I wanted to say thanks again for all the help! I took the lock and trigger off, and noticed that the trigger mechanism had some minor surface rust and lots of grime”¦I cleaned and lubed everything up, got all the parts moving smoothly, and re-assembled”¦no issues now! When I get time to meet up with my experienced friend, I plan to completely disassemble the lock and trigger mechanism, clean off any burrs, etc., and grease it up. We did this last year with my TC Hawken and it was a night and day difference!
I took my traditions Pennsylvania out to the range last evening”¦shooting from the bench at 25 yards, I had all six shots (except one) within two inches of the bull. They were all high at 25 yards”¦I was using 60 grains of FFF. I solved the issue of my cheek getting hit with the stock by bracing the rifle above my bicep. I had a few issues during my last couple shots with the powder on the pan sparking but not my charge. Is there a preferred touch hole liner I should look into using?
Again, I’m a “novice” but have had the opportunity to shoot with some experienced people over the past couple years, and everyone I spoke with had their own shooting (loading/cleaning) techniques. From what I learned from them, on this forum, and in books; my current steps following a shot include;
Run a TC pre-saturated cleaning patch followed by a dry patch. Insert a pick in my touch hole, add powder (currently using 60 grains”¦down from 80”¦I want to practice with a white tail deer load and was told 60 grains would do the trick), insert a ball with a pillow ticking patch that I saturated with yellow bore butter. I then use FFFF in the pan, knock the side of the gun so some priming powder enters the touch hole but not as much as to fill the touch hole”¦I want room for the pan flash to pass through the touch hole and ignite the load. After my shot, I repeat the same process. I’m very open to comments/suggestions.
In response to Crewdawg445, I agree with you. But before I spent $1,000+ on a flintlock, I wanted to make sure I was going to enjoy the sport. My first gun was a $200 TC Hawken, and I did fall victim to the production flinter blues but learned a bunch. The gun was poorly crafted, most of the wood screws were no longer holding in the wood stock, there is a large gap between the barrel (touch hole) and the pan (I needed to fill in the gap with wax), the cock was too short (striking my frizzen to low), and the sights are not tight and need lots of work”¦(I cannot consistantly hit paper at 25 yards...shoots too high...cannot lower my back sight anymore)...I’m also convinced the barrel is bent ;-)!
I was very hesitant to spend another $200 on a production flintlock but figured I could re-sell the gun when I was ready to upgrade. I’m still learning about what type of flintlock that would suite me the best and also fit my persona as a 18th century NE woodsman (longhunter) ”¦at the last rendezvous I attended, I was convinced my next flintlock should be a smoothbore. At this point, I still have no clue as to where to start looking for a “good” flintlock in the $1,000 price range.