Took the newly built flintlock 45 cal to the range today

[ChuckJonesWagon]

Finally got a chance, and slightly warmer weather (40) to get to the range. First time to shoot the newly built pistol.

Well, I got off 5 consecutive shots. At 25 yards the group wasn't fantastic, but considering the barrel is a 12" piece from a 45Cal rifle barrel with a 1-66 twist I thought it was OK for the first try. Grouped about 4" at 25yds. That's with a PRB and 40gr 3F. Nice load to shoot from a 45. No heavy recoil.

Then I went to load the 6th shot. Got the ball 75% down and it stuck. And I mean STUCK!!! I tried my best at the range to pull the ball, but no luck....plus my hands were getting very cold. So home I went, poured some BP liquid cleaner down the bore and let is soak for 30 minutes. No luck. I kept pulling out lead that was twisted in the ball puller!!

Finally I just removed the barrel, dumped more cleaning juice in it, came back in 30 minutes and after another 3 tries I got the ball to come out.

I'm chalking it up to a new barrel that needs broken in. I was using Balistol for a lube. I may do some lapping to remove the "new" of sharp rifling that is likely there.

 

[nick_1]

beautiful looking piece.

 

[FlaminCrow]

Turned out very nice. Interested in how it groups with that long twist. Keep us posted.

 

[M. De Land]

Finally got a chance, and slightly warmer weather (40) to get to the range. First time to shoot the newly built pistol.

Well, I got off 5 consecutive shots. At 25 yards the group wasn't fantastic, but considering the barrel is a 12" piece from a 45Cal rifle barrel with a 1-66 twist I thought it was OK for the first try. Grouped about 4" at 25yds. That's with a PRB and 40gr 3F. Nice load to shoot from a 45. No heavy recoil.

Then I went to load the 6th shot. Got the ball 75% down and it stuck. And I mean STUCK!!! I tried my best at the range to pull the ball, but no luck....plus my hands were getting very cold. So home I went, poured some BP liquid cleaner down the bore and let is soak for 30 minutes. No luck. I kept pulling out lead that was twisted in the ball puller!!

Finally I just removed the barrel, dumped more cleaning juice in it, came back in 30 minutes and after another 3 tries I got the ball to come out.

I'm chalking it up to a new barrel that needs broken in. I was using Balistol for a lube. I may do some lapping to remove the "new" of sharp rifling that is likely there.

I made a .54 cal percussion single shot from a 60 pitch rifle barrel and it has been accurate to 50 yards tested over sand bags, A round ball does not need much spin to stabilize it,
Lapping is a good idea with poured lead slugs in a rough barrel. I've saved quite a few rifle and pistol barrels doing it.
This one was completely made of spare parts from other guns,

 

[denster]

Good workmanship and style did you build it?

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

I made a .54 cal percussion single shot from a 60 pitch rifle barrel and it has been accurate to 50 yards tested over sand bags, A round ball does not need much spin to stabilize it,
Lapping is a good idea with poured lead slugs in a rough barrel. I've saved quite a few rifle and pistol barrels doing it.
This one was completely made of spare parts from other guns,

That's a very interesting little piece you have there. I love the grips wood grain. I built (many years ago) my 50 cal pistol that I still have and shoot today. It's very accurate and I use it for deer hunting. Recoil is fairly stout with 50gr 3F. I wold think with a heavy powder load your little pistol let's you know it's there.

 

[M. De Land]

That's a very interesting little piece you have there. I love the grips wood grain. I built (many years ago) my 50 cal pistol that I still have and shoot today. It's very accurate and I use it for deer hunting. Recoil is fairly stout with 50gr 3F. I wold think with a heavy powder load your little pistol let's you know it's there.

Wow,have you taken a deer with your 50 cal pistol ? The load you mentioned is the exact load I use in my cobbled together .54 parts gun.
Were you using it for deer from a tree stand or blind? I'd surely love to hear the story of any deer harvested with your gun!
On the .54 parts gun the stock was a walnut plank I bought at a garage sale, the lock was a small rifle, barrel was a rifle barrel cut to nine inches with both sides milled slimmer. The forend and trigger guard were milled out of brass stock laying around under the work bench, rear peep sight was from a TC rifle with a ghost ring aperture soldered on and the front sight was milled from bar stock and dovetail mounted.
Your .45 is well done and has great lines. What finish is on the stock? I really like those bottom caps and curl back triggers. Nice work ! Is it browned or blued ? Can we get a picture of your hunting .50 cal too ?

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

Wow,have you taken a deer with your 50 cal pistol ? The load you mentioned is the exact load I use in my cobbled together .54 parts gun.
Were you using it for deer from a tree stand or blind? I'd surely love to hear the story of any deer harvested with your gun!
On the .54 parts gun the stock was a walnut plank I bought at a garage sale, the lock was a small rifle, barrel was a rifle barrel cut to nine inches with both sides milled slimmer. The forend and trigger guard were milled out of brass stock laying around under the work bench, rear peep sight was from a TC rifle with a ghost ring aperture soldered on and the front sight was milled from bar stock and dovetail mounted.
Your .45 is well done and has great lines. What finish is on the stock? I really like those bottom caps and curl back triggers. Nice work ! Is it browned or blued ? Can we get a picture of your hunting .50 cal too ?

Just to clarify my 50 cal flintlock pistol, I have shot one whitetail doe with it. She ran about 50 yards and laid down. I let her there for sometime. My concern was she just needed to make it another 100 yards into posted property that the owner patrols it like a hawk...and if your wounded deer makes it to his property, you are not coming in for it. (My group figured he would ultimately drag it into his barn, skin and cut it up....no tag required).

So, when I approached the doe, I took the final shot with my 50 Cal long rifle. So, technically I've not killed one with it. But I do take it out and should the opportunity arise....... I hunt from the ground. I have physical limitations that make tree stands difficult to climb. With the pistol, IMHO, you gotta be close. Like max distance of 30 yards. So, I "take" it hunting.....but opportunities to get real close don't happen all that often.

Now, I shoot the 240gr Hornady Pa Conical out of my 50 caliber pistol and rifle. Out of the pistol the velocity averages 939fps and the rifle averages 1,950fps.

Here's my 50 cal flintlock pistol. Curly Walnut wood. Toughest wood I've ever worked with and would never build one with it again. But the grip grain is (IMHO) really pretty.

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

We had (finally) some beautiful weather today.....60 degree range!!

So, and I'll post the pic's later, what I'm experiencing is, shooting from a rest at 25yds, the pistol is shooting consistently high. But that's no big deal.....just some site adjustments. However, I get two shots with in maybe 3.5" or so (could be more...the target is still in my truck and I've been busy) and then one "flyer" that's 7-8" high.

This was shooting a PRB using first 30gr 3F, then 40gr 3F.

40gr will provide some recoil, but 30gr is very pleasant to shoot. I'm resting off a front rifle rest, so perhaps I need to go to a sandbag for even more stability.

The lock and ignition are functioning great. The lock is an old Dixie (this is the first use of it) with and L&R Manton hammer bent to get the proper angle. I've got a total of around 25 shots and the flint is still looking great and working fine.

I knew when I built this that the use of the 12" GM 45cal rifle barrel may not work well...or be as accurate as a barrel made for a pistol. I'm going to continue to work with this barrel to see if I can get consistent, better groups. But if not, another $100 for a Rice pistol barrel that will fit (once I install the breech plug, sites, and barrel underlug) will likely be done.

But the build was fun, kept me busy during the very cold winter, and replacing the barrel will look like it belonged there from the start. But I'm not there yet!!

 

[Big Tom 52]

That's a fine-looking pistol

 

[11th corps]

ChuckJonesWag
Are you shooting in the monthly postal match on this forum?
Pistols at 15 yards, rested or off hand.
btw, nice work.

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

ChuckJonesWag
Are you shooting in the monthly postal match on this forum?
Pistols at 15 yards, rested or off hand.
btw, nice work.

Thanks. I am not shooting the monthly postal match.

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

As I was perusing post on front stuffer's last evening I came across one and the light bulb (as dim as it is sometimes) went off.

I was reading a thread on the loading of the PRB and realized that I was doing exactly what I SHOULD NOT be doing. When I load the PRB, instead of seating it firmly against the powder charge, I was seating it....followed up by two to three good "rams" on the PRB. Well.....that (as the post indicated) can give the RB a bit of an obtuse shape. So, when fired it's not round coming down the pipe....but a bit oval shape which allows gas's to escape around it and cause inconsistent velocities.

The more I thought about this the more I realized my bad habit is the result of loading and shooting primarily Hornady and Buffalo Ballet's conicals in my 50 cal's and the Minie in my 54 Cal. The longer projectile can withstand a few good whacks and not be effected as much as a RB.

So, next trip to the range.....soft but firm will be the key words.

 

[M. De Land]

As I was perusing post on front stuffer's last evening I came across one and the light bulb (as dim as it is sometimes) went off.

I was reading a thread on the loading of the PRB and realized that I was doing exactly what I SHOULD NOT be doing. When I load the PRB, instead of seating it firmly against the powder charge, I was seating it....followed up by two to three good "rams" on the PRB. Well.....that (as the post indicated) can give the RB a bit of an obtuse shape. So, when fired it's not round coming down the pipe....but a bit oval shape which allows gas's to escape around it and cause inconsistent velocities.

The more I thought about this the more I realized my bad habit is the result of loading and shooting primarily Hornady and Buffalo Ballet's conicals in my 50 cal's and the Minie in my 54 Cal. The longer projectile can withstand a few good whacks and not be effected as much as a RB.

So, next trip to the range.....soft but firm will be the key words.

Do you mean bouncing the ram rod off the the ball when loading ? If you recover your shot patches they will tell you if all is well. A good patch should be able to be washed, loaded and shot again without any holes or tears in it. A frayed perimeter edge means nothing though, only rips and tears.
A properly fitting patch will leave it's weave pattern both on the lands and groove of a pure lead ball.
The best patch material I have ever found is .018 thick cotton felt shirts I have worn out and keep to make patch strips or die cut round patches and use windshield wash winter grade for lube. The weave needs to be tight enough to not see holes through when held up to a light.
A loading stand and depth marked loading rod is the best way to get a consistent ball seat although the grip of the pistol should have a reinforcement rod running up through almost to the lock base to insure against stock breakage. Thompson Center Patriots are famous for this.

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

Do you mean bouncing the ram rod off the the ball when loading ? If you recover your shot patches they will tell you if all is well. A good patch should be able to be washed, loaded and shot again without any holes or tears in it. A frayed perimeter edge means nothing though, only rips and tears.
A properly fitting patch will leave it's weave pattern both on the lands and groove of a pure lead ball.
The best patch material I have ever found is .018 thick cotton felt shirts I have worn out and keep to make patch strips or die cut round patches and use windshield wash winter grade for lube. The weave needs to be tight enough to not see holes through when held up to a light.
A loading stand and depth marked loading rod is the best way to get a consistent ball seat although the grip of the pistol should have a reinforcement rod running up through almost to the lock base to insure against stock breakage. Thompson Center Patriots are famous for this.

Not "bouncing"...if you mean just letting the rod drop to bounce off the PRB. I mean giving a few good hard hits to the PRB. I load my pistols while they are in my home-made pistol loader. The loader's cut, and lined in heavy leather and follows the contour of the stock and the butt base rest against a heavy leather wrapped wooden stop. Very tiny chance of stock breakage. I C-clamp it to the bench.

IMHO, I think I may be giving too much and too many "whacks" when seating. But I'll know more next outing.

 

[Gtrubicon]

As I was perusing post on front stuffer's last evening I came across one and the light bulb (as dim as it is sometimes) went off.

I was reading a thread on the loading of the PRB and realized that I was doing exactly what I SHOULD NOT be doing. When I load the PRB, instead of seating it firmly against the powder charge, I was seating it....followed up by two to three good "rams" on the PRB. Well.....that (as the post indicated) can give the RB a bit of an obtuse shape. So, when fired it's not round coming down the pipe....but a bit oval shape which allows gas's to escape around it and cause inconsistent velocities.

The more I thought about this the more I realized my bad habit is the result of loading and shooting primarily Hornady and Buffalo Ballet's conicals in my 50 cal's and the Minie in my 54 Cal. The longer projectile can withstand a few good whacks and not be effected as much as a RB.

So, next trip to the range.....soft but firm will be the key words.

I started loading my flintlock rifle as you described a couple of months ago. It really helped with ignition which increased accuracy for me.

 

[D Yager]

I've seen lots of folks loading their muzzleloaders by whacking the snot out of the ball by bouncing the ramrod or outright pounding on it. I was surprised they actually hit the target they pointed the gun at. My own loading technique is to try push the ball down with as smooth of a stroke as possible and then give a firm push to seat the load. It works for me. I think the key to it is to have a well lubed patch, I use Pinesol, to help keep the fouling under control. I also shoot a Ferguson rifle and if it's not well lubed it will become very useless in a short time. I dip the ball in a tallow/beeswax/parrifin lube and use hi temp bearing grease on the breech screw.

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

I've seen lots of folks loading their muzzleloaders by whacking the snot out of the ball by bouncing the ramrod or outright pounding on it. I was surprised they actually hit the target they pointed the gun at. My own loading technique is to try push the ball down with as smooth of a stroke as possible and then give a firm push to seat the load. It works for me. I think the key to it is to have a well lubed patch, I use Pinesol, to help keep the fouling under control. I also shoot a Ferguson rifle and if it's not well lubed it will become very useless in a short time. I dip the ball in a tallow/beeswax/parrifin lube and use hi temp bearing grease on the breech screw.

It's funny how sometimes the lightbulb goes off. I have a new box of Hornady RB's that I've been loading, and I had some really old RB's that were lose in an old tool box I picked up at a garage sale.

The old one's were obviously a bit out of round, but not enough that they couldn't load. Every time I loaded one of those old ones I was well off the POI of the Hornady's.

Click!!!!

 

[45man]

I don't have a picture on this puter but I made a wood gadget with a large spring inside that I put on the ramrod after the ball is seated. I compress the spring fully to get an even seat on the powder. This has increased accuracy by a tremendous amount.

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

I don't have a picture on this puter but I made a wood gadget with a large spring inside that I put on the ramrod after the ball is seated. I compress the spring fully to get an even seat on the powder. This has increased accuracy by a tremendous amount.

Wow! That's an excellent idea. Coil spring? Did you find the spring in your stuff drawer? (Everybody has a "stuff drawer")