To rust. Or not to rust. Laurel mountain forge browning solution.

[thatoneguy]

So I ordered the lmf barrel brown and degreaser. But the instructions say nothing about rust. I'm sure this is a stupid question, but does that mean I don't have to rust the barrel?? I would rather not, but if I have to I will...but again instructions say nothing about any sort of rust. It is a cold brown so...first build and this is the only part I'm worried about.

 

[Grizzly Adams]

The browning solution is to accomplish a controlled rusting process.

 

[thatoneguy]

So rub down the barrel with it, let it rust to appropriate level. Then hot water and baking soda it?

 

[Grizzly Adams]

Essentially. I have never used cold brown, but here is a link to some instructions that will help you.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/212853/

 

[thatoneguy]

Thanks! Only problem I'm gonna have is the torch part. Well, I guess I'll gather the rest of the things I need before I start browning the barrel.

 

[Grizzly Adams]

You're very welcome!

 

[Vaino]

I've never used a torch when using LMF browning....Fred

 

[BillinOregon]

I used a torch, but back when I was trying to get a good brown with the old Birchwood Casey Plum Brown. I never did get an even finish using that stuff.

 

[thatoneguy]

So then what's the process?? In all sorts of confused. Again. I'm a complete beginner. So I have little to no idea what to do.

 

[galamb]

Here's the instructions on their webpage.

Easy to follow...

(LMF)

 

[thatoneguy]

Okay. So there is a torch involved. Thanks guys! I'll jump to it then.

 

[necchi]

Jesus, there is no torch involved with LMF browning,, you have been supplied with two links to the LMF instructions in this thread.

 

[thatoneguy]

At the very end of the link in the browning section. To get rid of any extra moisture there is a torch involved. Not for the actual process but for finishing up. My question was answered. Thank you

 

[Col. Batguano]

Before you begin, coat the bore thoroughly with oil. You don't want the browning solution getting in there. The longer you let each coat sit between cardings, the deeper the pits will be. You might want to inspect the bore periodically between coats too just to make sure no rust has started in there.


Make sure you neutralize that stuff thoroughly when you're satisfied with the coverage. I use a couple of baking soda "paste" treatments, followed by rigorous washings in lukewarm water, then followed by a couple more scrubbings with household ammonia. Then, give it a couple of days to see if any "new" rust starts to develop. Once you're satisfied that it's stable, then you can give it the final heavy oil treatment. It's the oil that prevents more rusting when exposed to the elements, or ordinary humidity. It also makes the color more of a chocolate brown than the reddish rust color.

 

[don hepler]

I brown with LMF, and there is no need for a torch. Wipe it lightly with the solution, using cotton swab. Then let it rust. Wipe it down with a piece of canvas or duck cloth, or denim. The dry cloth will remove excess scale. Then, apply more solution and let it rust. Scrub it down with dry cloth. You can wet it with water, to get an idea of how it will look. When you reach the desired finish, then neutralize. Watch it for a few days, to make sure the browning has stopped. Put oil on metal and then you can wax the barrel, for a nice dryer finish.

 

[Zonie]

As you've probably discovered, browning a barrel with LMF requires applying one light coat of the solution and letting it form a thin coating of brown rust.

Wipe off any loose rust that has formed and apply another coating of the solution. Again, let it lightly rust. Wipe off the loose rust and repeat the process.

One of the things about the application is, do NOT apply overlapping coats. If you do, a layer of copper will form and all rusting/browning will come to a halt in that area.

If copper forms, the only fix is to sand it off.
Then, start the process all over again in that area.

After 4 or more rust cycles you should have a nicely browned barrel.

 

[necchi]

One of the things about the application is, do NOT apply overlapping coats. If you do, a layer of copper will form and all rusting/browning will come to a halt in that area.

Even rubbing one coat on will cause the copper,
just one light pass is enough.
Don't worry, you will see the copper color if it comes,,
If you get it, come on back and folks will help ya out with that too.
After one light application;
Fix up a wire that holds the barrel and hang it over the rod in your shower,, put some newspaper underneath it and turn the hot water on, close the door to get a good steam started.
The high humidity will "jump start" the rust process.

 

[thatoneguy]

Thanks gentleman! I was thinking about putting a wine cork in the barrel opening and a screw where the nipple goes. Then doing as you guys are saying. But I don't know what size plug. Also, I just noticed that the nipple doesn't go all the way down. I can still see some of the ridges. Is that normal? As for the humidity to start the rust it's plenty humid over here. It just rained so it's humid, but i didn't think of hanging it up! Thanks!

 

[thatoneguy]

When you say "paste" I'm guessing hot water and baking soda somehow made into a paste??? Shouldn't it be liquid?

 

[fleener]

you don't have to worry about plugging the nipple hole or the end of the barrel. Just be careful and it will not be an issue.


Fleener