Taking a sledge to the wedge

[broknprism]

Like a lot of people it seems, I'm having trouble getting the wedge out of my Colt. I tried rapping with heavy plastic screwdriver handles, but all I accomplish is shaving off pieces of handle. On close inspection, I see what looks like a kind of spring - a center piece of metal with cuts on eitehr side - and I wonder if there's more to it than a straight on rap. Does it need to be pinched? Is that even possible? Should I oil it up and let it work through before trying again? Thanks!

It's a never been fired 2nd gen, so that wedge may have been in there for 20 years.

 

[Texas77]

I would suggest taking it to a decent gunsmith. The wedge should not be that difficult to remove and I'd hate to see you damage your revolver.

 

[bdhutier]

I had to use a hammer and small punch the first time I took mine out. It was in there something good. It was in there so tight, the brass rod I was first using mushroomed and flaked everywhere. Now, a few light raps on a new brass rod and she slides right over.

I was nervous at first, but then figured if a .44 couldn't take a few decent hits from a punch, then it wasn't much good to begin with!

 

[broknprism]

Thanks guys. I just got my 2nd gen 2nd Dragoon today, and it has the same issue. I'm curious about the little lip in the center spring 'finger' that protrudes above the slot on the right side. It would seem that rapping the wedge will just pound the spring lip into the barrel metal. It looks like the spring has to be pushed down to clear the slot before the wedge can be driven out, but how do you do that in the field? I know the screw on the left side is there to keep the wedge from falling out, but would backing that out a scoche make the wedge easier to move? Is it a tension adjustment screw, or just a wedge-capturing device?

 

[JayDee Flohr]

The spring just holds it in agaist the head of the screw. No need to hold it down or loosen screw. Simply put, get after it and knock it loose.

 

[torn moc]

the spring " thingy" has to be held down on the side opposie the wedge screw as you knock the wedge out. Its easy if you have a wooden dowel. You simply place the end of the dowel again s the spring thingy at a 45 degree angle....the tap the other end of the dowel....this will hold the spring thingy down and at the same time knock the wedge out....

 

[Zonie]

Usually the little end of the spring doesn't have enough of a corner to really catch on the side of the barrel so it doesn't really retain the wedge with much force.
As was said, the "hook" on the end of the spring is really made to catch on the screw on the left side of the barrel when the wedge is slid out to that side.

Your wedge was pounded into the gun far too far by someone who didn't understand how these guns should be assembled.

This wedge, unlike many barrel retaining wedges on many rifles actually is a true wedge. The further it is driven in, the tighter it drives the barrel back towards the receiver (or frame).

I suggest that you spray the wedge and slot as well as you can with a good penetrating oil and give it some time to work.
Then, using something soft to protect the muzzle, tap the barrel fairly hard, back towards the receiver a few times.
Then, using a brass rod as a punch try again to drive the wedge out of the slot from the right side.

When you replace the wedge, drive it in gently until just the nose of it protrudes out the right side. Check to see if the barrel is tight against the frame at the bottom. If it is, then your almost done. If it is not, tap it in a bit further until the barrel and frame are making contact at the bottom.

When this is done, unscrew the little screw on the left side of the frame until it hits the wedge. Now, your done.

The next time you remove the wedge and replace it, the little screw will stop the wedge in the right place. :thumbsup:

 

[broknprism]

"the spring " thingy" has to be held down on the side opposie the wedge screw as you knock the wedge out. Its easy if you have a wooden dowel. You simply place the end of the dowel again s the spring thingy at a 45 degree angle....the tap the other end of the dowel....this will hold the spring thingy down and at the same time knock the wedge out"

Yes! That's what I was lookign for. The spring lip does protrude up above the slot, and this is the optimum solution, no offense meant to anyone else who was kind enough to post. On both Colts, the wedge sticks just slightly out the right side, so they weren't in too far - they've just been in there for 30 some years. The screw adjustment to mark the optimum wedge penetration is also an excellent point. Thanks to all.

Can you post photos here...?

 

[Mulebrain]

I have tackled this more than once! Each time it was the same thing!

The keeper spring on the wedge, kept catching the upper lip of the barrel wedge opening. That spring, is supposed to keep the wedge from walking out, buy in many cases, that end nub that sticks up is like a 90 degree angle.

Using a punch, push down on the top of the spring where it catches the upper lip, and whack out the wedge.

Sometimes they work well, and others!! Well you know!

I have seen so many revolvers damage by knowing and unknowing people getting them apart.

 

[broknprism]

The wooden dowel worked like a charm. Actually, it was a short wooden coat rod. Once the wedges popped into the barrel, I could pull them clear of the arbor with finger pressure.

I cleaned and oiled the Army and the Dragoon. Put some Birchwood casey choke tube lube on the nipple threads. Cleaning and regreasing the Army's arbor actually improved the cycling of the cylinder. The Dragoon was slick out of the box.

As much as I like the model of 1873 -- and I like it a lot -- I have to say these BP Colts are awesome.