fantasticHey, Guys, I build railroad cars out of coffee-stirrers - does that count for anything?
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fantasticHey, Guys, I build railroad cars out of coffee-stirrers - does that count for anything?
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Most of my customers like a matte finishWhich glossines(?) version do you use? Do you use the gloss version for everything, and then rub it down to a satin finish if desired?
No....Dude.A bit snarky, aren't we?
Nice work, Appalachian, but getting your panties in a twist and attacking a respected, well established member doesn't reflect well.
As I've already explained it's been 30 years since I built a traditional muzzleloader. Yes, I have pictures of finished gunstocks using my BLO method, but last I checked folks get fussed at for posting non traditional firearms here.Very nice WIP photographs. Do you happen to have any of finished gun stocks using an oil finish?
Hi,
I dabble in other things but mainly just build muzzleloading guns and have contributed to this site for over a decade.
Got any before and during photos? I can't believe you made those works of art from stir sticks.
Beautiful work! Where did you learn to engrave so well?Hi,
I dabble in other things but mainly just build muzzleloading guns and have contributed to this site for over a decade.
Occasionally, I make cased pistols with the accessories.
And once in a while I dabble in the 17th century.
Nice work Scot!
dave
well, Dave it is plain to see that if you keep practicing you will be able to produce an acceptable product someday!Hi,
I dabble in other things but mainly just build muzzleloading guns and have contributed to this site for over a decade.
Occasionally, I make cased pistols with the accessories.
And once in a while I dabble in the 17th century.
Nice work Scot!
dave
Your work is on a level that the greater majority of builders can only dream about. I have never engraved any metal but your work is exquisite. Your ability is varied, mine not so much. I do like my finished product to look nice but find everything I do I find fault with? I am not a rifle builder mostly furniture although I have put kits together for a few people and work on rifles/pistols. I don't have the time nor talent to turn out work as complex as yours. As far as other people showing pictures of their work, good luck! After seeing your work I doubt many will post pictures. LOL!Hi,
When someone posts a method and implies it is "THE" way to do something, be skeptical. There are always multiple ways to do any task and meet any objective. I also wish that folks describing their favorite stains and finishes would post photos of their work. That way readers can judge if the methods fit their needs. I've used many different finishing products over the years but homed in on 2 based on my experience. Both use tung oil. The first is 25% raw tung oil, 25% urethane varnish, and 50% mineral spirits. I used this mix while living in SE Alaska because I could not easily get polymerized tung oil, my favorite finish, and developed an excellent alternative that was more readily available. It stood up very well to the harsh conditions of rain, salt air, and sea spray encountered during hunting in that environment. My second and favorite finish is Sutherland-Wells polymerized tung oil. I use it because it can match the appearance of any original finish, which were mostly linseed oil and copal varnish mixes, but has superior weather resistance to linseed-based finishes and it does not darken over time. Tung oil is ancient and was sometimes referred to in centuries past as "China" oil. I doubt 17th-19th century European and American gun makers ever used it. They used linseed oil, not because it made a great finish, but it was cheap and available. There is also evidence from some Lehigh Valley rifles, that some gun makers sealed stocks first with shellac and then applied linseed oil varnish on top. Anyway, I substitute tung oil for linseed because it has superior qualities and I can make its appearance match any of my objectives. Every stock I finish is a different story because of the serendipitous nature of wood, the species of wood, and my objectives for the appearance of the gun. Sometimes I apply just the finish, sometimes I tint it with oil soluble dyes or alkanet root, some times I apply the finish with sandpaper to create a grain filling slurry on the surface, sometimes I apply a few coats for a low sheen, and sometimes I let finish build up so I can rub it back with rottenstone and create the glassy smooth finishes found on Purdeys and Holland & Hollands . Each stock is different.
dave
Thank you! My interest in guns is now mostly black powder, but I have studied and appreciated for years the work of those that build the “classic” Ruger #1, M98 or other quality bolt rifle. A custom stocked rifle like that is a work of art. I am looking forward to learning some of your guild secrets and apply them to several BP projects that are waiting on me.a lot of guild guys including me want to be helpful. Im not wanting to take my so called "secrets of stock making to my grave". lol
Now thats cool. I find myself looking for likley places to put a G scale track in my yard....thanks for fanning THAT flameHey, Guys, I build railroad cars out of coffee-stirrers - does that count for anything?
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Those ships are amazing. Do you build for museums or just for your own enjoyment?
They are beautiful, do you use kits or are they scratch built?
Interesting. Most ML guns aren't exposed to the raw weather very much. A few days a year for deer, turkey, etc., then carefully stored & cleaned. I don't imagine the stock has to be able to withstand being strapped to a space shuttle, but whatever finish guys like, it's a free country. Thanks for the tip on the Waterlox.One of the best oils I have found to use. Several guild members and myself use it. Also this and the "stop loss bag" one can keep finish in it for a long long time and it wont dry up it's like an IV bag at the hospital. One can get both of these at "woodcraft" on the internet. I hope this helps
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