Swabbing Barrel Between Shots

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Probably Black MZ..... :haha:

To clarify my earlier post, I "swab" when target shooting, When hunting I "clean" after each shot unless the circumstances dictate a quick follow-up. When I reload a clean barrel I can shoot it or leave it loaded indefinitely.

Reloading a dirty barrel means you have to shoot it by the end of the day and clean it.....Or you're going to have problems.
 
The brush method is not mine,,, yet. I believe if you find a post by Flehto, currently has one in the gun building section, and go to his profile, you can look up all his posts, or private message him about it.
Do be sure to use an appropriate size brush, on the loose side, and spin it clockwise if it seems to be sticking.

When doing shot load development it is just straight up rubbing alcohol. I've only fired one shot, and the 3f powder I use seems to burn pretty clean, so it's just to return as close as possible, without a full cleaning, to 1st shot conditions. Shot patterning is part half baked science and 75% voodoo. I don't need to add bore fouling to change pattern density, each pattern shot with the same load is different enough already. Straight alcohol cuts crud and grease/oil and then evaporates quickly. I really don't want to introduce water/solvents to the bore when I want to keep shooting.
 
Colorado Clyde said:
DarrinG said:
Brokennock said:
I don't. Haven't needed to. Not while shooting round ball while at the range.

That said. If I did need to, at the range, I'd experiment with a method posted here in the past, but Flehto I believe, of brushing and inverting the gun so dry crud falls out, and no moisture is introduced to the equation.

I will swab when working on shot load development at the patterning board. I swab with rubbing alcohol, strongest solution I can find. Evaporates by the time I walk back from changing paper at the board.

Interesting. Just a bore brush? And/or simply rubbing alcohol?
And so the journey of how to remove a stuck brush begins.... :haha:

I knew that was coming as soon as I posted it.
 
I swab between shots.

The jag size and shape plus the compressed thickness of the patch dictates how big it actually is.

When shooting, you want to shoot the same barrel condition each time.

A patch and jag really cleans when pulling it out. When you pull it in, you do clean some. But, pulling it out bunches up the jag a bit for a tighter fit. A tight fitting cleaning patch will push the fouling down the bore more than catching it and removing it.

The same bore condition each time means using the same cleaning patch material, the same jag, and the same amount and compound of cleaning fluid.

I use water with a bit of ballistol and a bit of pinesol.

Two other things to keep in mind.

You live in NC. High humidity, you may want a cleaning solution with some alcohol in it to keep the residual bore fouling dry in there. Some folks like this in high humidity areas. Sometime on hot n humid days, you almost make black mud in there. A NC shooter will be using less fluid than someone where its cold and/or drier.

Get some sort of bottle that meter a controlled amount of fluid. Lots of answers to what to use. Automotive Washer fluid, Water, rubbing alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, cleaning solutions like hoppe's #9. Most commercial solutions are water and soap. Many of those soapy water solutions add some water soluble oil to it too. Ballistol and murphys oil soap are water soluble oils. There are many more.

Also, what kind of patch lubricant you use will tend to dictate what you use. Residual patch lubricant can be as much or more of a problem than powder fouling. Generally, as a person gets more knowledgable in using blackpowder, the less lubricant they use in the bore.

MAny modern blackpowder gun replicas have a patent breech. In a lyman or Thompson center, they have a .36" or so size bore for the last inch or so. The smaller bore is meant to develop more pressure and heat initially. Two down sides to this design... your typical cleaning patch and jag won't get in there. And, your ignition channel for a flintlock is longer.

After about a dozen shots or so, I have to clean my patent breech area, or I get reliability problems. The less lube I use, the more reliable the gun has been over the years. I use a patch over a 36 cal brush in my gun to clean the chamber. I do this every 10 shots or so in the summer. My gun is alot better with less lube and when I drilled open my flah hole to 1/16th of an inch. A well fitting vent hole pick helps too.

Folks who do not have failure to fire problems often do a few things. Some fill the gun each time with a vent pick in the flash hole. Most, if not all of them are cleaning between shots. The ones who do not clean between shots typically are using patch lubricant that has cleaning properties.

I had horrible reliability problems when I use those goopy yellow pre-lubed patches. They just left tons of junk in the bore.

I use dutch shoultz method......
http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/

IF you hunt, get the gun well setup. Then, learn your first shot well. Mine is 2" higher at 100 yards. Which 70 yards or less, means little...... Also, cleaning is very important for the important first shot. Any residual oils many cause ignition problems. I use alcohol patches lightly moistened to remove oil from the bore, then do the same thing with the patent breech too. I also remove the flash hole clean that with alcohol too. I use the CVA thread lubricant that looks like it's in a lipstick container. A very little bit.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1002223865/cva-breech-plus-anti-seize-grease-stick
 
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It really puzzles me that shooters can't figure out how to properly use a wire brush as the only tool for removing fouling when hunting or on the range. It's amazingly simple. When just starting to w/draw the wire brush, rotate the RR clockwise and out it comes.

A lot of the trouble shooters have w/ "stuck wire brushes" is that the RR fittings aren't pinned....only glued on. Another cause of stuck brushes is using an oversize wire brush.....I buy wire brushes that have the caliber of my rifle printed on the pkg. Have bought many wire brushes since starting in 1976 and haven't had any pull apart and I don't buy a particular brand.

My son also uses wire brushes and hasn't stuck one yet.

Have shot 100s of squirrels and 99% were head hits....it's either a dead squirrel or a miss when aiming for the head. So the accuracy is excellent using a wire brush. I do carry cleaning patches but they're only used in very humid or rainy weather to wipe the pan or frizzen.......Fred
 
nhmoose said:
Colorado Clyde said:
A patch with M.A.P. soulution followed by two dry patches. Using real BP of course...

I also use spit sometimes....
Or one dry patch depending on temperature and atmospheric conditions, or actual feel of the first by experience. :thumbsup:
Absolutely... :thumbsup:
 
flehto said:
It really puzzles me that shooters can't figure out how to properly use a wire brush as the only tool for removing fouling when hunting or on the range. It's amazingly simple.
Fred
They do!...Some just learn the hard way. There are many different brushes out there and different barrels.
Not everyone has your decades of experience to draw upon....
I tried it for awhile back in the 80's....I like the wet method better....(personal preference)
I've revisited it on and off over the years....and I stuck a brush in the 2000's...You only have to stick a brush once to ask yourself "why am I using a brush".... :v
 
My biggest objection to using a brush to clear the fouling is, all of the loose fouling knocked off of the barrel wall will fall into the breech where it can easily block the flame channel or vent hole.

The only way to prevent this if a brush is being used is to hold the breech higher than the muzzle while ramming and withdrawing the brush.

That's not easy to do with a gun with a 42" barrel. :hmm:
 
Zonie said:
The only way to prevent this if a brush is being used is to hold the breech higher than the muzzle while ramming and withdrawing the brush.

That's not easy to do with a gun with a 42" barrel. :hmm:

That's my biggest objection...I'm not a circus performer and I can't juggle either... :haha:
 
Thanks to everyone for the thought-provoking, well said replies.

I have a "new to me" 1977 year production T/C Hawken 50cal percussion that is in pristine condition. It will be my whitetail hunting rifle. I am soon going to start working on loads for it, hoping I can get decent accuracy with a PRB .490 and experiment with different patch sizes and powder loads. Going to shoot Goex FFg. Reason I am asking about swabbing is I want the gun to be dialed in on the money with a clean barrel as if my first shot is at a deer. Hence I feel it would be beneficial to swab the barrel after each shot while determining what load combo this rifle prefers as that's how it would be fired in an actual hunting situation.

Thanks again for the great advice!
 
Zombie,
I use Moose Milk, .005 undersized ball, and a .020 patch, real BP.
Shoot all day, easy loading.
The only time I need to run a patch, is if I have to wait 20-30 minutes between relays.
 
FOOLSulphur,

You say you are using my methods but I;m not sure.

I sort of object to the word "Swabbing".

Swabbing gives the impression of a lot of scabbing away. I prefer "Wiping" just one quick wipe with a patch DAMPENED with Moose Milk, making sure there is no excess water to run into the breech to wet the next powder charge or even cause a misfire.

Dutch
 
Dutch,

I put about 4 drops of moose milk on the patch. Roll up the patch between my finger to get the moose milk evenly on the patch.

It goes down the bore, and back up and out, only once.

On occasion, I might rub it up and down the crud ring where the ball seats. On a woodwalk run maybe once about half way through. Some days, depeding on weather I don't have much of a crud ring that I feel as I load or wipe down the bore.

The crud ring I feel is not major. Definitely nothing near like my gun would be If I didn't use a cleaning patch between shots.
 
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