended up with Ballistol.


I am not a pusher of Ballistol if you have found something cheaper and more easily secured ,but we need your specific
measurements ofeach ingredient and drying method.

It's fussing about like this that keeps moving us foreword,

Dutch
 
Fools Sulphur,
A good post and I would like to emphasize the need to avoid anything in the barrel that will allow ANY excess liquid, water, oil or Moose Milk to be allowed to seep into the breech, Just damp enough to wipeout the residue of any preceding shot.
This is particularly important if you rifle has a Patent Breech as pictured on page 73 of the book.
If a liquid get's in there, no following dry patches will be able to get it out

.


I believe all or most of the Hawken style rifles have the patent breech

I developed the Dry Patch System to make certain that every shooting patch was equally lubricated to prevent vertical strings of hits. I did not occur to me how it would also be extra handy in a hunting situation./

Dutch Schoultz
 
Dutch Schoultz said:
I believe all or most of the Hawken style rifles have the patent breech.
Not all ... maybe most Italian or Spanish made import hooked breech arms do.

I have a US made Austin-Halleck mountain rifle, of hooked breech, that has a full caliber bore. And all custom half-stocks I’ve handled also had the full caliber bore, no patent breech. But if an English-made original, then its likely to have a Nock chamber.
 
Dutch Schoultz said:
Fools Sulphur,
A good post and I would like to emphasize the need to avoid anything in the barrel that will allow ANY excess liquid, water, oil or Moose Milk to be allowed to seep into the breech, Just damp enough to wipeout the residue of any preceding shot.
This is particularly important if you rifle has a Patent Breech as pictured on page 73 of the book.
If a liquid get's in there, no following dry patches will be able to get it out



Dutch Schoultz


It's not an issue when using M.A.P. if you use 100% denatured ethanol. in the mix.
I've never had a problem with it. In fact I will even squirt map down the bore to clean out the patent breech.
The ethanol in combination with rapidly running a patch up and down quickly evaporates the map and any water with it..

ALSO!.....Remember how liquor use to be "proofed" 100% ethanol diluted 50/50 with water is 100 Proof alcohol. The lowest proof that black powder will ignite in.

Guys that use isopropyl alcohol that is already diluted in their M.A.P. can encounter problems.

It's all about the proper ratios.
Guys that don't use any alcohol will definitely have a problem.
 
Guys that don't use any alcohol will definitely have a problem.

I agree. But I only use mine in a glass after the shooting is over. :rotf:
Actually, I have never used alcohol for any gun cleaning. The stuff evaporates so fast I wonder if any is still present when the concoctions made with it still have any alcohol present. Dunno :idunno: jes wonnering.
 
I also never used alcohol in any of my cleaning efforts. That doesn't mean it's wrong to use it. I just never went that way. It's true that it is a Fast Evaporator, particularly in a hot barrel.

My Moosee milk recipe includes 35 Hydroperoxide as a wetting agent to make the DAMPEN wiping patch would penetrate the residue more quickly but calm thought has brought me to the conclusion that the effect of the H2) was probably expended five minutes after the mix was made and might just as well be left out.. I think made half a gallon of my Moose Milk and never ran out as long as I continued at the range. You use it very sparingly.

Dutch
 
Because the water and alcohol are mixed in equal proportions the result is 100 proof alcohol.
Gunpowder will (supposedly )ignite in 100 proof alcohol.

It works for me very well.
 
Colorado Clyde said:
Because the water and alcohol are mixed in equal proportions the result is 100 proof alcohol.
Gunpowder will (supposedly )ignite in 100 proof alcohol.

It works for me very well.

So why not use 2 parts 50% alcohol, I get it for less than a buck a bottle and I don't have to add any water. (I don't use peroxide or Murphy's. I've considered trying Murphy's but I just add a few drops of dish soap right now)
 
Try it...I can get 100% for about $1.25 a bottle sometimes far less...water is free :grin:

A bottle will last me all season/year. I'm cleaning my gun with it ...not drinking it. :haha:
 
Zonie, load the fresh charge then brush down the fouling then seat the new ball.
This method keeps the vent clear of barrel fouling.
The brush down fouling creates a barrier between the fresh charge and new patched ball.
I have wondered about hot ember problems from charging without swabbing but have not had any issues to date with this method.
Also, many folks recharge without swabbing when loading conventionally, without issue.
Something to consider at any rate though.
 
A while back I got the idea which I'm sure is not original with me, to ream the lands out of the barrel at the bottom when fitting a new breech plug.
Only ream the length of the normal charge used.
This would leave the bore smooth at the bottom to facilitate either patch or brush cleaning.
 
Clyde,
Where can I find 100% alcohol? all I can find is
70% and 50%, 90% on Amazon. Thanks.
 
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