T/C Cherokee disappointment ...

[cynthialee]

It is your thread to wander in...

I suspect that your home-made snap cap idea is a good one. If it isn't you just get a new nipple, they don't cost much.
Never fear stepping out of the box and trying things out. If it is a good idea it will reveal itself as such and if it is a bad idea you move on from there.

 

[mooman76]

Doesn't heart to ask. Some things may seem fine to an inexperienced or new person and some people lack common since. This is not directed at you, just saying. Like I said should work fine. I was raised and taught not to dry fire and it just kind of stuck with me. I do, do it occasionally but I cringe every time.

 

[OBX-TXN]

There are certainly some guns that are a very bad idea to dry fire .. like just about any rimfire. It will certainly damage the firing pin on those.

OTOH I have dry fired my 1911s thousands of times working on my grip, sight alignment, trigger "feel" and follow through. I competed a bit in the Army and it was suggested we practice by dry firing.

Although I have hunted with muzzleloaders since 1990 I just don't know a lot about them but it would seem a good idea to 'soften' the impact of steel on steel ... and .22 brass and spent musket caps are free ...

 

[mooman76]

Often when people p/u a used ML they have trouble with the gun not firing on the first pull of the trigger but goes off on the second. Quite often it was someone was dry firing and mushroomed the nipple enough that the cap doesn't go on all the way. Fortunately it is a quick and easy fix. You can turn the nipple down a little with use of a drill and Emory cloth or just buy a new nipple. Since you are protecting the nipple, you should be fine.

 

[OBX-TXN]

Well .. I have now function tested the lock a coupla hundred times (and beat a coupla .22 brass to smithereens) and the gun has performed as it's supposed to so I guess it's a "keeper" and the next step is the range. Planning on keeping the charges at least 10 gr under "book" to protect the surprisingly slender wrist of the stock. In .45, at least according to what I've read, 1/48 ought to be pretty good for prb ...

I'd like to thank all of you for your help ... it is much appreciated.

 

[Eddie Southgate]

Well .. I have now function tested the lock a coupla hundred times (and beat a coupla .22 brass to smithereens) and the gun has performed as it's supposed to so I guess it's a "keeper" and the next step is the range. Planning on keeping the charges at least 10 gr under "book" to protect the surprisingly slender wrist of the stock. In .45, at least according to what I've read, 1/48 ought to be pretty good for prb ...

I'd like to thank all of you for your help ... it is much appreciated.

Just for Yuks check #'s 50 in the diagram above ,the screws that hold the plate that helps keep all the moving parts in alignment . They can loosen even by a turn or so and the lock will not function correctly . My sons Cougar had them loose by a full turn on one and one and a half on the other and while it would cock and hold the triggers would not always trip the sear . Also this can cause the hammer to stop on half cock or just short of hitting the nipple . It took me a while to figure that one out as they looked to be completely seated. Make sure they are all the way in and just barely snug them .

Eddie

 

[OBX-TXN]

I'll do that, thanks ...

 

[don hepler]

I use rubber sink washers over the nipple, when dry firing. Works for me.

 

[410-er]

I have 2 TC Senecas in 45 cal.One I have set up to shoot RB's and the other Maxi's.Both only get 50grs of FFFg because of the small thin stocks but both kill deer with no problem to 50yds.
I have centered the sights but here is groups at 50yds.
DSCF1897 by t410er, on Flickr

 

[nit wit]

:thumbsup:
Nit Wit