Thought I was sold....

[mrfritz44]

......on a Jim Chambers oil finish on top of iron nitrite to the extent that I actually bought a bottle of Jim's finish, but the more photos I saw the more I realized how much of a red tone it brings.

If I'm going for a golden or amber tone finish on top of iron nitrite, what final oil finish do you recommend? Toughness will be a consideration since this gun will likely see wet snow and rain from time to time.

 

[Are. M.]

Following

 

[Buff1958]

I put a coat of Tannic acid along with the iron nitrate then chambers oil. If it is red I can't see it (color blind)
I have a couple I did with permalyn and they seem about the same color to me

 

[Indy Durtdigger]

If you sand it back after heating you can control how much red is left. No sanding at all and it's almost burgandy when oil coated. Both of these are the same oil finish over iron nitrate. Edit-Should have noted they are both maple.

 

[rich pierce]

I don’t find that the finish normally adds much color to the stained stock. It’s the stain that gives color. It takes special tricks to get the top coat to give much color.

 

[mrfritz44]

I don’t find that the finish normally adds much color to the stained stock. It’s the stain that gives color. It takes special tricks to get the top coat to give much color.

I heard that Chambers finish is noted for adding a red tone and the more I saw photos the more I realized that wasn't the tone I wanted.

 

[rich pierce]

I heard that Chambers finish is noted for adding a red tone and the more I saw photos the more I realized that wasn't the tone I wanted.

I’ve read that too. That’s not my experience at all. If it has any effect, it’s nothing compared to the base stain which is at least 95% of the color unless the finish is strongly tinted. If it’s strongly tinted, it looks like stain, not finish honey-colored finish.

 

[James Kibler]

Consider the finish we have just made available for sale. It certainly highlights the golden and amber tones.

 

[Flintandsteel]

Jim,
How is it applied, and what kind of sheen should we expect?

 

[mrfritz44]

Jim,
How is it applied, and what kind of sheen should we expect?

I can't see the wood finishing supplies on Jim's site like I can the metal finishing supplies. What's this new stuff called?

 

[Tumbledown]

Danish oil is slightly ambering. I use Watco's, their natural color. I believe they also make an amber tone. Danish oil is also fairly water resistant, and easy to apply.

 

[mrfritz44]

Well, I figured out I could see Jim's wood finishing supplies on my desktop but not my Android for whatever reason. Now I can see this:

https://kiblerslongrifles.com/products/kibler-gunstock-sealer-and-finish

Hoping Jim can answer if this finish is linseed oil or tung oil based?

I'm no expert, but rumor has it that linseed may be a more historically correct finish, but tung is much more durable, and durability is my goal with this gun as it'll be used to hunt.

Any thoughts Jim?

 

[Tumbledown]

Well, I figured out I could see Jim's wood finishing supplies on my desktop but not my Android for whatever reason. Now I can see this:

https://kiblerslongrifles.com/products/kibler-gunstock-sealer-and-finish

Hoping Jim can answer if this finish is linseed oil or tung oil based?

I'm no expert, but rumor has it that linseed may be a more historically correct finish, but tung is much more durable, and durability is my goal with this gun as it'll be used to hunt.

Any thoughts Jim?

Today's linseed finishes are nothing like those of old. As dave_person has described in a thread on the King's Musket, it could take days or weeks to dry and believes many guns were actually finished with a varnish. He suggests (and often uses) a wiping varnish. He uses Sutherland-Wells, but Watco Danish oil and several wipe-on polys are in the same general class.