Trigger and guard placement

[chawbeef]

Hi all. Since my trigger plate is the same length as my guard, I am wondering if I should shorten the plate and fasten the guard at the rear with a screw thru both guard and plate (remove the lug) or cut the plate further forward and leave the lug and pin it.
Also, I think I may have to cut off the front lug as it looks like it will interfere with the tang bolt.
This being my first build I am a little intimidated at this point...............Daniel

 

[jimmy82]

What kind of gun is it for? If I'm correct, it is more acceptable for certain styles to have the trigger guard screwed down, although more rare from what you will commonly see here. Someone else will have to tell you what styles they are though.

Looking at what you have there though, I would vote to trim the trigger plate at much as possible. OR... do a reverse tang bolt from the bottom up if geometry allows. Again, that is more acceptable on certain styles than others. It would pass through the front of the trigger guard, the pin tab would have to go, and it could (should?) pass through the front of the trigger plate on its up to the barrel tang.

If you do the conventional top down tang bolt, and it hits the trigger guard, just drill a little recess for it. You could file the tip of the bolt flush with the bottom of the trigger plate too. Just do this after everything else besides the trigger guard is sorted out, so you have the correct length.

 

[Col. Batguano]

Make the parts fit the style of the gun, rather than the other way around. Many many parts (BP's, TG's, Locks, Lock plates, tangs, etc.) need significant modification before they're correct for the style and ready for installation. In fact, I can't think of a single part of a modern build that's ready for installation as it came right out of the box.

 

[chawbeef]

Make the parts fit the style of the gun, rather than the other way around. Many many parts (BP's, TG's, Locks, Lock plates, tangs, etc.) need significant modification before they're correct for the style and ready for installation. In fact, I can't think of a single part of a modern build that's ready for installation as it came right out of the box.

Thanks for the replies gentlemen. The build has no particular "style". I am winging it as I have never been up close to any long rifles. Just going by photos and most of them are black and white.
If you click on the pic in my original post you should be able to see a few more of the rifle........Daniel

 

[Col. Batguano]

Then give it one of your own that might be in the ball park for the general genre. File sculpt a step in to the TG bow. Do a shape modification to the "stock" PB shape. Just don't go too nuts and do something silly like putting a Bedford lock on a Scottish Snaphaunce stock.

Half the fun of doing a build is doing the research that others building in your school have done (historically) and are doing today.

 

[hawkeye2]

Your photo is impressive in how it clarifies your questions. If everyone who ever asked a question here could post something like that it would be so simple to understand what is being asked and to provide an answer.

 

[JohnN]

Are those triggers going to fit in the bow ?

 

[mah7039]

Here's my 2cents, cut off the extra on both ends of the trigger plate. I'd cut off the front lug on the TG and move it, silver solder it back on. A screw too far from there could run into the ramrod. Happy building!

 

[Obi-Wan Cannoli]

cut off the extra on both ends of the trigger plate. I'd cut off the front lug on the TG and move it, silver solder it back on.

:hatsoff:

 

[chawbeef]

Are those triggers going to fit in the bow ?

I believe so, the back (set) trigger does not have to move much so it can be positioned further back. I could also heat and straiten out the front trigger for more room if need be...........Daniel

 

[frogwalking]

I have not built a Hawken, but your trigger and guard appear to be that type. If so, the front lug is actually intended to be cut into a cylinder, tapped and screwed into a tapped hole drilled in the front of the trigger. Someone with much more knowledge of this type of rifle should chime in. Of course, you could cut off the lug and put a screw into either the wood, or the front trigger plate. These are rather complex parts for a rifle of no particular style, but by all means, build what you want. If you have a slender rifle in mind, this is not the best trigger to use due to its depth.

 

[Zonie]

If the gun is a typical East coast longrifle, normally the two casting gates on the brass trigger guard are fit into slots (mortise's) and pinned with a cross pin to hold the TG in place.

With the Tennessee style, the (usually) iron trigger guard is screwed to the stock with one screw at the front and one screw at the back.

The trigger assembly you bought looks like a Hawken or Tennessee style.
These are typically much longer than the East coast longrifle trigger plates and the rear often extends quite a long distance down the bottom of the wrist.

With the Tennessee, the front of the long trigger plate would be cut off to allow the inletting of the front trigger guard foot.
With the Hawken style, as was mentioned above, the lug on the front of the trigger guard is filed round and threaded. It screws into the front area of the trigger plate.

The East coast longrifles and Tennessee trigger guard feet are inletted into the stock so that only the outer surface stands proud of the wood.
This usually needs a flat bottomed mortise for both of the trigger guards feet.

The Hawken trigger guard stands proud of the bottom of the stock but the style of trigger guard you bought is not a Hawken.

Usually the trigger guard for double set triggers like you have is quite long.
The one you bought looks more like the ones used with single triggers.

Before you get to whacking on either the trigger guard or the trigger plate I suggest that you try to clamp the trigger plate to the bottom of the trigger guard. (Clamp it along side the two casting gates).
Then, try to operate the set triggers to make sure there is enough room for both of them to operate.
This is especially true for the rear trigger.

 

[54ball]

Good catch Zonie. That "English Sporting" single trigger triggerguard looks like it will be tight with double set triggers.

Honestly as I look at it, I don't that combo will work. Can it be made to work? Sure with a lot file work to the trigger guard. Will it look good? probably not.

My advice, bail on the trigger guard, put it away for a later project and buy a new guard big enough for double set triggers or use that guard and a single trigger.

 

[chawbeef]

If the gun is a typical East coast longrifle, normally the two casting gates on the brass trigger guard are fit into slots (mortise's) and pinned with a cross pin to hold the TG in place.

With the Tennessee style, the (usually) iron trigger guard is screwed to the stock with one screw at the front and one screw at the back.

The trigger assembly you bought looks like a Hawken or Tennessee style.
These are typically much longer than the East coast longrifle trigger plates and the rear often extends quite a long distance down the bottom of the wrist.

With the Tennessee, the front of the long trigger plate would be cut off to allow the inletting of the front trigger guard foot.
With the Hawken style, as was mentioned above, the lug on the front of the trigger guard is filed round and threaded. It screws into the front area of the trigger plate.

The East coast longrifles and Tennessee trigger guard feet are inletted into the stock so that only the outer surface stands proud of the wood.
This usually needs a flat bottomed mortise for both of the trigger guards feet.

The Hawken trigger guard stands proud of the bottom of the stock but the style of trigger guard you bought is not a Hawken.

Usually the trigger guard for double set triggers like you have is quite long.
The one you bought looks more like the ones used with single triggers.

Before you get to whacking on either the trigger guard or the trigger plate I suggest that you try to clamp the trigger plate to the bottom of the trigger guard. (Clamp it along side the two casting gates).
Then, try to operate the set triggers to make sure there is enough room for both of them to operate.
This is especially true for the rear trigger.

Thank you Jim. I was concerned that the trigger looked a bit big top to bottom. I thought it would interfere with the sear bar. I think my build is rather slim for it.
Perhaps I will post in the classified section to see if anyone wants to trade triggers with me................Daniel

 

[Herb]

You have to cut those blades down to match the sear depth. Your triggers are made for a Hawken.

 

[Zonie]

General comment directed to no one:

IMO, a good way of thinking is all of the various parts one buys to build a gun should be thought of as "raw material".

Each and every part will need to be modified in some way to work with the rest of the parts.

The thing to keep in mind is, you can't make some raw material do the job needed for all situations so choose your raw parts carefully before you start.

 

[necchi]

The thing to keep in mind is, you can't make some raw material do the job needed for all situations so choose your raw parts carefully before you start.

Yup, that's what I was thinking when I first saw this thread. I wouldn't use the trigger and TG shown together.
Boogaloo;
You had to get those parts from someplace,, maybe you can return/exchange the trigger with the supplier.(you might lose a little $ for shipping) I have exchanged parts with Track of the Wolf a few times even after a year has passed.
If you have to use screws for the TG by all means do so,, it's your build. :wink:

 

[chawbeef]

The thing to keep in mind is, you can't make some raw material do the job needed for all situations so choose your raw parts carefully before you start.

Yup, that's what I was thinking when I first saw this thread. I wouldn't use the trigger and TG shown together.
Boogaloo;
You had to get those parts from someplace,, maybe you can return/exchange the trigger with the supplier.(you might lose a little $ for shipping) I have exchanged parts with Track of the Wolf a few times even after a year has passed.
If you have to use screws for the TG by all means do so,, it's your build. :wink:

Any suggestions on type of trigger to get if I keep the guard?? I bought from TOW.................Daniel

 

[necchi]

can't really, it's always your choice, but the Davis 004 and 006 are popular, I see now they are back ordered at TOW, there's the L&R options also. https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/916/1
Hopefully you have Tracks catalog with the full size photo's to help with fitting/sizing.

 

[frogwalking]

A single trigger is vastly under rated if it is pinned 5/16 inch in front of the sear bar, and high. There is also the option of a single set trigger. The Hawken triggers you have bought are closer together than the normal eastern longrifle triggers.