TC Renegade - 2 hammer strikes needed

[dg98adams]

Took my TC Renegade .50 to the range last week.

Seems it was taking two strikes of the Hammer for the cap to go off. Every powder charge of Goex fired on the 2nd shot.

I changed out the nipple for a new one, and had the same thing happen.

One fellow shooter suggested burnishing the nipple, so the cap would sit better. I think I did that over the summer at Scout camp (no extra nipples) and it was very reliable for ~200 shots.

Another shooter said with the age of the gun (25 years plus) it did not look like the hammer was snapping forward as well as it should.

So, I took it home and lightly burnished the new nipple. I also found new coil springs for the lock, which I ordered and now have but not installed.

I have not tried to shoot some caps to see if the burnishing took care of it.....

How many strikes should a stainless nipple last?

Should I buy hardened nipple or stick with the TC Hot Shots?

Do you polish new nipples to seat better? :bow:

 

[necchi]

This is a very typical issue with the TC locks.

It acts like the hammer is working properly and it sounds like it,,
But in all actuality the hammer is stopping just a hairs distance from striking the nipple..

Don't worry it's an easy fix. It's the fly in the lock,,

Pull the lock from the stock and spray the internals with an oil solvent (I use Brake Cleaner) clean and re-oil all the parts in there.
The fly is a small pointed little thing at the bottom of the tumbler and under that plate, with the plate on all you can see is the pointed end of it.

Now, if those screws that hold that plate on are the tinyest bit loose, or the fly is gummed up or dry,, the fly will "tip" in it's socket and stop the hammer fall right quick.
Get Those Screws Tight! and get some freash oil on the lock internals.

90% of the time it's those screws comming loose that'll cause the very problem you have.

Here's the fly in a Lyman lock, they have the same trouble as TC just not as frequent.

And Yes, they will come loose again, this is a good place to use some blue loctite,,
(or nail polish)

 

[Captjoel]

I have had a lot of the same problems with percussion locks from T\C Hawken rifles. I took your advice Necchi and tightened the two screws on what I would call the bridle of the lock. This really bound things up and the hammer strike did not fall all the way to the nipple. I cleaned everything up and greased all the moving parts including the fly. With the two screws tightened all the way in.....still binding. I had to relieve them a quarter turn to get the lock to work. Still problematic fireing caps on the first cycle, they go off on the second cycle.

 

[ebiggs1]

You need to clean the lock thoroughly. Really get it clean. Lightly oil it with a good gun oil.
You don't need a new coil spring.
Make sure the hammer is striking the nipple in the center.
Do not over tighten those screws. Snug is the key word.
The TC nipples last a very long time.

 

[Billnpatti]

If you find that your bridle screws need to be a little bit loose in order for the lock to work properly, the solution is a simple one. Just get some brass shim stock or you can use the aluminum from a soda pop can and make some small washers for each of the bridle screws. They do't have to be perfect, just servicable. Remove the bridle and put one shim washer on each screw behind the bridle. This will keep the bridle from binding when you tighten the screws.

If you find that the internals of the lock are dirty, clean them with automobile spray brake cleaner and lightly re-oil all the moving parts. You should clean your lock every time you clean your gun. Spray brake cleaner makes the job fast and simple. After you thoroughly spray it, blow it out with compressed air if you have it. If not, just sling out the excess cleaner and let the lock sit and dry. Then lightly re-oil it and it is good to go. Not cleaning your lock every time is what causes most lock malfunctions.

 

[necchi]

Bill's right, the lock and the triggers need to be cleaned and oiled.

I don't do it every time I shoot, but I do at least look,, and check the lock action for proper lube and function.

My idea is the shooter needs to be aware of lock and trigger condition, do at least periodic maintainance to both before trouble occurs.

Sadley for some reason many do nothing with the locks and triggers and focus only on barrel cleaning, :idunno:

Captjoel;
I've never seen one where those screws get over tightend and bind the lock, I guess I don't have that heavy a hand with the screwdriver.
But that's still good advice, I guess a little common sence is in order.

 

[Billnpatti]

One thing I failed to mention was to be sure that you are using the proper size caps. If you happen to get some #10 caps instead of #11, you will very often encounter just the problem that you described. A #10 cap is too small for the nipple and it will take the first strike to completely seat it against the top of the nipple and then the second strike will ignite it. Been there, done that.

 

[cynthialee]

One thing I failed to mention was to be sure that you are using the proper size caps. If you happen to get some #10 caps instead of #11, you will very often encounter just the problem that you described. A #10 cap is too small for the nipple and it will take the first strike to completely seat it against the top of the nipple and then the second strike will ignite it. Been there, done that.

this was my thought also

 

[don hepler]

Look up inside the hammer cavity, and check for jammed caps. They will expand and fill the cavity and you will be coushioning the fall of the hammer. Clean inside of the hammer cavity, down to bare metal.

Just another reason for misfires.

 

[George T.]

Well I have a couple of projects now that I have read these posts. I am not having a problem but why not head them off? One thing though if deburring the nipple helped for 200 shots before I would try that. My trigger group and lock thank all of those above! Geo. T.