You mention Birchwood Casey bluing kit. I suggest slow rust bluing, as that is how they were done back in the day. Get some browning solution & follow the directions on it. Some also admit they're also for rust bluing. When the brown is uniform and dark, simply boil the barrel or other parts in distilled water to turn to blue/black. Card with steel wool. Then rinse/wipe well. Rinse with alcohol to remove water. Spray with LPS-2 & let it stay wet with that until it dries. There ya go! Admire the work!
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Traditions 3 band Enfield kit build
- Thread starter Mooney 78865
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You mention Birchwood Casey bluing kit. I suggest slow rust bluing, as that is how they were done back in the day. Get some browning solution & follow the directions on it. Some also admit they're also for rust bluing. When the brown is uniform and dark, simply boil the barrel or other parts in distilled water to turn to blue/black. Card with steel wool. Then rinse/wipe well. Rinse with alcohol to remove water. Spray with LPS-2 & let it stay wet with that until it dries. There ya go! Admire the work!
Today I finished up the stock by wetting it, letting it dry and sanding the raised graining with 400 grit. I did once last night, and again twice more this morning for a total of three times. The third time was really an exercise to confirm everything was good, which it was. I went with Birchwood Casey walnut that came in the kit for the stain. I had a couple of other flavors at the house but they were a bit too red for my liking.
I did a 50/50 stain water mix to start with. That was actually a bit light so I did multiple coats to get a "deeper" walnut. Now it's let it dry before doing the Tru oil for the finish. Hopefully later this evening (8-9 hours) it will be ready and I can let the first coat of the finish have all night to setup. So far, so good. The stock has no file or sanding marks and the stain looks evenly applied.
At some point I'll have to start the metal work, which I'm really not looking forward to. Especially bluing the barrel and bands. Never done it before. Actually never "built" a rifle before for that matter.
I did a 50/50 stain water mix to start with. That was actually a bit light so I did multiple coats to get a "deeper" walnut. Now it's let it dry before doing the Tru oil for the finish. Hopefully later this evening (8-9 hours) it will be ready and I can let the first coat of the finish have all night to setup. So far, so good. The stock has no file or sanding marks and the stain looks evenly applied.
At some point I'll have to start the metal work, which I'm really not looking forward to. Especially bluing the barrel and bands. Never done it before. Actually never "built" a rifle before for that matter.
Now you tell me!! LOL!
I would agree, 220 seemed to be fine. I really only used the 400 grit when I figured I had all of the finish work done, and that was lightly. I did use it when raising the grain. Probably over kill all in all.
But I need the experience, and the only way is to trial and error. My thought was to make sure I didn't see sanding marks after I stained. Then I'd be in for a treat....
Thanks for the tip. Not sure I'm competent enough at this point to to be that creative. Let alone have something long enough to boil the barrel in, or for that matter get it hot enough to apply the browning.
SO today's progress.
Started out by wetting the stock and sanding twice more this morning. Applied stain and waited for it to dry, which wasn't to long actually. I then applied the first coat of Tru Oil, sparingly. Waited a couple hours and applied a second coat. Waited another couple hours and sanded the entire stock with 400 grit prior to applying the 3rd coat. I'll leave it over night then sand and apply a 4th coat. Once the 4th coat is dry I'm going to use 0000 steel wool and see where I stand. I don't want a gloss finish, but a nice satin finish. Don't know if there will be more coats after the 4th, but we'll see. The "pores" in the seem to be filled nicely at this point but I think I should get a good solid seal over everything.
I also started prepping the barrel. I worked on the laser etched areas with 220 grit, then finished off the whole barrel with 400 grit emery. Still a couple areas I want to address, but overall it looks pretty darn good. I need to address the 3 bands and I will be ready for bluing. This I fear the most, really want to have a nice even, no streak finish.
Started out by wetting the stock and sanding twice more this morning. Applied stain and waited for it to dry, which wasn't to long actually. I then applied the first coat of Tru Oil, sparingly. Waited a couple hours and applied a second coat. Waited another couple hours and sanded the entire stock with 400 grit prior to applying the 3rd coat. I'll leave it over night then sand and apply a 4th coat. Once the 4th coat is dry I'm going to use 0000 steel wool and see where I stand. I don't want a gloss finish, but a nice satin finish. Don't know if there will be more coats after the 4th, but we'll see. The "pores" in the seem to be filled nicely at this point but I think I should get a good solid seal over everything.
I also started prepping the barrel. I worked on the laser etched areas with 220 grit, then finished off the whole barrel with 400 grit emery. Still a couple areas I want to address, but overall it looks pretty darn good. I need to address the 3 bands and I will be ready for bluing. This I fear the most, really want to have a nice even, no streak finish.
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Armi Sport contracts with Traditions. Armi Sport aka Armi Chiappa, actually produces them.
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If it were me I would file the modern markings off the top of the barrel, stamp the serial number on the bottom, sand the case hardening off the bands and lock and have a field altered Enfield like many from the Civil War. You will find one such altered musket in the Shiloh National Battlefield museum. Craig Berry has written extensively on Enfields. You could join the Authentic Campaigner online and find his stuff.
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Oh and I would leave the barrel the bands and the lock in the white.
Thanks for the information. I'll take a look. I have removed everything except the serial number from the barrel at this point, and had thought about putting the serial number on the bottom as well. Never thought about leaving it in the "white" though.
Here it is the 4th and I've keep up progress on the Enfield. Early this morning, after letting the stock dry with the third coat of Tru Oil, gave it a quick sand with 400 grit for what I hope is the last coat. I did do a section of the fore end with 0000 steel wool and really liked the look of a satin finish. Tomorrow, I'll do the whole stock and see what I've got.
Spent the rest of the morning working on the brass butt plate and end cap along with the three barrel bands. The brass is much easier to play with! I spent nearly twice as long on the 3 barrel bands as I did on the brass. Figured it just wouldn't be right to have casting seams on the bands.
Once I had those worked into shape I sucked up the courage to blue them and the barrel. As I said earlier I removed the manufactures laser etching of the barrel first with filing, then with finer and finer grits of emery cloth. Ultimately getting it down to 400 grit. Then following Birchwood Casey's instructions I degreased the rings and barrel, rinsed with cold water, applied the rust remover, rinsed with cold water and prepared to blue the pieces. When I had the barrel up on the stand I made to blue it, I could see noticeable tiger striping, runs, and various discolorations left from the rust remover. Not knowing if that would effect the final bluing I took the barrel and went over the whole thing with 400 grit again. That removed all of the shading differences. Then again with the degreaser and a rinse. FINALLY, after drying I was ready to do my first "blue job"!.
Bare in mind I have never done this, and had no idea what to expect (watched a number of YouTube videos though). All I really knew was I had at max a minute to get the chemical on and rinsed. Held my breath and dove in. It definitely was not what I was expecting! I thought I would be able to run the full length of the barrel with 1 applicator stroke, like I was staining wood. Not at all! Maybe 6-8 inches was all I was getting. Had to shift gears and REALLY get with the program. Applied the first coat and while rinsing I rubbed it down with 0000 steel wool to "blend" the color. Brought it in and dried it, scratched my head a bit and applied the second coat. This time I knew what to expect. I think the key was to rub down the barrel as I was rinsing and blending the variations in shades. I only needed two applications to get the desired color. Once dry I applied the Rust inhibitor per the instruction in the kit.
In the end it REALLY looks fantastic! The color is dark enough, (grey blue) without being "black" and there are no tiger stripes or blotchy bits. Really, really turned out well. Like everything else, the devil is in the details, or in this case, prep work.
Now the scary bit is done I'm left with finishing up the trigger guard and taking a look at the lock to get a bit more trigger pull. Right now you look at it sideways it releases. Shouldn't be too much trouble, a bit of filing should do the trick.
Now off to the neighbors for the celebration festivities! Happy Fourth!
Spent the rest of the morning working on the brass butt plate and end cap along with the three barrel bands. The brass is much easier to play with! I spent nearly twice as long on the 3 barrel bands as I did on the brass. Figured it just wouldn't be right to have casting seams on the bands.
Once I had those worked into shape I sucked up the courage to blue them and the barrel. As I said earlier I removed the manufactures laser etching of the barrel first with filing, then with finer and finer grits of emery cloth. Ultimately getting it down to 400 grit. Then following Birchwood Casey's instructions I degreased the rings and barrel, rinsed with cold water, applied the rust remover, rinsed with cold water and prepared to blue the pieces. When I had the barrel up on the stand I made to blue it, I could see noticeable tiger striping, runs, and various discolorations left from the rust remover. Not knowing if that would effect the final bluing I took the barrel and went over the whole thing with 400 grit again. That removed all of the shading differences. Then again with the degreaser and a rinse. FINALLY, after drying I was ready to do my first "blue job"!.
Bare in mind I have never done this, and had no idea what to expect (watched a number of YouTube videos though). All I really knew was I had at max a minute to get the chemical on and rinsed. Held my breath and dove in. It definitely was not what I was expecting! I thought I would be able to run the full length of the barrel with 1 applicator stroke, like I was staining wood. Not at all! Maybe 6-8 inches was all I was getting. Had to shift gears and REALLY get with the program. Applied the first coat and while rinsing I rubbed it down with 0000 steel wool to "blend" the color. Brought it in and dried it, scratched my head a bit and applied the second coat. This time I knew what to expect. I think the key was to rub down the barrel as I was rinsing and blending the variations in shades. I only needed two applications to get the desired color. Once dry I applied the Rust inhibitor per the instruction in the kit.
In the end it REALLY looks fantastic! The color is dark enough, (grey blue) without being "black" and there are no tiger stripes or blotchy bits. Really, really turned out well. Like everything else, the devil is in the details, or in this case, prep work.
Now the scary bit is done I'm left with finishing up the trigger guard and taking a look at the lock to get a bit more trigger pull. Right now you look at it sideways it releases. Shouldn't be too much trouble, a bit of filing should do the trick.
Now off to the neighbors for the celebration festivities! Happy Fourth!
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Looks like you are havin a blast. That is what this is all about.
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I have two original Enfield conversions from muzzleloaders to b*e*c*l*a*e*s if images of them are needed. In real life there were no bright-finished Enfields, unlike the various marks of Springfield of the same time-frame. I also have images of my two modern P-H Whitworth rifles and a Musketoon, again, if needed.
I am actually. For my first time building a kit it's gone very well. Lots of YouTube, searching on this forum and others has really helped.
I would like to see them. I'm committed to the finishes at this point, but always curious.
This morning I hit the stock with 0000 steel wool to start knocking the shine off. As it sits now, I have 4 coats of Tru Oil with the last application having over night to set up. I think I'm done with the Tru Oil, the finish is nice and even and after a bit of buffing with a terry cloth, has a nice luster without a gloss.
I installed the rear sight on the barrel and applied another coat of Birchwood Casey Rust Inhibitor on the bands and the barrel. Still can't believe how well it turned out for a first timer!
Still have a few more things to finish, like the trigger guard, install the spring clip for the ramrod, and misc. odds and ends. I'm really trying not to jump around and get in too much of a hurry! I see the end of the build and really want to get out and shoot it.
I'm pretty lucky as for a "range". I fly model aircraft (F3A Masters class) and at our flying field we have permission to target shoot. We're backed up with a mountain behind us and have a nice pistol and rifle range for club members. Very convenient. I think the model building skills helped a bit with this project...
I installed the rear sight on the barrel and applied another coat of Birchwood Casey Rust Inhibitor on the bands and the barrel. Still can't believe how well it turned out for a first timer!
Still have a few more things to finish, like the trigger guard, install the spring clip for the ramrod, and misc. odds and ends. I'm really trying not to jump around and get in too much of a hurry! I see the end of the build and really want to get out and shoot it.
I'm pretty lucky as for a "range". I fly model aircraft (F3A Masters class) and at our flying field we have permission to target shoot. We're backed up with a mountain behind us and have a nice pistol and rifle range for club members. Very convenient. I think the model building skills helped a bit with this project...
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Nice plane. I do rc tanks. Love my Radiomaster TX16S. What radio do you use? Wayyy off topic. Sorry.
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Here y'are -original browned barrel and barrel bands -
Apologies for posting offending image of a S*i*e* lock conversion.
This is a Short Rifle - it appears to have a different finish, more like a kind of blueing...
Modern take - Parker-Hale Whitworth and Musketoon -
Apologies for posting offending image of a S*i*e* lock conversion.
This is a Short Rifle - it appears to have a different finish, more like a kind of blueing...
Modern take - Parker-Hale Whitworth and Musketoon -
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LOL! No worries. I use a Futaba 16s. I run the SBUS system. Which is way more a pain in the butt than it is worth. The F3A, or Pattern class is regulated to 5000 grams in weight, all in. And a 2 meter length and width. Considering that I am flying a 10s, 5000 mAh battery system with a counter rotating gearbox for the propellers, I needed to save weight where possible. Mine weighs in at 4987 grams with the flight pack. That set up gets me 8 minutes of air time with 1 minute of reserve.
Then there is my IMAC plane: 120cc two stroke twin, 108" wing span. Doing typically the same sequence maneuvers but with a "scale" model.
F3A to IMAC is like comparing a scalpel to a butcher knife. They both will get the job done, just one is less messy.
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I guess I need to get out more. I didn't realize the "Browning" was an option. Frankly, not sure if I like it on this gun. I've seen YouTube videos on how to do it, but they were all flintlocks and octagonal barrels.
The nose cap, butt plate and trigger guard are done. I have now found something I do not like doing....
