torque setting for percussion pistol nipples

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File a ramp on the tightening faces of the nipple tool

When too much torque is applied, it slips off the nipple

A lot of work that has no purpose. Its a fix (if you want to call it that) looking for a problem. I mean seriously.

Its not needed. Fun to discuss why but its not needed.
 
well I've looked and not seen an answer for this one.

"what is a reasonable torque setting when installing nipples after cleaning?"

there's room for a lot of jokes obviously about this one but would like a serious answer.

10lbs ?

13lbs?

any thoughts appreciated. lol

camo

well I've looked and not seen an answer for this one.

"what is a reasonable torque setting when installing nipples after cleaning?"

there's room for a lot of jokes obviously about this one but would like a serious answer.

10lbs ?

13lbs?

any thoughts appreciated.

camo
Just snug them up a little.
Don’t over think it.

Some of my biggest pet peeves are people who over-righten vehicle lug nuts, lawnmower blades, AND SCOPE RING SCREWS.
There is a special place in Hell for people who over-tighten lug nuts to the point that a lug wrench with a 4 foot cheater bar.
C’mon, I know you’re out there, and you know WHO you an
 
Just snug them up a little.
Don’t over think it.

Some of my biggest pet peeves are people who over-righten vehicle lug nuts, lawnmower blades, AND SCOPE RING SCREWS.
There is a special place in Hell for people who over-tighten lug nuts to the point that a lug wrench with a 4 foot cheater bar.
C’mon, I know you’re out there, and you know WHO you an
 
Considering just what counts as credentials to print a FAQ. So many seem to consider popular consensus as the best choice of a "how to". Follow the average, be average...nsp
got it.......so......

whistlepig patch grease (see whistlepig patch lube thread) mixed 25% / 75% with bees wax.........

then wipe threads partially with .015 pillow ticking patch...........

then 9 3/4 lbs/in.

will record in my notes for future reference.

camo
 
There is a special place in Hell for people who over-tighten lug nuts to the point that a lug wrench with a 4 foot cheater bar.

Back in my 20s I took the practical test for Trooper/Fish and game position. One test was to put a tire on a car and the lugs had to meet a torque spec, the idea being it does you no good to change your tire and then have it fall off.

Now I was like 195 lbs of pure muscle. No problem (the ladies testing had problems). When the guy checking the lugs checked mine it was, this is nuts, I can't get it off! So I undid them for him!

He said, that was overboard.

I told him, you said the goal was not to have them come off, not make it easy on you. Now you can't argue those sure were not coming off (one other guy did the same)

What I did not tell him was if I was in that position chasing someone and had to change the tire, I would put 3 lugs on, make sure they were tight. Yea you can run with 3 (don't ask me how I know - another story of a friend driving the Alcan)
 
well I've looked and not seen an answer for this one.

"what is a reasonable torque setting when installing nipples after cleaning?"

there's room for a lot of jokes obviously about this one but would like a serious answer.

10lbs ?

13lbs?

any thoughts appreciated.

camo
I've never heard or read of one either, good question ! I've always just snugged them up firmly with an appropriate nipple wrench and have never had a problem with insertion or removal.
 
Just snug them up a little.
Don’t over think it.

Some of my biggest pet peeves are people who over-righten vehicle lug nuts, lawnmower blades, AND SCOPE RING SCREWS.
There is a special place in Hell for people who over-tighten lug nuts to the point that a lug wrench with a 4 foot cheater bar.
C’mon, I know you’re out there, and you know WHO you an
Yeah and the lug snaps off often as not when you do lean into it. I use an impact driver to vibrate them loose when they're on that tight.
 
Bottom line is just snug it down, its how they are intended to function.

For for lug nuts, the only time I horsed on any was for the test, it was a pass or fail and I was making sure I passed.
 
Its a fun subject but as noted, none needed and it was and is not designed to need it. Not something you carry in you possible bag!

Torque wrenches did not exist when they designed these guns (yea you could apply it to today's threads and do so but..;..).

As an aside and one I found appalling. One of my guys pointed out two empty holes on a a large fire pump case (4500 gpm x 450 hp engine) , a bit like an air cooled airplane engine that it came with a top that came off (about 1/3 the size of the body so it was substantial). I flipped off they were forcing holes but then I looked and it was, no, no threads in the cap, they are not forcing holes. This hole and that hole are but this one and that one are not.

Phew, its missing two bolts. What the hey? It turned out to assemble fire pump and engine they pulled the two bolts to put lifting eyes in and use as hoist points to move the pump to atach to the skid. Supposed to put the bolts in a bag on the back of the engine (and no idea why they would not replace the bolts then and there) so also werid.

Going through the manaul I could find no torque spec for those bolts. Huh, it is seriously important one, much like head bolts. So I called the factory. Nope, we have no spec. Insult to injury being a fire pump it is certified all to heck and change it at your peril getting into trouble with NFPA (fire pump cert orginaizaion) and the local authorites. Wow.

Factory said, just buy a couple of Grade 5 bolts (not even grade 8!) and good. Well we had 6 pumps and all were missing two bolts of course. Nope, not happening on my watch, you send us the bolts you use, I ain't going to be hung for putting non spec hardware on (each and every component technailly is specified and if you replace something, it has to be the same exact spec item). We had coolant hoses on the engine we were supposed to use the exact mfg and spec if we replaced them (we finally got Corporte Safety to address it and they told everyone to go fly a kite, anything that was a standard item we got their written aproval to replace with equal or better)

I documented we did not have a Torque spec as the factory had none and used a grade 5 lubed spec (anti seize).

If it has a gasket (and this did) you should have a spec (you may not use it as mechanics get a feel and its good enough) but its there in the book. 180 psi pump and the ft lbs of force are in the thousands. No spec. On those when we worked on them we borrowed the 3 ft Torque wrecnh from Vehcile maint and torqued them. No guessing with those kind of forces though the factory was perfecly happy to. It truly can be werid.
 
Made my own wrench from a 5mm deep socket and a Dremel cutting wheel to modify it. Use some anti seize on the threads and give it a snug tug and das it.
 

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back in late 50s was working with dad overhauling Murphy diesel engine that powered a Madsen road pug . As I recall a replacement for a D8 Cat that had powered the mixer Murphy was assembled as 6 in bore x 6 in. stroke 6cyl inline overhead cam , mostly used in marine applications.
I asked dad what head torque was and he replied tighten as much as you can and then another 1/2 turn.
I said are you sure about that, and the answer was take a look in the manual.
Iused one ii drive breaker bar and 4 foot cheater as I only weighed abt168#.
I wish I had kept that book !

Blitz
 
I have a torque screwdriver for use at work, but don't use it on C&B nipples. But judging from what I'm used to I would *guess* 10-13 inch pounds?
That being said, I agree with Phil above and generally torque to 'snug' with a pinhead sized dot of anti-seize on the threads. Every time. I've never had one shoot loose nor had one seize up using this method. Oh, and get yourself a high quality nipple wrench, not the starter kit junk.
Truer words was never spoke.
 
Its a fun subject but as noted, none needed and it was and is not designed to need it. Not something you carry in you possible bag!

Torque wrenches did not exist when they designed these guns (yea you could apply it to today's threads and do so but..;..).

As an aside and one I found appalling. One of my guys pointed out two empty holes on a a large fire pump case (4500 gpm x 450 hp engine) , a bit like an air cooled airplane engine that it came with a top that came off (about 1/3 the size of the body so it was substantial). I flipped off they were forcing holes but then I looked and it was, no, no threads in the cap, they are not forcing holes. This hole and that hole are but this one and that one are not.

Phew, its missing two bolts. What the hey? It turned out to assemble fire pump and engine they pulled the two bolts to put lifting eyes in and use as hoist points to move the pump to atach to the skid. Supposed to put the bolts in a bag on the back of the engine (and no idea why they would not replace the bolts then and there) so also werid.

Going through the manaul I could find no torque spec for those bolts. Huh, it is seriously important one, much like head bolts. So I called the factory. Nope, we have no spec. Insult to injury being a fire pump it is certified all to heck and change it at your peril getting into trouble with NFPA (fire pump cert orginaizaion) and the local authorites. Wow.

Factory said, just buy a couple of Grade 5 bolts (not even grade 8!) and good. Well we had 6 pumps and all were missing two bolts of course. Nope, not happening on my watch, you send us the bolts you use, I ain't going to be hung for putting non spec hardware on (each and every component technailly is specified and if you replace something, it has to be the same exact spec item). We had coolant hoses on the engine we were supposed to use the exact mfg and spec if we replaced them (we finally got Corporte Safety to address it and they told everyone to go fly a kite, anything that was a standard item we got their written aproval to replace with equal or better)

I documented we did not have a Torque spec as the factory had none and used a grade 5 lubed spec (anti seize).

If it has a gasket (and this did) you should have a spec (you may not use it as mechanics get a feel and its good enough) but its there in the book. 180 psi pump and the ft lbs of force are in the thousands. No spec. On those when we worked on them we borrowed the 3 ft Torque wrecnh from Vehcile maint and torqued them. No guessing with those kind of forces though the factory was perfecly happy to. It truly can be werid.
the world has gone willing nilly!!!

no specs!!!

camo
 
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