Traditions Kentucky Pistol

[Claycow]

Yea its thick. Will sand paper work or do i need metal sand paper...if there is such a thing.

Crazy where this adventure is taking me,I googled flintlock repair, found a bunch where people have parts and have lots of pistols. I emailed one to see if they would sell one cheaper disassembled and unstained. Whenever my lmf browning comes in, ill be doing that to the barrel. But if the flintlock assembly comes unblued, is that hard to do? I dont know how id remove the rust from all the crevices

 

[Claycow]

Wood file and steel file...can I use steel on wood?

 

[Trot]

I would start with a file if you have to remove a lot of metal from the nose cap, but stop short of your final shape because there will be a lot of smoothing out the file marks. I am a bit confused on the flintlock assembly you mention, isn't your pistol a percussion?

 

[Claycow]

Hehe. My mind is jumping, im going to eventually buy a flintlock pistol. Right now all I have are percussions. But, to save myself the hassle of buying two, can I just buy a steel file set and use that on wood? For finer filing/sanding, id use sandpaper. That should work right?

 

[Claycow]

Well, called up traditions as I just realized I can't use a screw near the trigger area due to the collapsed hole. I don't have a bolt that goes down that deep.

Guy told me to send him pics, we'll see what he does. I hope I can just keep this wooden stock and somehow hodgepodge something else together someday. I don't think it worth the company's money and time to pay me to send this back. But I also don't know what to expect as it was only $175. Maybe they'll tell me to screw off, who knows.

 

[pondoro]

I've got that same gun bought used, it was not a kit. I had to enlarge one of the holes in the wood so the screw would fit. The gun was assembled when I got it but would not reassemble, the holes in the wood looked just like yours.

My metal is not proud of the wood but there is a gap between the metal and wood at the cap. Someday I will pin the barrel and cast a pewter nosecap.

To polish the brass you should go file- 100 - 240 - 330 - 600 - 1000 - buff, but it will not stay shiny unless you lacquer it.

 

[Grizzly Adams]

Your average metal file is not gonna do much other than make noise when used on wood. At the very least, get a decent metal file or two, and a decent wood rasp. Even one of those 4 in hand rasps will work adequately. :hatsoff:

 

[Claycow]

Got it. Thanks.

Another question for the crowd if no one minds answering. Ive been looking at the riflesshoppe. Apparently they sell pistol kits, for a hefty price. Their kits with the flintlocks disassembled aer about $150 cheaper, a fine motivation to learn how to assemble one myself. Is it hard to assemble?

From the pictures i've seen, it looks like you just screw together a bunch of things. Doesn't seem too hard, am I mistaken?

 

[Trot]

You are very much mistaken! Assembling a lock is a very tricky thing. There are holes to drill in the proper location then they must be tapped, pieces filed and fitted, parts must be hardened and tempered, the lock must be tuned. Definitely not for the amateur, or even a more experienced hobbyist builder. Definitely for the pro! The rifle shoppe kits are nothing like what you are used to either, there is drilling tapping inletting, cutting dovetails, major stock shaping, fitting breeechplug, quite a project. They are more a collection of rough parts than a kit like you are used to.

 

[Claycow]

Hmm, I was under the impression (just my own assumption I made) that these parts
http://www.therifleshoppe.com/catalog_pages/english_pistols/(568).htm

would come with pre drilled and I guess all I would have to do is tune the thing once I assembled it. I'm guessing im wrong? Time to invest in some metal files and drill press?

I'm guessing this is like TOW and these kits would require 100+ hours?

 

[Trot]

Yup, if you look they say a "set of lock castings" which means exactly that, just a set of rough cast parts that need to be filed, fitted, hardened etc. Yes these "kits" are at least the level of track of the wolf and so on for difficulty. check out this page http://www.therifleshoppe.com/general_product_information.htm

 

[Claycow]

Hehe, what is this, part gunsmith, part blacksmith???

Hardening doesn't seem to be tooo hard, but tapping and filing without another one to outline the drawing against would result in disaster on my end. I guess when I saw the

"Our stocks are pre-shaped and in-letted for all parts with the exception of very small parts like band springs and some of the fancy side plates and thumb pieces. They are cut to almost exact size leaving just enough for sanding. Forearms are pre-shaped and in-letted."

I figured the lock assembly would be the same. But I guess not!

Ill have to go with the assembled lock if I go this route, i'm half tempted to buy the assembly line version for $350. But then there would be no sense of satisfaction.

 

[Claycow]

I received my LMF Browning. Im going to try and brown my barrel, however I am missing a wooden dowel to seal off one end of the barrel. Any alternatives anyone can think of? And how does one find a wooden dowel which fits perfectly?

 

[necchi]

And how does one find a wooden dowel which fits perfectly?

Find a stick,, and whittle on it. :idunno:

 

[Claycow]

Gah i figured as such. So i can out it on one end of the barrel. Am i trying to seal the barrel so that no moisture gets in? There are 2 screw holes on the end that is blocked off and i believe 2 tiny holes on the other end too. Am i supoosed to somehow seal those?

 

[Claycow]

Im looking through rifleshoppe. The prices on a musket is only about 200$ more than a pistol : /

Though i want pistols, its almost not worth it

 

[Crewdawg445]

Don't be relying on traditions to fix things for you. There is a reason these kits are so inexpensive to purchase... Doesn't mean it won't produce a fine firearm, that part is completely up to you. Keep in mind you have a kit, wood and metal will never fit or line up on their own unless you make it happen. Take the manufacturing issues out of your kit, study the issue, think about a solution, then apply that solution to the issue! :thumbsup:

 

[Claycow]

No really, I did that. I went out side, found a stick, and rammed it in the barrel.

The wooden dowel is to keep the LMF Browning agent from getting in right? Not the moisture of the room itself?

 

[Crewdawg445]

And how does one find a wooden dowel which fits perfectly?

Find a stick,, and whittle on it. :idunno:

:rotf:

 

[Joshsimonswvu]

I whittle wine corks and mash them in.