Tip Curtis Lancaster Kit

[stuartg]

And here's the last one! I'm going to solder the middle tenon at the waist since she's pretty dainty there. I just need to file the edges down a bit to match the obliques of the barrel, and on to pinning the darn thing.

 

[kaintuck]

Looks good and square to me!
Round off all those hand eating corners....... :hatsoff:

 

[jamesthomas]

Yep, Looking good!, you were a busy guy last night!. Now round off the sides to match the barrel flats.

 

[stuartg]

Thanks guys. Yeah, I was pretty busy last night - in the zone. Dovetailing wasn't as bad as I thought. I guess I've read so much on how to do it it actually felt like I've done it before.

As for the filing the edges, do you guys use a specific file or method? It's so close to my barrel, I don't want to file my barrel.

 

[jamesthomas]

Take a magic marker and mark how far you want to file them down, then take'em out and file down to where you've marked. A little extra doesn't matter cause they will be on the bottom of the barrel.

 

[stuartg]

I've already peened them...I guess I was so excited to get them in I didn't even think about that!

Taking them out makes a ton of sense...dang it.

 

[Blackbruin]

It's gonna be hidden, just file them while they are on, no need to remove, not like you need to worry much if you hit the barrel. Not like it's gonna loosen your barrel to inlet fit?

 

[Birddog6]

Just file them off with the barrel flat & go on. Nothing fancy, file them off & proceed. Nobody will see them anyway..... well.. :idunno: unless I come to inspect.. :rotf: It is less to inlet that way. You leave that edge hanging out & you have to inlet it too.

You did a good job on the dovetails. :hatsoff:

Before ya solder that dovetail on, clean any/all oil out of the bore. Solder the dovetail good, let it cool, then oil the bore good with a very tight patch so you know it got into the rifling there. You don't and it will rust there. :slap: And if you don't take the oil or grease out when ya solder it , the lube will carbonize (bake out) and then it is a bugger to get out. So. clean, solder, cool, lube well....

Keith Lisle

PS: Get the barrel all the way In & Secure (pinned) before ya finish the lock . Get the lock in, fitted to the barrel, then bolted in. Then do the trigger inlet, then tang to triggerplate screw. Then the LOP & buttplate. Then triggerguard & Toeplate.

 

[stuartg]

Keith, you have a whole page or two in my longrifle building notebook - good stuff. I can't tell you how appreciative I am for the help.

For the solder, I have some lead-free rosin core solder (96% tin, 4% silver) that melts at 422.6 degrees F. It's some stuff I have laying around. Will that work?

 

[Birddog6]

Can't say.. Never tried it with anything except High Force 44 ? I think it is , or Silver Bearing Solder from Brownells.
That is what I was told to use many years ago & when something works well for me, I normally try to stay with it.

Keith Lisle

 

[MSW]

Just file them off with the barrel flat & go on. Nothing fancy, file them off & proceed. Nobody will see them anyway..... well.. :idunno: unless I come to inspect.. :rotf: It is less to inlet that way. You leave that edge hanging out & you have to inlet it too.

You did a good job on the dovetails. :hatsoff:

Before ya solder that dovetail on, clean any/all oil out of the bore. Solder the dovetail good, let it cool, then oil the bore good with a very tight patch so you know it got into the rifling there. You don't and it will rust there. :slap: And if you don't take the oil or grease out when ya solder it , the lube will carbonize (bake out) and then it is a bugger to get out. So. clean, solder, cool, lube well....

Keith Lisle

PS: Get the barrel all the way In & Secure (pinned) before ya finish the lock . Get the lock in, fitted to the barrel, then bolted in. Then do the trigger inlet, then tang to triggerplate screw. Then the LOP & buttplate. Then triggerguard & Toeplate.

thanks for the tip - it's something I would no doubt have messed up!

:hatsoff:

 

[Lock Nut]

Does Tip Curtis have a web site to order from?

 

[Sean Gadhar]

Does Tip Curtis have a web site to order from?

:haha: I think we have all asked that at some point, and NO

before you ask why, because he already has more work then he can do, why tend a site when he can build guns :wink:

I'm two weeks from calling him, when I change jobs my old job is going to pay me for the 138 hours of unused PTO, I'm gona use it for an elk rifle I'm ah thinkin.

 

[Lock Nut]

My Bad :idunno:

 

[stuartg]

Heck, give Tip a call. He's a super nice guy. A website would be great to peruse his inventory, but then you'd lose out on some great conversation.

 

[Sean Gadhar]

My Bad :idunno:

Not your bad at all. :v Like I said we have just about all asked it. When you have been here a bit & see it come up about once every two months you will see why it becomes a little funny.

 

[kaintuck]

Basically, if you want it in BP.....tip has it in stock.
No need for a catalog, when it's all there......he was even supplying TOTW until recently.....I think
His inventory could swallow theirs.

Research the style of rifle you want, then call him and order. Specify what lock, as has a bunch....if you can stop by....he'll fetch all the parts from the racks of inventory, and place them all together on the front counter.
Best if you can stop...as he has maybe a thousand stocks in precarves that you could pick out one.....
He has been at it since the late 50s?.......
:thumbsup:

 

[fleener]

I stopped at Tips Thursday of last week on my way from Iowa to Eastern TN going to Oak Ridge to shoot.

Had a nice visit and almost bought a rifle.......he said he is currently over a year out for a custom build.

He does have quite a bit of stuff.....

He did have 20 or so guns ready to go.

Fleener

 

[stuartg]

Just finished my middle tenon with my first soldering job. Luck must've been on my side as it was a success on the first try.

I used an unconventional method by using my noodle, but worked. I sanded the tenon and barrel, applied flux to both, then took the soldering wire and smashed it flat with some vise grips, and placed it in between the tenon and barrel. I then clamped it down, shaded around the tenon with pencil lead, and torched around the tenon until I saw the solder bubble.

All of this was done after swabbing the barrel out of any oil. Then after the soldering I swabbed with a tight patch using Rig. (As per Keith's recommendation)

Anyway, time to pin this sucker! Well, maybe this weekend.

 

[Birddog6]

I have done many of them that way. Works especially well on a front sight on a fowler
& you don't want solder going all over the place.

Good Job ! :hatsoff:

Keith Lisle

PS: A note of caution, as had this happen many years ago. Make sure the pliers ya smash the solder with are Clean.
I used old pliers one time & they had dirt & old grease trapped in the teeth, contaminated the solder & joint & the solder would not bond to the barrel. :slap: