TRU-OIL problem

[SPQR70AD]

I’ve used Tru-oil for many stocks over fourth years and have no problems getting a dandy finish. It can be dull to shiny depending on how you apply it. My technique is to thin it with mineral spirits about half. Then apply very thin spreading with the palm of my hand very briefly to flatten it but not to the point of it getting tacky. In an average day it drys fast enough to apply two to three coats a day. If it gets to thick or shiny for the effect I want break it with Scotch Brite pads then tack cloth. A couple of examples,
IMG_0507 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
61F9779D-D402-456B-B8A1-93652CF5142E by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

beautiful work

 

[LME]

I’ve used it for years, thick coats, thin coats, hand rubbed, sprayed on, you name it and I never had it not cure. I even applied it on old surplus military stocks that had gun oil absorbed into the wood that I could not completely remove.

However I agree with the post that said that you are probably applying it over a finish that is not cured. I believe that he said to strip the TruOil you have on the stock and clean it with mineral spirits. I would definitely strip it but would use acetone after that. When I spray TruOil I thin it with naphtha, used to use lacquer thinner but they apparently changed the TruOil formula and it no longer works as a thinner.

Whatever you use, I would take a rather stiff bristle brush and scrub the old finish out of the pores as best as you can and let it dry a day or two before starting again with TcruOil.

You have used thick coats using oil based finishes and it cured? Please tell me how to do it! I have worked with oil based finishes pratically all my life and never could get them to dry? All the oil finishes I have used required very thin layers for me. I use several coats and let them dry between coats and have success !

 

[Old-Duckman]

You have used thick coats using oil based finishes and it cured? Please tell me how to do it! I have worked with oil based finishes pratically all my life and never could get them to dry? All the oil finishes I have used required very thin layers for me. I use several coats and let them dry between coats and have success !

TruOil is not your typical BLO type of finish. I have sprayed on very heavy coats of it and also applied it as heavy as possible by hand. I do have a drying box but it simply accelerates curing time it is not magic. My drying box consists of a chipboard box that will hold about 4 rifle stock safely without concern for them bumping into each other. I'd post a photo but I am at work at the moment. I have lined the box with Styrofoam insulation and my "heating element" is a 100 watt light bulb. I have put more than one coat on in a 24 hour period, even when sprayed on.

You sound incredulous but I have used that product and my drying box for literally decades and have NEVER had a problem with TruOil not curing...Believe it or not!

 

[R Ellis]

Maybe what you think is a thin coat is really a thick coat for Truoil .By that let me tell you that I dip one finger into the bottle and do most of the stock sometimes all of it depending on how long the stock is I may dip my finger again to finish . After the first coat the rest of the coats take less of the finish than the first . You have to find the method that works for you but do not use much at a time .

 

[MAC1967]

While I've used the bottle many times. . . I kind of prefer True Oil in a spray can because it seems to go on thinner. It's hard to be patient in this last and fun stage. . . letting it fully dry is key. I usually don't do more than two coats. . . and I cut them both back with a scotch pad to a dull finish. True oil works best in the summer - ha !!

 

[Old-Duckman]

I haven’t been able to get the spay can version for a while. As stated, I do spray TruOil (thinned with naphtha using an airbrush) but the old cans did put a very thin coat (which would run very easily if put on even a little too heavy). I would use the cans if the person I was finishing the stock for wanted a high gloss finish. It would be my final coat and as long as it was a dust free application, it produced a very nice high gloss finish (if you like that, personally I don’t) but “to each his own “.

It left a slight orange peel effect immediately after spraying but leveled out quite nicely upon curing.

Do you know a current source for TruOil in a spray can?

 

[LME]

TruOil is not your typical BLO type of finish. I have sprayed on very heavy coats of it and also applied it as heavy as possible by hand. I do have a drying box but it simply accelerates curing time it is not magic. My drying box consists of a chipboard box that will hold about 4 rifle stock safely without concern for them bumping into each other. I'd post a photo but I am at work at the moment. I have lined the box with Styrofoam insulation and my "heating element" is a 100 watt light bulb. I have put more than one coat on in a 24 hour period, even when sprayed on.

You sound incredulous but I have used that product and my drying box for literally decades and have NEVER had a problem with TruOil not curing...Believe it or not!

I have used a lot of oil based finishes but I must say I have never used TruOil? I mostly use Danish Oil but I don't think it is the best or the worst. As I said in my previous post I apply a thin coat and then wipe it off. I generally put at least four coats on this way but I look for the look if three coats Fine if six coats fine? I am now courious at to the make up of TruOil?

 

[labrat]

Yep! I believe it's a result of not allowing it to dry out completely. The coats that I applied were put on thinly. I just finished a rifle using Tried & Tru with 8 coats and it come out beautiful with no drying problems. I turned to Tru Oil because it sounded so much easier to work with and faster than Tried & Tru. What a mistake that was! I thought the solution may be bad but I tested it on a piece of metal and it dried correctly in a couple hours. So it was something I did. Anyway Thank You all for your imput. I will wait to see if it dries and if not I'll start over........labrat