Tru-Oil or Tung Oil....Help!

[Coltsmoke]

I've been hanging out in the back ground for a while listening and learning. I built a TC Hawkins in the early 80's and have restocked it with a Curly Maple stock. I have done the silver wire inlay and done some carving on it. I've replaced the barrel with a GM barrel and replaced the ram rod.The only thing left that is TC is the hardware. I know the Hawkens was probally not this fancy, all of this was a practice run for a long rifle in the near future.

I've having a hard time deciding which finish to use. I don't think I want a real shinny finish, but I want the wood to be protected and not suck up oil and get dark with age.

Well, I think I done good on the carving and wire inlay for the first time, the AF turned out good. Any suggestions for the finish.

 

[Allan Gray]

Tru oil is great stuff and is more of an "instant" finish. Done properly it will still take some time, allowing each coat to cure for a while in between. The finish is pretty glossy but it can be knocked down with fine steel wool and paste wax after it has cured for a while.

I prefer linseed or tung oil. Takes longer but is more forgiving IMHO.

 

[BadHorse]

i just finished one with true oil, hey i like it.

karwelis

 

[William Joy]

Try Pro custom gunstock finish - I tried a lot of finishes over the years ......this makes a true professional finish

 

[Coltsmoke]

Where can I get this Pro Custom finish? That is a great lookin rifle Karwellis.

 

[BadHorse]

thnax, the pic doesnt do it justice!

karwelis

 

[J.D.]

I've having a hard time deciding which finish to use. I don't think I want a real shinny finish, but I want the wood to be protected and not suck up oil and get dark with age.

Several of the really good builders use a seal coat of permalyn and finish coats of Chambers oil finish.

IMHO, the dual finish is the best of both worlds.

That said, there is nothing wrong with TruOil. It's a good durable finish.

 

[ike]

For what it is worth. I just finished a Golden Age Classic long Rifle from Tradk of the Wolf. Was debating just as you for a finish. Called Brownells in Iowa to order the finish I had chosen. The person who took the order asked what I was going to use it on so I told him my decision process and what I was going to use it on. He told me that he had 30 years experience finishing guns and to have a Good finish and period correct to use 1/3 beas wax, 1/3 gum spirit turpintine and 1/3 boiled linseed oil. You deside how much to make. I did 1/2 cup of each. Heat this in a double boiler and let cool to a paste. Apply to the entire wood surface inside and out. Then apply once a day for a week. Rub it in. Then once a month. I apply again after a weekend of hard use, but I like to keep it looking really good. I am happy with the finish and have had many complements. It is soft and not shiny. Sent me a PM and I will send you pictures.

 

[Zoar]

Good thread.

After I get the color I want, I really like TUNG OIL as my finish. I hand/finger rub a thin layer and really work it in till nearly dry. Let it set over night. Apply about 15-18 layers over the next couple of weeks. Remember very thin layers and hand/finger rub it in. This is not like coating a boat. Then I let the gun sit for a few days to let the Tung Oil cure. Do not rush this.

Finally I take the high gloss shine down with very light rubbing with Rottenstone and Pumice using a drop of water as "lubricant". The gun stocks look like they came out of the 1700-1800's. Not too shiny but deep, rich, modestly shiny finish. After the finish has cured at least a month I then use Perma's Gun Wax and buff with a wheel to keep them looking good and protected.

 

[BadHorse]

For what it is worth. I just finished a Golden Age Classic long Rifle from Tradk of the Wolf. Was debating just as you for a finish. Called Brownells in Iowa to order the finish I had chosen. The person who took the order asked what I was going to use it on so I told him my decision process and what I was going to use it on. He told me that he had 30 years experience finishing guns and to have a Good finish and period correct to use 1/3 beas wax, 1/3 gum spirit turpintine and 1/3 boiled linseed oil. You deside how much to make. I did 1/2 cup of each. Heat this in a double boiler and let cool to a paste. Apply to the entire wood surface inside and out. Then apply once a day for a week. Rub it in. Then once a month. I apply again after a weekend of hard use, but I like to keep it looking really good. I am happy with the finish and have had many complements. It is soft and not shiny. Sent me a PM and I will send you pictures.

hey um why dont you share a couple of pics with the rest of us. isnt that what these forums are for. to show what worked for you, and to help others if they want to try it?

karwelis

 

[rafterob]

I went with the boiled linseed oil-paste wax finish on my last rifle. Not a gloss finish at all. User friendly. It doesn't allow the depth of the grain to show through like a glossier finish will. Personnaly, I like to see that depth-sheen, so my jury is still out on my preferred finish.I had used Tung oil in the past on furniture and it has a long cure time and can be very sticky when not fully cured.Depending on atmospherical conditions, BLO will absorb and be ready to recoat in a day. I probably put on 15 coats to "fill" the grain and 2 coats of wax. I re-wax about every 2 months.

 

[Zoar]

Interesting. I've had the exact opposite experience: BLO stays sticky and has always had real long cure while the Tung Oil I've used dries fast. Warmth and low humidity makes them both dry faster. The other key really is: very, very thin applications, finger rub till almost dry. If you put either on thick the cure and tackiness will remain for sometimes days... (and for me, BLO stays tacky for days no matter what I've done).

I can sometimes get two hand rubbed layers of Tung Oil on in one day. Before I go to work I rub in a layer and set in dry, warm place. When I get home in the evening I hand rub another layer and set in warm area while I sleep. I can get a stock Tung Oil'ed in just over a week that way. Then I let it sit for a few days before the rottenstone and pumice which makes the finish purrfect.

 

[BadHorse]

and still no pics of your results,,,,,,,,hmmmm

karwelis

 

[Zoar]

sorry the ony way i can get pics up her is if someone else posts them for me. I, as many people, don't have the capabilities to post pics directly...

 

[Coltsmoke]

Thanks for all the help guys, it really saves a newbie a lot of time and mistakes. I'll do pictures with the finished rifle.

 

[JOHN L. HINNANT]

Good Evening Coltsmoke,

Tung oil is an excellant finish. I have used it for at least 40 years.

For walnut wood stocks, brush on a light coat of Tung Oil and allow it to soak into the wood. When it becomes "tacky", wipe the stock clean.

Repeat the oil application and wiping clean until the stock refuses to soak up any more tung oil. Allow the last application to dry for 48 hours.

Tru-Oil works very good as a stock filler and is very compatible with Tung Oil.

Apply the Tru-Oil with your finger tips and allow the stock to dry for 36-48 hours. Block sand the stock with 280 grit Wet or Dry abrasive. Keep the abrasive from filling" by sanding wet with a 50/50 mix of Tung Oil and turpentine

It is ok to sand back to the surface of the wood surface. The Tru-Oil with stay in the pores of the wood. Four to six applications of Tru-Oil and block sanding betweeen applications will usually "fill" the pores.

After the last block sanding, finish up with a couple of coats of Tung Oil applied as previously described.

The nice thing about a good oil finish is that it can be easily touched up.

Witin a year or so, the fiish will settled back into the pores of the wood.

Not to worry.

Simply block sand the stock and apply more Tru-Oil to fill the pores, again finishing off with Tung Oil.

This application can be repeated as needed.

Never, Never, Never use linseed oil on walnut. Over a period of time, linseed oil will turn walnut black, be it a stock or a piece of furniture.

Best regards and good shooting,

John L. Hinnant

If you are not an NRA or NMLRA Member, why not? I am carrying your loas.

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[Claude Mathis]

sorry the ony way i can get pics up her is if someone else posts them for me. I, as many people, don't have the capabilities to post pics directly...

If you have images, you can upload them to PhotoBucket.com for free. It takes no additional software and anyone with an Internet connection can do it.

Once they are on PhotoBucket, you can provide a link to them, or make them visible in your post here.

 

[renovato]

I've never gotten the results I want with Tru-oil. The finish always seems to have a modern "plastic" look to it, no matter if I knock down the shine or not. I don't know if this is due to my technique or is the product itself.

Tung oil is easier to get a good finish with in my experience, and the finish is really warm, deep, and makes the grain stand out. It's my favorite finish so far.

I've been tinkering a bit with Jim Chambers stock finish and so far, it's showing a lot of promise. Might be worth considering also.

 

[Goldhunter]

I've tried Tru Oil, Tung Oil, and LMF Permalyn Finish. My GPR has Tru oil on it but I had to hit it hard with steel wool to get the degree shine off I wanted. My Dickert has Permalyn. Still a little shiny, but not like the truoil. This will mellow the more I use the rifle. I can't remember what I put the Tung oil on. :shocked2: :shake: I like it was a powder horn base plug, I was experimenting.

I'd use the LMF sealer and finsh again. But with my new flinter in the works, I'll be experimenting again.

 

[paulvallandigham]

I put this in another thread here, but again, you should thin the Tru-oil with denatured alcohol, 1:4 parts of oil. ( Ie. 20% by volume alcohol, to 80% tru-oil). Then, you need to STRETCH the oil finish on the stock. 10 thin coats are much better than 1 thick coat. When you have it finished to your taste, but want a more matte finish, you can use rottenstone, or pumice- available at paint stores- to knock off the shine to whatever surface you desire.

With oil, you can repair scratches easily, and that is a real advantage for finishes on gunstocks. I like to use a furniture wax on the stock between uses. It protects the finish, even from ultra violet rays, and from dust, and it does off a little resistance from water- both sweat and rain-- that may get on the stock in the field.