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Throwing blocks!

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optiman

32 Cal.
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Its time again for some new throwing blocks. What wood do you find best? What thickness? I have been using poplar and some kind of pine. My block at home bit the dust in the fall and I made up a "block" using old landscaping ties that are 4"X4".

Any suggestions on throwing knife and hawks would be appreciated as well. I lost my Fort Turner knife about a month ago. Since then, I am using a few homemade knives. I want to replace the FT, but before I drop that much dough, I wanted opinions. Thanks all for any help or opinions.
 
Get yourself some willow wood. I would keep it 8" to 10" thick. We use different size blocks (diameter) - it's kind of like picking a spot, the smaller blocks play on your mind. If your picking a spot, the diameter of the block shouldn't bother you.
We keep our blocks up off the ground and cover them if left our for long periods (between events). Hope this helps :thumbsup:
 
Speaking of throwing blocks, I will be running a hawk event at our next vous and I am looking for some new "games" anyone have any favorites?
 
Good evening. I have a couple of the Fort Turner pieces. I am really pleased with the quality of his products. He ships promptley also. I have purchased four or five of his Buck tomahawks, and the same number of his throwing knives. My brother also owns a couple of the Fort Turner items, as do five of my nephews. I also have a tomahawk similar to the one Turner offers as the Iroquois. I really like the shape of the head and I find it very pleasing. That one is made by H&B I think, and sold as the either the Shawnee or Huron. Those both have the same heads, just one has brass tacks in the handle. They are made in Ohio I think... not China or India. The best deal I could find for the Shawnee hawk was through the Log cabin Shop. Fort Turner products are made in California, way, way north of Berzerkeley (U.C. Berkeley). I don't think you will be disappointed with either one you might choose. Both of the hawks styles are sticking suckers. My kids each have the knives and hawks.

As for your target stump, get your hands on a good section of pine or something like that. Our stump is twenty-four inches across the face and about maybe twelve inches or more thick. We made a tripod to hang it from. You can use those landscaping timbers. The poles for the tripod are about twevle feet long. They are through bolted about a foot to a foot and a half down from the top using a couple of pieces of long threaded rod about 3/8th dia, and then lashed at the junction with a rope. The stump is suspended by maybe inch and a half long link, galvanized chain, a few feet long and connected to eye bolts mounted inside (away from the front) of the tripod. That way you won't hit them with your hawk on a bad throw. The top of the stump has two eye bolts screwed into it at the ten and two o'clock positions roughly, maybe more toward ten-thirty and two-thirty. Those bolts are about in the middle of the thickness of the stump for balance. My brothe has three chains on his, the third one is in the rear, suspended from the rear leg of the tripod, and attached to the backside of the stump, near the bottom. That keeps the stump from swinging a lot. I have a bunch of firewood stacked behind our target for a backstop. The chain is clipped on with some caribiners/ D-rings. It makes for a quick height adjustment and a quick change out for a new stump when the time comes. The tripod also makes it easy to move if you want to change the location in your yard.
My brother and I as well as his kids and mine have thrown the knives and hawks at his target stump so much, we cut a hole right through the center of the thing. We could throw the knives and hawks through the hole. Needless to say we have had tons of fun. He has changed out the old stump and is well on the way to wearing out the new one. :hmm:
 
Good evening. I have a couple of the Fort Turner pieces. I am really pleased with the quality of his products. He ships promptley also. I have purchased four or five of his Buck tomahawks, and the same number of his throwing knives. My brother also owns a couple of the Fort Turner items, as do five of my nephews. I also have a tomahawk similar to the one Turner offers as the Iroquois. I really like the shape of the head and I find it very pleasing. That one is made by H&B I think, and sold as the either the Shawnee or Huron. Those both have the same heads, just one has brass tacks in the handle. They are made in Ohio I think... not China or India. The best deal I could find for the Shawnee hawk was through the Log cabin Shop. Fort Turner products are made in California, way, way north of Berzerkeley (U.C. Berkeley). I don't think you will be disappointed with either one you might choose. Both of the hawks styles are sticking suckers. My kids each have the knives and hawks.

As for your target stump, get your hands on a good section of pine or something like that. Our stump is twenty-four inches across the face and about maybe twelve inches or more thick. We made a tripod to hang it from. You can use those landscaping timbers. The poles for the tripod are about twevle feet long. They are through bolted about a foot to a foot and a half down from the top using a couple of pieces of long threaded rod about 3/8th dia, and then lashed at the junction with a rope. The stump is suspended by maybe inch and a half long link, galvanized chain, a few feet long and connected to eye bolts mounted inside (away from the front) of the tripod. That way you won't hit them with your hawk on a bad throw. The top of the stump has two eye bolts screwed into it at the ten and two o'clock positions roughly, maybe more toward ten-thirty and two-thirty. Those bolts are about in the middle of the thickness of the stump for balance. My brothe has three chains on his, the third one is in the rear, suspended from the rear leg of the tripod, and attached to the backside of the stump, near the bottom. That keeps the stump from swinging a lot. I have a bunch of firewood stacked behind our target for a backstop. The chain is clipped on with some caribiners/ D-rings. It makes for a quick height adjustment and a quick change out for a new stump when the time comes. The tripod also makes it easy to move if you want to change the location in your yard.
My brother and I as well as his kids and mine have thrown the knives and hawks at his target stump so much, we cut a hole right through the center of the thing. We could throw the knives and hawks through the hole. Needless to say we have had tons of fun. He has changed out the old stump and is well on the way to wearing out the new one. :hmm:
 
Willow or poplar(Cottonwood,Aspen) are good woods for backstops. Much better than the pines. The pines have too much pitch in them, and they get very brittle when they dry out. Pine's only advantage is that its much lighter to lug around than the other woods. If you are moving slabs, or the tripod, this is at least a two man job to move it to the back of a pickup truck, or take it from the truck to the tripod or stand. We build a sturdy wood shelf to support the slab, and don't use chains. If the shelf and tripod is angled properly the weight of the slab prevents it from tilting forward when you lever your axe out. You learn to push upward on the handle, and not downward to remove the axe.

I would not put screws, or u-nails, into the side of the block. We put them in the back of the slab, so that we did not ruin anyone's axe by having anything metal that could be struck by the axe if it was overthrown.

Games: The sky is limited only by your imagination. You can put a picture up of Osama, or Hillary, or Obama, or McCain, or Bush, as you wish, and throw at that. Pick a part of the image to hit to score extra points. Same thing with cards. YOu can decide that if someone hits the card and cuts a given " spot ", they get more points. ( aim small, miss small) We cut rubber bands, with 5 pts for cutting one, and ten points for cutting both. The bands are run across each other to form an "X" from 4 nails. You can use the standard bullseye, but use a die( or pair of dice) to determine if the axe is to be thrown overhand, or underhand, or side armed. That tests those skills, and gives members a chance and reason to practice them. You can do a dual tree, where members are paired off with other members. The loser of the throw goes over to the loser category. The winners then compete against each other, and the " losers " compete against each other. The winners in the loser column move over to the winner column. Only if someone loses twice are they disqualified to continue. That makes for a longer competition, but it also is COMPETITIOn on a man on man setting, rather than each man against everyone else. Then you can do the same thing with a partner's throw. How you score a partner's match makes it more interesting. If the first partner misses, but the partner hits, the two go on to the next round. In effect, a partner can save his partner and himself by picking up a target that the first man missed. ( failed to stick his axe in a scoring area). Or you can run a match like an Annie Oakley match at Trap. Each man gets to throw at a target. If he misses the next man throws. If he misses, the third man throws. If the second or third man hit, the first man gets a point against him. If the second man also misses but the third man hits, both the first and second man get points against them. 2 misses where points are awarded against you and you are out of the running.

That's enough ideas from me at this time of night.
 
grbear said:
Speaking of throwing blocks, I will be running a hawk event at our next vous and I am looking for some new "games" anyone have any favorites?
Split the card is an old favorite along with cut the string.
I saw another event the went real nice in Encampent Wyoming last summer. They had 6 hawk blocks, three mounted on the ground and three at chest level. The faces were painted and the particpants drew lots to see if they had to throw at a low target or a high target. It enabled the person running the event to plow through alot of contestants very quickly. Cash money was given to the winner.

Regards
Loyd Shindelbower
Loveland Colorado
 
My first choice would be willow - if you have a big enough tree to cut. And 8 to 10 inches thick as a Minimum. My next choice is white elm. Good tough twisty grained wood. But it gets a bit tricky cutting it at the right time. Too "green" and it will be hard to stick anything in. Too "punky" and soft spots develope very quickly.

Other woods tend to split too easily for me - especially if cut shorter than 16 inches thick.

For a little variety in competition, little changes help. As stated before, change the height of the block. It doesn't have to be much - just a full diameter of the block above or below normal height. But only change that height just before the competition. Leave it at normal height for all that practice/plinking stuff. That will mess up a lot of the "professional" competitors.

Put a specific "target" point on the block - but in areas other than the center. Most people practice with their aiming point being the center. Shifting things out half way out to the edge in any direction starts to make it very interesting. And to really shake things up, place your "target" right at the outside edge of your block! You will be amazed at how many people will not even be able to stick their hawk/knife. The illusion of the edge of the block really messes with people's minds.

Playing cards are a common target used in many places. See if you can find some of the paper poker chips to use as a target. That smaller and rounded target changes things up from the norm. If you still want to use playing cards, find a deck of round cards at a toy store. It's much harder to "cut a corner" off of a round card.

Stretch two strings across your block to form an X. Different points for cutting one or both strings. But make them cross at some point other than the center of the block.

A common game we used to play for beers was a knife/hawk combination match. You threw both your knife and your hawk, and measured the distance between where both stuck in the block. Shortest distance between the two would win. Only when both stick does it count. You then always have that "worry/danger" of sticking one, and then hitting it with your second one. I put lots of knicks in steel and handles doing this. I've also stuck my knife in my hawk handle a bunch of times! Or popped the handle off of my knife when throwing that first!

Other possibilities?

Have everybody throw the same one or two hawks or knives. (You need several that are almost identical - so you have backups in case of breaks.)

Pick a set distance that everybody has to throw from. Your foot must be on that line when you release. It shows you how well some people can adapt. And then change the distance for any run-offs.

Use a log standing upright as your target block! This really messes people up. Most throws will bounce off to the side instead of sticking.

Just some humble thoughts to share - and really shake up the competition!

Mikey - yee ol' grumpy German blacksmith out in the Hinterlands
 
I have a slice off the stump of a tree a guy was paid to remove. It is 4.5 feet across the face and it takes two good men to even turn it over. Find a tree trimmer and explain your needs to him. When he brings you a piece or calls you to come get one, tip him well enough that you will be welcome next time!
 
We have two choices around here. Cottonwood or Elm. Now I dont know about "white" elm, we call it Chinese elm, Siberian Elm, or pi$$ elm. Cut it in the winter when the sap is down if you cut it green. It has a nice tangled grain and does not split out. 18" to 2' blocks are representative of traditional "targets".

Cottonwood will dry out and cure harder than elm. Both will give you long lasting blocks if you cut them a foot thick. We drill holes in the blocks and put in 1" wooden pegs for mounting and attaching. That way, you dont knick your axe or knife if you strike them and if you cut one off you just bore it out and stick in another one. Lodgepole pine fence poles are used to make a tripod for holding the throwing block. When the games are over, it all folds up and goes in a little trailer.

Card cutting is common here. Sticking in the card is a point. Completely cutting the card into two unattached pieces is 5 or 10 points. Gettin interestin aint it? Remember there is a rule on the width of your hawk blade. You aint gonna be throwin a broad axe here. Most of the card cuts are done with the knife. Competition gets keen here, need I say more? Or you can play Handles.

In Handles, you do not retrieve your hawk. You throw, then the next guy throws until the round is complete. Those hawks left with handles in them are retrieved until there is only one hawk left with a handle that is not split out and that is the winner.

Edit:
Somebody there better be sellin hawk handles or you better take a couple extras with you if you play this game.
 
paulvallandigham said:
The bands are run across each other to form an "X" from 4 nails.
Paul:

Try replacing the 'nails' with 'toothpicks". In a well-used butt/backstop, we use the round ones and pound them in to hold targets. Much easier on the blade edge than steel :thumbsup: !
 
I made the same comment to the guys at my club that were running the hawk throws, but they looked at me like I was crazy. Thanks for the good idea. :thumbsup:
 
I have a neighbor that is a tree trimmer and he brought me a couple of sections of cottonwood as I requested. It seems to be a little better at "self healing" than other woods. My tripod has a cross piece across the front about waist height to support the block.
 
My support of my throwing bock is a version of that classic tripod. The block used to rest on two wood pegs sticking out of the two front uprights. But it still had to be tied to the tripod so that it didn't fall off. And the pegs kept getting "chipped" away. So I drilled a pair of holes through each of the two uprights. I then used heavy spikes to nail the uprights to the back side of my block. I could have used lag bolts, but I had spike on hand. I also made sure that they didn't go too far into the block. My tripod is made from home-sawn oak 3x6's. The top is loosely bolted together - so that the front uprights can be angled out and the back brace can swing back.

It's pretty easy to move. Just carefully lay it down on the block. The back leg folds right down between the front legs. Then just pick it up by the ends of the front legs. Or grab it by the top and pull it like a travois. And it's very easy to just lean it over right onto the back of a pickup truck. Just watch out for pinched fingers from that back support leg.

Mikey - yee ol' grumpy German blacksmith out in the Hinterlands


p.s. A little work with a crowbar or sledge hammer removes the block from the stand. I occasionally pull the block off, rotate it a bit, and spike it back in place. This shifts the "worn" spots around.
 
Stumpjumper, I like Hemlock for my blocks. It is soft enough that you don't have to break it in and hard enough to last a few years. Also, they are much lighter than hardwoods. If you live close to NE PA, I have a 20" tree that went down behind the house and you are welcome to a few slabs of it. Anyone else for that matter is welcome to my place and pick some up. Bring your smokepole while you are at it and we can burn some powder.
 
Mike Ameling said:
My support of my throwing bock is a version of that classic tripod. The block used to rest on two wood pegs sticking out of the two front uprights. But it still had to be tied to the tripod so that it didn't fall off. And the pegs kept getting "chipped" away. So I drilled a pair of holes through each of the two uprights...

Mine is the same design. The rear leg can be positioned anywhere, making it ideal for uneven ground. The "block" is secured to the front legs with lag bolts from the rear. It weighs quite a bit, but by raising the rear leg, you can "walk" it on the two front legs, making it easy for one person to move.

HawkTarget.jpg
 
We used to have an annual fracas at the club I belonged to. We had a pretty good crowd and good family time. Most of the members came to the club because they could not afford a lot of other activities. The club was their family and social structure. Most of these guys worked on farms or in feed yards and probably did not make over $6 or $7 an hour.

One of the prizes that was a big hit there, were the throwing blocks. The slabs could be obtained for free, and a tripod stand was either made from natural growth that didnt cost anything or from a lodgepole from farm supply for $5. Even in these days of easy money, they are still a hit for prizes as it only takes a couple hours in an evening to put one together.
 
To River Rat-
(sorry, I don't know how to use the quote feature!)

I am in SE PA and would love to take you up on the offer! Thank you for your kindness! What is life without the opportunity to meet new folks? If you are close enough, it would be well worth the trip to nab a few blocks for home and camp. I am in the Downingtown, Exton area. I assume that you are about 1 1/2 North? Thanks again all for the help. I wish more forums were as friendly and helpful!
 
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