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Tightening the Jaw Screw?

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Danny Ross

40 Cal.
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This may have been discussed here before and if it has I am sorry for asking. Is it possible to "Over Tighten" the Jaw Screw when tightening down on a piece of flint? If you can, what damage can be done doing so? I have often wondered and have tried to find information as to what is proper, such as as tight as you can get it or a good snug fit, but haven't found anything. I watched a video a little while back when the shooter fired and the flint came back at the camera, or so it appeared. So I thought I would come to the group I feel is most knowledgeable. Thanks for the insight you give. DANNY
 
This may have been discussed here before and if it has I am sorry for asking. Is it possible to "Over Tighten" the Jaw Screw when tightening down on a piece of flint? If you can, what damage can be done doing so? I have often wondered and have tried to find information as to what is proper, such as as tight as you can get it or a good snug fit, but haven't found anything. I watched a video a little while back when the shooter fired and the flint came back at the camera, or so it appeared. So I thought I would come to the group I feel is most knowledgeable. Thanks for the insight you give. DANNY
Well I suppose it would be possible to overtighten it but if you use common sense you should be allright. You are not going to hurt the rock or the leather and I doubt you would strip the threads. My thought has always been to support the **** as best you can while tightening the jaw screw. Most modern locks are cast parts. Although there are really good quality locks available cast parts not as strong as forged. I would doubt anything would break unless there was an internal flaw from the original casting and that is highly unlikely. Have never heard of any overtightening or breaking anything. Ive had a half **** notch break on a tumbler once which was easily replaced. I was letting someone shoot my rifle and I believe they caused that breakage. Just make sure the flint is good n tight.
James
 
With a high hump flint and depending on the position of the hump and flint, you could break the top jaw by over tightening.

Also could strip the threads, male or female by over tightening.
 
With a high hump flint and depending on the position of the hump and flint, you could break the top jaw by over tightening.

Also could strip the threads, male or female by over tightening.
I was about to point that out. I saw a top jaw crack with a lumpy flint.
I don’t know if things would have been different if it had been a little looser
 
Is it possible to "Over Tighten" the Jaw Screw when tightening down on a piece of flint? If you can, what damage can be done doing so?
Beware of overtightening (not needed): the hammer jaws are micro-melted and not forged as in the past, so they are not as reliable...
As for the rest, I have never heard of jaw breakage, but with new hammer, I don't know : that stays made by micro-injection with always a risk of bad homogeneity depending on the quality of the manufacturing...
 
How timely. I just had this happen 2 days ago.


jaw screw.jpg



I'm sure you'll all say it's because of my junk Traditions lock but I'm sure it was because I got carried away tightening it with a high hump flint that wasn't locking in to my liking. The good news is I found replacements for $5 each.
 
Beware of overtightening (not needed)
Amen, Bro. However, this is one of the bugg-a-boos that make flint shooting both a challenge and frustration. Most locks have either a slot or hole for tightening. A slot (usually) requires a special made tool to fit so as to reduce the chances of spreading or breaking the top. A hole requires a small, stiff rod. Both are extra items of 'stuff' to be carried in the shooting bag. As for tightening, methinks common sense is all that is required. If you crank down with all your strength and something breaks the only one that can be blamed is yerself.
 
Torque specs: Tighten until something breaks.. then back off 1/4 turn.
Rule farmed have told me work trailers. Load till it breaks, weld it now you know what the limit is😂
I have bent top jaw screws, but I think they were soft and the force of the shooting on near the same spot had the flint push it in to a curve
Saw this on ‘good’ locks, a Davis and an L& R
 
Not sure if this relates but was my experience, The lock I had trouble with, was on a Center-Mark Fusil Grenadier that I owned, now passed on to a Grandson. In order to get it tight enough, had to drill a cross hole in the jaw screw and insert a hardened square nail and use lead sheet to hold the flint. Anything less, the flint would loosen with use. The jaw screw was too small in dia. and soft. After a couple of tension shears of the jaw screw, I case hardened a new jaw screw which worked fine. Told the lock manufacturer about it and I recommended a higher strength material for the jaw screw. Now that may result in stripping out the **** screw threads. He was going to look into it. Not sure what or if anything was ever done? Never had to buy another jaw screw, however and Grandson is still using the case hardened screw.
 
I'd think any screw can be overtightened. I tighten the screw until the flint won't move with an energetic "tug" and can't be tightened any more with screwdriver and fingers. It can still be turned even tighter but only with using the hand & firm grip.
 
Flint hammer top jaw screws need only be tightened , so that the flint doesn't move back and forth with simple finger pressure. To assure the screw can tighten as tight as it should be, put some grease on the threads and widen and deepen slightly the screw slot in the top of the jaw screw. The tightness applied to the jaw screw ,using the proper screw driver in a good slot , with LEATHER around the flint should be best to hold the flint. One thing sure , if the flint can move in the hammer jaws , Fewer sparks will be generated resulting in uncertain ignition. In 50 + years with flint locks , I have never seen a broken top jaw screw. There's always a first time for anything...............oldwood
 
How timely. I just had this happen 2 days ago.


View attachment 112347


I'm sure you'll all say it's because of my junk Traditions lock but I'm sure it was because I got carried away tightening it with a high hump flint that wasn't locking in to my liking. The good news is I found replacements for $5 each.

That **** turn screw is drilled for what we call a "Tommy bar" , which can easily allow an over tightening leading to breakage.
The standard flat Screwdriver slot in the **** turn screw gives more "feel" to tightening a Flint in the Jaws IMHO.
 
How timely. I just had this happen 2 days ago.


View attachment 112347


I'm sure you'll all say it's because of my junk Traditions lock but I'm sure it was because I got carried away tightening it with a high hump flint that wasn't locking in to my liking. The good news is I found replacements for $5 each.
WHERE PLEASE TELL ME WHERE THIS JUST HAPPENED :(
 
How timely. I just had this happen 2 days ago.
Where did you find a replacement for $5.00 ? Always handy to have a spare
View attachment 112347


I'm sure you'll all say it's because of my junk Traditions lock but I'm sure it was because I got carried away tightening it with a high hump flint that wasn't locking in to my liking. The good news is I found replacements for $5 each.
 
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