Newbie builder here with a quick question. I am putting together a CVA Kentuky pistol kit. I have done two light coats of stain and two hand rubbed coats of Tru Oil (Steel Wool Inbetween all coats) How many coats of Tru Oil are needed for a good durable finish. It looks good right now but I want it to stand up to use not just be pretty.
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Tru Oil ?
- Thread starter madbrad
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John Vaccaro
32 Cal.
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Keep adding coats until the grain is filled. A walnut stock may take 8-10 coats. Maple or fruit wood 4-6. Tru Oil is a good finish and can be repaired easily. John :applause:
JOHN L. HINNANT
45 Cal.
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Good Morning MadBrad,
I have found Tru-oil to be a good finish and easy to work with, but seems to give little penetration into the wood.
I prefer to use a good Tung Oil first to penetrate into the wood and then finish off with Tru-Oil. Both being oil base, they are compatible.
If you have only two or three applications of Tru-Oil on your stock, it is not too late to use the Tung Oil.
Best regards and good shooting,
John L. Hinnant
If you are not an NRA or NMLRA Member, why not? I am carrying your load.
I have found Tru-oil to be a good finish and easy to work with, but seems to give little penetration into the wood.
I prefer to use a good Tung Oil first to penetrate into the wood and then finish off with Tru-Oil. Both being oil base, they are compatible.
If you have only two or three applications of Tru-Oil on your stock, it is not too late to use the Tung Oil.
Best regards and good shooting,
John L. Hinnant
If you are not an NRA or NMLRA Member, why not? I am carrying your load.
I like using a grain filler with open grained woods like walnut. Some find the True oil to be a bit glossy. I have used Birchwood Casey's Stock Shean and Conditioner in the past to nock down a bit of the shine.Some use 0000 steal wool. Just don't be in a hurry, give the finish some time to cure. Jim
I, like Stone Bridge use Stock Shean to remove some of the glossyness off of the Tru-Oil topcoat.
Oddly enough, you have to be careful with Stock Shean because if you get too enthusiastic you will end up with a smooth high gloss finish like you started with.
Putting it another way, when used on a hardened Tru-Oil finish, used lightly, it dulls the high gloss finish. Bear down and rub hard and it creates a high gloss finish.
As for Tru-Oil, I like it, but then, I like deep transparent finishes that look like a pure clear stream where you can see every little detail on the bottom.
I do not like my stocks to look like damp wood which is typical of the finish obtained from using just 2 or 3 coats of linseed or tung oil.
I also don't like finishes or stains that mask or cover the woods grain which is one of many reasons I do not use oil base stains.
Oddly enough, you have to be careful with Stock Shean because if you get too enthusiastic you will end up with a smooth high gloss finish like you started with.
Putting it another way, when used on a hardened Tru-Oil finish, used lightly, it dulls the high gloss finish. Bear down and rub hard and it creates a high gloss finish.
As for Tru-Oil, I like it, but then, I like deep transparent finishes that look like a pure clear stream where you can see every little detail on the bottom.
I do not like my stocks to look like damp wood which is typical of the finish obtained from using just 2 or 3 coats of linseed or tung oil.
I also don't like finishes or stains that mask or cover the woods grain which is one of many reasons I do not use oil base stains.
amccall
40 Cal.
I like using a wood sealer with maple. The staining job looks better and I need less tru-oil for the finish that I like. Also helps lessen the wood from expanding / contracting with hummidity change. :v
