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Tiger stripping walnut?

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:hmm: Planning on stripping the finish off of my T/C Renegade and would like to add tiger stripe lines before staining and oil finishing stock...what's the best way to add this effect? :bow:
 
Please don't take it personal,

Sell the stock and by an after market Maple with stripes already present.

I simply haven't seen fake strips that don't look like fake strips. :barf:
 
There is no possible way you will end up with a finish that would remotely resemble natural wood.
 
If you want the wood to look like natural 'curly' (striped) wood the others are right.
It is impossible to stripe the wood so it will look like the real thing.
That makes buying a piece of real 'curly' wood the only option.

Now, if you want to have a striped stock that looks like the guns that were made by Heinreich Leman (note, this is not spelled Lyman like the modern gun importing company) then you may be in luck.

Back in the 1830-1860 period, H. Leman's company produced hundreds of guns for sale both to the Indians and to sell commercially.

One of the most obvious features of his commercial guns was the stripes painted onto the wood before the final finish was applied.

Some firearm historians feel the brushes used to create these strips consisted of 7 small tufts of bristles because the spacing seems to repeat itself.

If you want to reproduce these stripes, the stripes were about 1/8"-3/16" wide. The spacing was around 1/4" to 5/16" and you can use brown leather dye purchased at a shoe repair shop.
This dye is not the typical shoe polish. It is an alcohol based dye used for staining leather.
(If you get some on your skin you'll find out how long your skin takes to wear off because that is the only way of removing it). :grin:

Like I mentioned, these will look like dark brown stripes on your walnut stock and they won't look natural but they can add interest to your gun.

Oh. Don't bother with the burning rope manure you may read about. It usually does more damage than it does good and if your interested in documented history there is no record of a gun that was striped this way.
 
well tell me is this real or fake? :v

13yph91.jpg
 
Photo's don't really work well do they.
Tell ya what, take it out in the sun with a video and roll the stock back-n-forth a bit.
 
stocks were fake striped in the past. used filing soaked in niric acid AquaFortes painted on then heated. It will look artifical but is hcpc.Remember back in the day people wanted the best and could only pay for plain jane.I seem to recall Fort Sam Walton was at the junction of the ohio rive and the Arkansas :rotf:
 
Tenngun: When I mentioned no record of rifles "striped this way" I was talking about setting a rope or string on fire.

Kodiak13: I would go with a grade #3 or 4 curly maple.

I've used a lot of Pecatonica Rivers CM and never been disappointed with either one of these grades.

Dick seems to call wood that other places rate #4 as being his #3 and his #4 is what others call their #5.
 
Kodiak13 said:
:v Thanks gentlemen, I do like the looks of the stocks from Pecatonica and will probably order one of their stocks for my Renegade...in curly maple #4 or #5 grade!

I have one in a #4 on a Renegade.. REALLY Like it. Wish I had gone #5 now. :hmm:
That is still my favorite hunter...
this is it...

20121215_155129_zpsd7df7dc1.jpg


20121215_155108_zpsafa6be68.jpg


20121205_114714-1.jpg
 
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necchi said:
Please don't take it personal,

Sell the stock and by an after market Maple with stripes already present.

I simply haven't seen fake strips that don't look like fake strips. :barf:

Partially agree. Fake stripes always look fake. But, IMHO, a factory made Renegade just isn't worth the investment into a nice (expensive) piece of striped maple and the work to rebuild the rifle. I say go fer the fake method. Nothing to be lost. Can always buy fancy wood later.
 
Rifleman1776 said:
But, IMHO, a factory made Renegade just isn't worth the investment into a nice (expensive) piece of striped maple and the work to rebuild the rifle. I say go fer the fake method. Nothing to be lost. Can always buy fancy wood later.

I am sure glad you qualified that statement with "in your opinion". What the actual value of that Renegade is, is not yours to make. It is his, C'mon on.
 
ebiggs said:
Rifleman1776 said:
But, IMHO, a factory made Renegade just isn't worth the investment into a nice (expensive) piece of striped maple and the work to rebuild the rifle. I say go fer the fake method. Nothing to be lost. Can always buy fancy wood later.

I am sure glad you qualified that statement with "in your opinion". What the actual value of that Renegade is, is not yours to make. It is his, C'mon on.

:shocked2: Seems to me that its is THE stock that makes or breaks the gun (asthetically) more so then not, I mean how often when shown a rifle do we comment in the beauty of the butplate or thimble.. Or even "Wow Fred 'Nice Lock', it really makes that stock POP!" ... :rotf: :rotf:
Yes I understand the value of a complete kit vs a production gun but still its the stock. in MY opinion.
 
Kodiak, As long as your going to buy one, Go ahead and try it! Whats the harm. People have been doing faux finishing for hundreds of years and many are quite convincing. I hear a feather works well! Have fun and experiment! it only has to look good to you. :thumbsup:
Robby
 
Or an air brush and paint / stain. A good artist can do almost anything. It all depends on you. I'm just saying it will be easier to get the finished look you want if you start out with natural materials that lessen the artistic demand.
 
For this type of gun go fully sick,you can't hurt it, but speaking as a person who has rescued nice walnut for fauxstrippers don't do this to a good gun :shake:
 
When they refer to "burning" rope they may be refering to chemical burning as mentioned above. Not actually burning rope. The old Leman I have appears to have been chemically burned. Not painted. Underneath the finish. It looks like you could soak a 3/8" hemp rope in the acid, wrap the stock completely from butt to tip, and then heat the acid soaked rope to produce the stripes. Not sure if maple reacts differently than walnut. It might. And a charred rope that was burned might impart a stain with the acid burn too!

I'm going to remove the buttplate and see if there is a pinhole where the rope may have been pinned. To start the wrap. It should line up with the first "burn". There are no lines underneath the inlays. It had to be done early in the process.

I should be able to produce some pics tomorrow.
 
Col. Batguano said
Or an air brush and paint / stain.

Johnnsf said
When they refer to "burning" rope they may be refering to chemical burning as mentioned above. Not actually burning rope. The old Leman I have appears to have been chemically burned. Not painted. Underneath the finish. It looks like you could soak a 3/8" hemp rope in the acid, wrap the stock completely from butt to tip, and then heat the acid soaked rope to produce the stripes. Not sure if maple reacts differently than walnut. It might. And a charred rope that was burned might impart a stain with the acid burn too!

With all due respect fellows.

Do you guys really want to learn period rifle building where "gadgets" are not needed and what made an artist was the skill in which he used his hands and mind ?

Are you willing to accept Granpaw's myth was just Granpaw's myth because he really had no clue?

If yes, read further, if no, might as well skip to another post.

To Kodiak 13
The late Thompson Center muzzleloaders are not and never were "cheap guns".
Each year the value will increase on a well cared for example as the well runs dry. You already see this with the Seneca and Cherokee. Before too long the Renagades and Hawkens will increase in value due to attrition and nostalgia as they will never be made again.

So if your rifle is in decent shape, I suggest that you keep it intact or do a stock change and keep the original stock intact. If it's in poor shape you can do what you want...

You will find that re-doing a TC is kind of like the kid's story "If you Give a Mouse a Cookie".

You can change stocks, locks, triggers and all the hardware. If you go far enough, you will find you could have got a complete GPR or a good start on a longrifle kit.

Leman stripes revisited

Zonie explained the Leman process and the rope myth.
The reason the pattern repeats on a Leman could be the brush as Zonie stated or that the factory artist-artists did each stripe pretty close to the same.

Some sources say Leman used India Ink for the stripes. India Ink was cheap and the stripes were applied before stain or varnish. Some India inks contain iron as part of the pigment. That's why the black ink on old documents turn brown, it oxidizes.

On wood this iron pigment would react with the wood much like a iron nitrate stain does "aqua fortis" and the wood could have a black burned look to it.
Same thing happens to old barn wood where the iron nails pigment the wood.

The burning rope simply does not work. A rope does not burn like a fuse. The rope is round so only a small portion is in contact with the wood.

A Candy Cane striped ramrod is where I think this myth started.
Here a leather or cloth tape was wrapped around the rod, it was stained, maybe by aqua-fortis and activated over a fire, the tape or cordage was removed leaving a candy cane pattern of stained and unstained.

No evidence that Leman did this. Why do that when 5 stocks could have been brushed by hand in the same time it took to wrap just 1?

If a Leman was candy cane striped, Leman did not do it.
 

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