Tried and True Danish Oil versus Boiled Linseed Oil finish--question on application

[springfield art]

Love the fiish! It is what I strive for on a project!

Thanks for the mention of Bronze Wool. I never liked steel wool much; I'll try to remember this next time I have to finish something.

 

[tenngun]

They are beautiful, do you use kits or are they scratch built?

There’re kits but like gun kits there’re a base for lots of hand work. They give you the stuff for a raw frame. That then needs to be shaped. Follow up with planks made from thin strips of wood, 1/16 to 1/8 inch thick 1/4 to 1/2 inch wide.
Then metal castings for some parts.
Spars are just dowels one has to cut down to shape
Dead eyes and blocks are provided, but it’s a lot of tiny hand work to get them to work.
They provide little balaying pins, but pin rails are all made out of square stock.
So like a kit gun it’s still a lot of home made work
This one in building
Dead eyes rigged, making ratlines on shrouds
Deal planking
Unrigged foreyard, shaped but just hung.

 

[waksupi]

I think the best traditional finish I ever used was plain beeswax. Rub it all over the stock, and rub off with some old denim. Closest to waterproof I tried of the old finishes, and proved durable and easily touched up.

 

[TDM]

Beautiful workmanship @tenngun

 

[Warren whitley]

What's the opinion on laurel mountain forge permalyn sealer?

 

[TDM]

What's the opinion on laurel mountain forge permalyn sealer?

Jim Kibler recommends it.

 

[TFoley]

Got any before and during photos? I can't believe you made those works of art from stir sticks.

MoW car -

Reefer car -

 

[Codger Craig Wilcox]

Great thread! I have known of Dave Person for many years, mostly through the ALR forum. His fit and finish, and glorious artwork have been an inspiration to me. He almost always posts methods of his work, not just the finished product.

Try as I might, I am absolutely no good at engraving! These old hands are now hampered by the effects of Agent Orange, contracted in 1966, erupting like Vesuvius in 2008, and continuing, like lava flow, to stifle handwork. Whole danged workshop of good and great tools, and my hand shakes so that I can no longer put a chisel in the right place.

But - I still endeavor to follow Dave's lead. Always best to learn from the best.

It has distressed me to see him attacked by an anonymous actor. I hope that such shenanigans will remain in the past.

 

[FlinterNick]

Danish oil by T&T is pretty thin, I’ve used as an initial seal coat before, it does the job well. I recommend I giving it a a day to dry between coats and then finishing with another T&T product.

Thats the one thing about tried and true i don’t like, you really have to use all their products in conjunction, when you’re using more organic substances they don’t work very well with other finishes because of drying and curing times. The tried and true formulas tend to use a lot of bees wax as a main ingredient, which will keep it from working well chemically with other finishes.

I recommend Trie and True Danish Oil with tried and true original finish.

 

[Flintandsteel]

I’ve been building muzzleloaders for over 30 years. That said, when I need advice, I can Dave Person.
Much respect!

 

[Hatman/2nd line]

Hi,
I dabble in other things but mainly just build muzzleloading guns and have contributed to this site for over a decade.

Occasionally, I make cased pistols with the accessories.

And once in a while I dabble in the 17th century.

Nice work Scot!

dave

Got my vote!

 

[oldwood]

This ought to make some folks pucker. I use a penetrating varnish on a new stock. Three days drying , then Polyurethane Gel Varnish. It dry's in one day , providing the penetrating varnish is totally dry. , the first then a second coat of PGV , follow the instructions for application. Wipe in one direction. If you like the depth of the finish , quit. If not , one more coat should render a good depth. Last , and I have no idea how this step works . VERY gently , with a feather touch , 600 grit automobile paint finishing paper , remove all imperfections in the finish. Once the imperfections are gone , lightly wipe the finish with penetrating varnish to remove any sanding dust . Been using this method for 20+ yrs. , with success. It seems to have much more weather resistance , than all the BLO varnishes. I experimented with all the usual linseed oil based varnishes , and watched them wash off my gunstock in rainy weather. ..........oldwood