The Wedge in an 1851 Navy

[tg]

"The little screw does not hold the wedge in.
In fact, it is designed to hold the wedge out."

That is the first time I have seen anyone describe the adjustment on the Colt wedge screws on a ML forum, good information.I used to have a .36 Navy Arms revolver. I kind of wish I stil hadit at times it was a lot of fun to shoot and fit like it was part of my hand.

 

[Chilidog]

"The little screw does not hold the wedge in.
In fact, it is designed to hold the wedge out."

That's the first time I've had it explained too. Thanks Zonie. :hatsoff:

 

[Brik847]

Thanks everyone - it all works.

 

[madcratebuilder]

I disagree with the above recommended wedge fitting instructions.

First the wedge screw, it is the keep the wedge from falling out of the slot when disassembling, not for controlling wedge depth. The wedge screw should be fully screwed into the barrel lug. The retainer hook (wedge spring) is meant to catch on the inner edge of the wedge screw.

Second, the wedge it's self. The wedge spring is intended to hook the wedge screw not to necessarily hook over the barrel frame. When I re-fit an arbor I like the wedge nose to be flush with outside of the barrel lug or slightly protruding when tightly seated. In no case should the wedge fit so deep that the wedge shoulder contacts the wedge screw. You should be able to insert the wedge 75-85% of the way with just thumb pressure then a light tap with a rawhide mallet to seat it.

If you have the barrel fitted correctly to the arbor and frame, the barrel should not be able to be bound against the cylinder. If you change the barrel gap with the wedge then the arbor is not fit correct.

If the wedge seats easily with out pressure you need a wider wedge. You can replace it or weld the rear flat edge and then file to fit. The final finish should be from a fine oil stone.

I have reached these conclusion from reading what few gunsmithing books I have found on the old Colt. From talking with other gunsmiths that have open top experience, and from rebuilding several dozen replica open tops. replacing arbors, wedges and setting back barrels.

 

[OLDPUPPYMAX]

The wedge should protrude about an equal amount from both sides of the gun. The spring sticking up on the wedge (on the side opposite the screw) prevents the wedge sliding out to the screw side. The screw prevents the wedge from sliding out to the other side of the gun. Just take a small hammer, cover the wedge with a hand towel and pop it lightly until an equal bit of wedge is visible on each side of the gun. Nothing to it. And once the wedge is out, pull the barrel away from the gun. That's all there is to it.

 

[Coot]

The wedge has a shoulder that will prevent it from going in flush on the screw side. This shoulder will stop wedge movement towards the non screw side even if the screw is missing. The screw will act as a stop to catch the little upturned wedge spring when pushing the wedge out from the non screw side. By catching the spring, the screw prevents the wedge from coming completely out of the barrel - presumably so as to reduce risk loss of the wedge when changing cylinders in the field. The screw can also be used as a means of controlling the distance that the wedge will be able to go in.