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TOUCH HOLE LINERS

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Birddog6 & Rat
I just read your comments on idiots and idiot proof kits and it went right along with a comment I read somwhere that
"Nothing can be made idiot proof because idiots are so ingenious". :crackup:
I have also changed my mind about using removeable liners. If I would happen to dry load I'll load a few grains of 4F from a small container I'll start carring in my pouch. I don't use 4F for priming, but I will carry a small amount in case I dry load it seems like a good idea.

Regards to all, Dave
 
I don't use 4F for priming, but I will carry a small amount in case I dry load it seems like a good idea.

Or use the desperation method: FFg and a twig to pack it in.

"Nothing can be made idiot proof because idiots are so ingenious".

My Daddy had a variation: "A fool can ask more questions than a wise man can answer".
 
Well, to add to this controversy, if a liner is coned inside and not removed, how do you clean that inside cone?
Seems to me that it would quickly become caked with fouling and would no longer be a cone, just the hole made by the vent pick surrounded by hard fouling.
Maybe coned on the outside, like the allen screw type, would be better. The problem with that type is that the cone may extend higher than the frizzen will cover, leaving a gap for water to enter.
A friend has a fusil with no liner but the hole in the barrel is coned outside. His ignition seems very quick. :hmm: :hmm: :hmm:
 
The problem with that type is that the cone may extend higher than the frizzen will cover, leaving a gap for water to enter.

:hmm:
I'm not the debating type so this is just a thought / opinion:

I'm not sure a frizzen would ever seal tight enough over a vent liner to keep water out of it.

If there's ever any water in my hunting equation, I just assume without question that water is going to screw up my powder no matter how well things fit, if I don't take overt action to prevent it, like keeping the muzzle pointed down so nothing can run back alongside the barrel into the pan area, and keep the lock completely warm and dry up under my coat...wouldn't dare trust any frizzen to vent hole alignment no mater how perfect it might seem to be
:imo: :m2c:
 
Well, I'm going to add more. I built my .40 cal. almost 15 years ago and installed a stainless removeable liner (coned on the inside) which has never been removed. I drilled the hole 5/64ths and I use a priming wire after loading and before priming every shot. It has never loosened or blown out, and despite the fact that a guy in my club swears up and down that using a wire will make the touchhole larger, there has been no measurable enlargement of the hole. Also, I've never had any problems with excess fouling in the cone. There have been thousands of rounds put through her. Now explain that.
::
 
CoyoteJoe: The coned vent liner (coned from the inside) is self cleaning as when the ignitions occurs the blast blows out the vent & thus clears the liner. (Kinda like taking a funnel & pouring dirt in it & then wash it out with water or air) You will have a tad of buildup as you would with any vent if continous shooting & no cleaning of the vent with a pick or whatever, however I have had not problemw with any of mine clogging or building up, and I have owned dozens of flintlocks. I usually pick my vent on every shot & most of the time I load with a vent pick in the vent hole.

As far as cleaning it goes, if you use a flushing type cleaning method, you will again flush it out same as water flushing out a funnel & in fact it cleans it quite well, as the fouling is water soyable, and you are pressurising it thru that funnel when you push the fluid thru the vent, so it cleans it very well on the inside. On the removable ones I always clean the rifle with the vent in the rifle & sometimes take one out just to check it & they are always clean. Now the brass ones will tarnish, but they have no fouling on them.

:results:
 
I have an original,very high quality, Ryan&Watson English fowler that has a gold touch hole liner.
 
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