The Eras Gone Johnston and Dow wins

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Bill,
Have you mic'ed the base diameter of both bullets? I'm betting that Kerr is a little bit smaller than the J & D. Also, were you able to recover any fired bullets to see what the rifling marks look like at the base?
 
Pete, I was unable to recover any of the fired bullets. The Johnston and Dow mikes about .434 at the heel and .462 at the widest band, whilst the Kerr mikes .432 and .458. The J&D requires noticeably more force to seat.
Hmmm, that's not much difference at the heel, but the base is the steering end of the bullet, that could possibly be the culprit. Interesting
 
When working up your loads, do you check to see if the diameter of the chambers in the cylinder match the diameter of the bore? Does it matter?
Yes, and yes, I believe it matters. Most if not all replicas have undersized and or out of round chambers. Ideally they would measure a thousandth or so over the groove diameter. If you’re handy and own a drill press and a few pin gauges you can source a chucking reamer from Amazon and do it yourself. If not, any competent gunsmith should be able to do it for a few bucks.
 
Hmmm, that's not much difference at the heel, but the base is the steering end of the bullet, that could possibly be the culprit. Interesting
Pete, I was unable to recover any of the fired bullets. The Johnston and Dow mikes about .434 at the heel and .462 at the widest band, whilst the Kerr mikes .432 and .458. The J&D requires noticeably more force to seat.

I’ve been loading the Kerr over a .463”x.030” veggie fiber wad and it’s been accurate for me. I’ve not cast them yet and bought them from two different places, one of the vendors did a very poor job of it so that’s something to look for as well.
 
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The JD I bought are .426 base and .462 at the wide part
One of the reasons I like my Accurate Mold designs is that the rebated sections are much closer to the sizes of my pistols chambers so I’m sure they’re well centered when the ram makes contact. I don’t make paper cartridges but I’m sure they are so much undersized to allow paper to take up some of the windage.
 
The rebate on the JD I have is plenty to seat correctly in the chambers of what I have. They just don't have any accuracy so not worth it (and I don't pour my own, not going to get into that arena, did it when I was younger)

I had to fix the Pietta rammer by cutting it back a bit and shaping the end to work but it also we not good with balls as it mashed both ball and the JDs.

That said when the Walker gets here I will try in that gun and if they don't show something promising I can just use ball. I am not sorry I tried them, but also ball is a lot less and works as good or better (at least in the 3 I have now)

If it works in the Walker I can get more
 
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Smokerr, I have no idea what effect the lube might have had on accuracy. What I used was White Label "Swiss" BPCR lube which I find very similar to the well-regarded SPG (developed decades ago by Steven P Garbe, national champion BPCR shooter par excellence). I simply thought it a good idea, in combination with the Triple7, to keep fouling management easy.
I will do some more exhaustive tests with the Kerr, Johnston and Dow and Speer swaged round balls here soon when the weather warms back up and I can find a capper that works on the Colt; the Tedd Cash snail capper wouldn't fit and it would have made a great "fail" Youtube watching me fumble those caps on with my fat old fingers. 😄

BillinOregon---Interested in how the 'White' Swiss BPCR lube works out. I've been looking at it since late fall thinking of giving it a try. I've used several of the makers other lubes I bought off of the NOE Bullet Mold site, used for smokeless revolver/rifle cast bullets. Worked well, no problem with them. I've used mostly SPG, PL-II, and my home brew over the years for black powder loadings but a pound of the White lube is way cheaper than the current SPG cost. Appreciate any input of your findings, pro/con. Thank you. CC
 
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