T/C 12g New Englander max safe loads

[lonedave]

1- musket caps are the only ones available now.2- I can handle musket caps without dropping them, unlike number 10 or 11 caps!

I almost never pick up single caps. I always use a capper.

 

[dynabase]

@MountainSmoke nailed it!

Thanks to all who replied. After an exhaustive search online I found a manual I can download and print off. Not sure of the date of the manual but it does specifically reference the New Englander with both the fixed cylinder choke and the screw in choke tube model. All loads I will list are lead only (steel loads are listed separately in the manual). T/C lists the all loads as powder + wad + shot + wad. The wads are either fiber wads of T/C Natural Wads.

70grs plus 1oz by volume shot
80grs plus 1 1/8oz by volume shot
90grs plus 1 1/4oz by volume shot
Max load is 100grs plus 1 3/8oz by volume shot

When I get it printed off I will post pics of the pages wit lead AND steel shot. Hopefully this will be helpful to all.

Could you post a link to the manual? I've been looking for one myself with no success.

 

[dynabase]

@MountainSmoke nailed it!

Thanks to all who replied. After an exhaustive search online I found a manual I can download and print off. Not sure of the date of the manual but it does specifically reference the New Englander with both the fixed cylinder choke and the screw in choke tube model. All loads I will list are lead only (steel loads are listed separately in the manual). T/C lists the all loads as powder + wad + shot + wad. The wads are either fiber wads of T/C Natural Wads.

70grs plus 1oz by volume shot
80grs plus 1 1/8oz by volume shot
90grs plus 1 1/4oz by volume shot
Max load is 100grs plus 1 3/8oz by volume shot

When I get it printed off I will post pics of the pages wit lead AND steel shot. Hopefully this will be helpful to all.

I just bought a 12 gauge New Englander and I'm also looking for manuals. Any chance you can post the link where you found yours?

 

[Elgatodeacero]

If you email Smith and Wesson they will send you a pdf version or a link for the Thompson Center New Englander factory manual with load data.

 

[TFoley]

From what I've seen over the years, most MODERN-manufacture m/l shotguns are proofed at 700 Kg per sq.cm or 10,000 psi.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

From what I've seen over the years, most MODERN-manufacture m/l shotguns are proofed at 700 Kg per sq.cm or 10,000 psi.

Actually there is NO real standard.
The proofing houses around the world simply set an in-house standard, and upon passing of that proofing test, the house bestows its black powder proofing mark. I know the Italians have a very different standard than the UK or Germany.
It's not standardized as with modern powder cartridges.

LD

 

[3Setters]

Wow am I a wussy. My loads dont come close to approaching what some here are putting in their shotguns. I'm using 63 grains of FFg under 7/8 ounces of shot and that breaks clays easily out to 25 yards. Come hunting season I'll be going up to 68 grains under 1 oz of shot, only because I'll be dropping down to #7 shot and want to keep my patterns dense enough. Now my gun is only 5.5 pounds which will make a difference in felt recoil.

 

[Britsmoothy]

Wow am I a wussy. My loads dont come close to approaching what some here are putting in their shotguns. I'm using 63 grains of FFg under 7/8 ounces of shot and that breaks clays easily out to 25 yards. Come hunting season I'll be going up to 68 grains under 1 oz of shot, only because I'll be dropping down to #7 shot and want to keep my patterns dense enough. Now my gun is only 5.5 pounds which will make a difference in felt recoil.

Nothing wrong with that, I was using 10z loads in my 10g the other week. Worked fine.

 

[megasupermagnum]

Wow am I a wussy. My loads dont come close to approaching what some here are putting in their shotguns. I'm using 63 grains of FFg under 7/8 ounces of shot and that breaks clays easily out to 25 yards. Come hunting season I'll be going up to 68 grains under 1 oz of shot, only because I'll be dropping down to #7 shot and want to keep my patterns dense enough. Now my gun is only 5.5 pounds which will make a difference in felt recoil.

Ok, I have to know. What compels you to load 63 and 68 grains? Why would you not load 60 and 65 grains?

 

[Historian]

To each there own is what I say. Whatever works for you is your business. I will say this though, Britsmoothy is the main reason I switched to using 3Fg in my 20 gauges. I was very impressed with the patterns and the increased velocity which is an added plus for waterfowling

 

[3Setters]

Ok, I have to know. What compels you to load 63 and 68 grains? Why would you not load 60 and 65 grains?

Simple, the little measuring device I have has different stops. That is what the powder weighed at each of those stops. Using the same stops to measure shot so I have square loads.

 

[Britsmoothy]

To each there own is what I say. Whatever works for you is your business. I will say this though, Britsmoothy is the main reason I switched to using 3Fg in my 20 gauges. I was very impressed with the patterns and the increased velocity which is an added plus for waterfowling

Yes, powder grain size has nothing to do with pattern. Wad choice does though with black powder.
Powder grain choice does indeed effect velocity and lethality in my experience.
Building a load around a particular wad column limits the developer more than they may realise, reducing most to use what they perceived is the less fierce powder choices.
Finally they see an improvement in their patterns and wrongly deduce finer grades are inheritly bad for shotguns.
All my shotguns use nothing associated with the loading of a modern cartridge except a roll crimp over shot card.

 

[Stumpkiller]

It's my understanding there are 2 variations of the New Englander. 1 has the tang secured with 2 wood screws. The newer version has 1 wood screw and 1 bolt that secures the tang to the trigger guard. My kit is the one that had 2 wood screws. It's also my understanding that this version is susceptible to cracking the stock under recoil. If this true, is it of value to bed the tang with epoxy to try to prevent stock cracking? I know this is not 'traditional' but neither is the New Englander. Any insight to this?

I was not aware there was a mid-run change on the breech. It certainly wouldn't hurt to epoxy bed the tang/breech socket. In fact, when I added the rifle barrel to mine (early kit version) I had to "adjust" the breech and I ended up waxing the hooked breech/barrel and tang and bedding them in epoxy. As you say - there is little period authentic about the New Englander lock mechanism and architecture. Done properly it won't show when assembled.

They're fun little hunting guns. Do what adds to your enjoyment. I added tacks to mine (especially along the fore-end) so when hunting with wool mittens or half-mittens it's easier to grip